Originally Posted by yusky03
That is not my rig ^_^ I tried to take a video to show you guys but 720p or not Cell phones take horrible videos.
I will just get the MCP655 with speed control and set it to 5. I can sell my pump on eBay for at least $60.
Edit: The water line isn't even moving lol. It is spinning a lot slower than it looks.
Based on that pic, it looks like you still have some air in your loop to be honest. One of the things I've noticed with the EK spin bays is that you can't have the top off while it's running as the waterfall pulls air into your system, and undoes a lot of the bleeding work you've put into it.
Fill the res to the top, screw on the fill port tightly (I go a quarter turn tighter than "finger tight" with the allen key) and turn the pump on. Gently tilt your case towards you, away from you, and up on it's ends. If you put a drop of dish soap into your res, you should start to see any large bubbles that were trapped in your radiators slowly starting to move their way down towards your pump. Patience is the name of the game when coaxing these buggers out.
Once you have enough bubbles out, you should notice the level of the water in your res slowly start to drop. I tend to refill it once it's below the EK logo, but I don't fill it all the way after that point as I like the looks of the waterfall effect. Tighten the cap again, and turn it back on. It tends to take me about 2-3 hours to get all of the major bubbles out, and you'll still occasionally hear them getting sheered to pieces by your pump for the next few days.
Martin's a wealth of knowledge too, so I'd definitely look into what he has to say if you're positive that you don't have a trapped air problem.
Edit: I have an MCP 655 set to 5, but while leak testing, I did change speeds to see the effect on flow. Even at a setting of "3", the indicator still moves quite quickly once all of the air has been bled out. From what I remember, the 655B is set to 4?Edited by HAF_wit - 3/7/11 at 5:43pm