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Foxconn Mobo Repair *Completed, and it works!* - Page 3

post #21 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming;12613743 
I went to badcaps and those guys are a we bit more pricey than what I'm use to and they did not even have one of the caps I need in stock frown.gif

I understand people have to mark up the products to make a profit but at what point would it be to much money for me to spend on trying to repair a board that I don't know works. Does any one have any other cheaper alternatives for getting hard to find Capacitors for mobo's like the DFI Lanparty NF4 SLI DR Expert?

I found a place that carries cheaper and same specifications sizes and all but they are not the same exact KZG caps that came on the Expert mobo.

Oh wow, I so have a habbit of pirating a thread for my own benefit wink.gif j/k

All jokes aside I'm really not trying to hijack the thread but get some info and possibly give some if at all possible.

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw/
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post #22 of 35
Great job on the repairs Hydraulic. I was never ever able to get the solder suckers to work for me either.

Thanks for the info guys.
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post #23 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming View Post
I was never ever able to get the solder suckers to work for me either.
Were you using the squishy-bulb type OR the sprung-lock-vacuum type?


I prefer (and have great success with) the locking vacuum cylinder type... the trick is to get the solder hot enough to go molten whilst having the device's tip as close as possible to the liquefied solder (you get pretty close hence the spare tip included), to help "speed up" the melting process add a touch more solder as it will help transfer a greater amount of heat in a shorter period (you don't want to cook nearby components)
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post #24 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by ()ut[@st View Post
Were you using the squishy-bulb type OR the sprung-lock-vacuum type?


I prefer (and have great success with) the locking vacuum cylinder type...
this type spring valve..
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post #25 of 35
epic 590 reference board there.

good work with the fix
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post #26 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiHydrogenMonOxide View Post
Yeah, RoHS solder is pain to de-solder. That is what most (if not all) mainstream electronics use. It is lead-free and therefore needs more temperature to flow.
I guess that is what I was experiencing, it took forever to flow, and even longer to even get the cap out. But it was successful, so I am stoked

Quote:
Originally Posted by N2Gaming View Post
Great job on the repairs Hydraulic. I was never ever able to get the solder suckers to work for me either.
I guess its more because of what DHMO said, that the RoHS solder takes more to make it flow, it also cools even faster and you have even less of a gap to pull the trigger on that thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ()ut[@st View Post
Were you using the squishy-bulb type OR the sprung-lock-vacuum type?
I had the spring lock vacuum one, I think its in one of the pics up there. The first time I used it I kept thinking of one of those needle things that you use to draw blood...

Quote:
Originally Posted by reflex99 View Post
epic 590 reference board there.

good work with the fix
Thanks, I am looking forward to making something of it, but what I do not know yet. Is the FX series sought after much nowadays, or is it pretty much worthless?
post #27 of 35
FX procs carry nostalgic value.

Owning a proc with a $1000 MSRP feels good.....

Also worth a lot of points on HWbot
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post #28 of 35
Thread Starter 
So could that do something to help our HWbot team?
post #29 of 35
if you are good at benching, yes....

if not, probably no....
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post #30 of 35
Thread Starter 
Just installed windows 7 on it and its working great!
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