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Drain Line help - Page 2

post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlxxxsracer View Post
After reading this.. has me slightly concerned about my setup- still in the process of building though.
Heres a pic- the left out with go to the drain and to the right is the rad. The bottom of the pump is the out port
That is essentially the same thing i was going to do as well. I'm not really sure why that would cause a flow issue though. I've seen other people with 90 degree on pump outlet, and a T would basically be the same thing once the drain line fills creating only one path for the water to flow. But, correct me if I'm wrong.
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post #12 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post
new plan. pump>90 degree male-male>BP Y-Block with one drain line and one line to pump

my only concern is the 90 degree male-male. in title it says g1/4 to ig1/4 and in the description it says one end has the thread and the other has a comp fitting? and in the picture it looks like it has g1/4 threads on both ends
Definitely go by the definition not the picture, and don't hesitate to call/email to confirm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post
That is essentially the same thing i was going to do as well. I'm not really sure why that would cause a flow issue though. I've seen other people with 90 degree on pump outlet, and a T would basically be the same thing once the drain line fills creating only one path for the water to flow. But, correct me if I'm wrong.
That setup will work for a drain, but remember that it will be highly pressurized right there after the pump so make sure it seals well, the battery or sharpie stopper won't work You might see a small reduction in flow, but not much more than the 90 would add anyway.

Edit:
@Tlxxxs, I'd add a T and drain behind your HDD cages in that long tubing run, just turn the case on it's back and then that becomes the lowest point. It will solve the flow issues that might occur under the pump.

@OP, I'd try to find a different place if you can, but it's not absolutely crucial.
Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 3/5/11 at 12:10pm
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post #13 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post
That setup will work for a drain, but remember that it will be highly pressurized right there after the pump so make sure it seals well, the battery or sharpie stopper won't work You might see a small reduction in flow, but not much more than the 90 would add anyway.
I was planning on leaving 6-12" of lead for the drain line and plug it with a BP 1/2" barb plug squeezed in 7/16" tube, and maybe a zip tie for safe measure
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post #14 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post
I was planning on leaving 6-12" of lead for the drain line and plug it with a BP 1/2" barb plug squeezed in 7/16" tube, and maybe a zip tie for safe measure
I'd really suggest moving it elsewhere in the loop if you could, just because the turbulence will hurt flow, and add viscous (not vicious) restriction. Anywhere would be fine, even having the T before the pump as a combo fill/drain is fine as long as you can easily tilt the case to drain.
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post #15 of 21
Thread Starter 
Or would cutting the line to the rad behind the mobo tray and sticking this in there with the T line being the drain
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post #16 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post
Or would cutting the line to the rad behind the mobo tray and sticking this in there with the T line being the drain
That's what I'd do personally.

Edit: I'd actually use this, otherwise you need to get barbs to go with the block too.
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post #17 of 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltwaterCooled View Post
That's what I'd do personally.

Edit: I'd actually use this, otherwise you need to get barbs to go with the block too.
No way, I'm staying away from plastic fittings. I'll fork out the extra $ for the barbs. I mean, what's another $8 when you're already spending $400
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post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post
No way, I'm staying away from plastic fittings. I'll fork out the extra $ for the barbs. I mean, what's another $8 when you're already spending $400
It's your money I don't have any problem with the plastic, it hasn't had any issues with deterioration or anything and it's not really that visible.
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post #19 of 21
+1 cars & motorcycles use plastic in cooling and efi systems. Cooling runs 3x the temp computer wc loops run + up to 14 psi. Efi systems run 3.5 to 4.5 bar, which starts around 45 psi.

I feel most comfortable with long barbed fittings and hose clamps keeping everything tight. If it keeps the water in on the race track in 115 degree desert heat, it's going to be fine in my desk.
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post #20 of 21
don,t know if it is right
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