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post #11 of 34
Not to derail this thread, but Yeah I am still fairly new to these forums I saw he has a high rep rating I just wanted to know if my thinking was along the right path and if he had any info so I could see why he gave the response he did. As i stated i always like to learn new things and i like graphs for this reason.
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post #12 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arksniper View Post
As i stated i always like to learn new things and i like graphs for this reason.
Here is martins page. If you want water cooling information it is the place to go.
 
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post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all your help guys. I will spread some rep around.

So I take it I can't go SLI with it like this. It has been on for the past 13 hours and the flow indicator is now starting and stopping. It just looks pathetic. What pump would you guys recommend? That would work where I have my MCP655-B now. I have the original box and everything and the pump is only maybe 3 months old. I can sell it on eBay and get a new one and not be out much money.

Sorry for poor quality picture I just got home from a 12 hour day of work and I am to lazy/tired to take a good one.
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post #14 of 34
You could consider an aftermarket pump top, that may add some needed pump performance.
    
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post #15 of 34
Something else is wrong with your loop, there's no way a D5 should be struggling to circulate that loop. I'd drain it and check for a possible obstruction somewhere; you shouldn't have the flow stopping and starting unless something is clogged or wrong with your pump. Are you sure it's connected securely to the PSU and perhaps test it with only the bay res to see how the flow rate is then? It could be that the spinner in the res is sticking for some reason too.
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post #16 of 34
Thread Starter 

-Took faceplate off and impeller spins free. Tightened it back down it still spins free.
-Attached Pump > Res >Pump and it looks like this video when he first turns the pump on...


I think I might get the one with the speed controller. I think setting 5 would be enough unless you guys think another pump would be better.

I am going to have to agree with Martin my Rads are restrictive.

Is there any hard mod to get this thing moving at setting 5?

Edit: Also Hardware Monitor says the pump is moving at 4218 - 4326 RPM
Edited by ChaosBlades - 3/7/11 at 9:49am
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post #17 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by yusky03 View Post
-Attached Pump > Res >Pump and it looks like this video when he first turns the pump on...
I think I might get the one with the speed controller. I think setting 5 would be enough unless you guys think another pump would be better.

I am going to have to agree with Martin my Rads are restrictive.

Is there any hard mod to get this thing moving at setting 5?

Edit: Also Hardware Monitor says the pump is moving at 4218 - 4326 RPM
The rads aren't (shouldn't be unless there's something wrong) restrictive enough to choke flow off completely. They may be more restrictive than other rads, but it's still at the small end of the restriction spectrum. There probably is a way to add a potentiometer to the pump PCB, but it's not really worth it- even at 4 it's still moving enough water. If it looks like the video you should be all set.
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post #18 of 34
Thread Starter 
Flow is not choked off completely. There is sufficient flow according to Martin. The flow indicator is just moving very slowly maybe 1 rotation a second.

I blew out all the water by blowing on one end of the loop and I did have to put a bit of pressure behind it even when all the water was gone.

When I first built my loop I took both Rads and cleaned them out. Unless there is an internal manufacturing error they are clean of debris.

It only looked like the video when it was only pump and res connected.

My concern is that I was about to go SLI. If I won a ebay auction a few days ago I would already have another GTX 470 on my loop.
Edited by ChaosBlades - 3/7/11 at 12:10pm
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post #19 of 34
Before you change anything, I would at least recommemd doing an informal flow rate check. Use a 5 gallon bucket or a 2 liter bottle.

I kind of like the redundancy of two pumps in series, but I wouldn't suggest that until you at least did a rough flow check. The EK spinner could just not be very sensetive. Then you would be spending $80 for no measurable gain. If you want to upgraade pumping power, just don't do for big performance gains. At one point I had three loops in one system and as a side experiment strung the whole mess one one pump and the temperature was basically the same +- a couple of degrees.

I would only do it for fun or so you can see the spinner moving faster. I had three loops so I could run three different fluid colors..I feel better that I've tried that now..
    
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post #20 of 34
Thread Starter 

Its just not the spinner the waterfall is a little more than a trickle. The spinner is very sensitive. I was actually surprised how sensitive it was when I was playing around with it when I had the faceplate off this morning and the pumps performance with the the res seemed correct according to the video I posted if it was at setting 4 when he started the video. I would love to buy another pump and put it in series but I just don't have the room in my HAF 922.

This is what it should look like. No? My 'waterfall' only makes it half way across the top channel.

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