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computer sound equalizer - Page 3

post #21 of 60
Thread Starter 
I have checked all the cards and none of them say they include an equalizer.
post #22 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonR399;12674500 
I have checked all the cards and none of them say they include an equalizer.

Preset.png

Happy now.
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2nd Gig
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post #23 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simca;12674807 
Preset.png

Happy now.

wow!

I wonder why they do not say anything about it in their specs?
post #24 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonR399;12672507 
ok. I am nervous about going into the BIOS.
I will think about it.

thanks
You're welcome. But there is nothing to be nervous about, especially if you have the manual for the motherboard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonR399;12672507 
what sound card would you advise? I would want it to have all the software included, including an equalizer.
The drivers for all of the commonly-recommended sound cards have a Graphic EQ as well as other useful adjustments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EduFurtado;12672649 
/* off topic *

When I saw this thread under the latest discussions a picture popped up in my mind of a reply, right after OP from a guy named two cables with a picture of two cables as avatar answering OP's questions.

* off topic */
lol redface.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonR399;12672653 
no eq for the mobo sound, just volume.

M3A78-CM ASUS MOBO
It won't be in the Windows control panel, but it would be in the the software that controls the driver. For example: the Xonar DX Audio Center is software that gets installed along with the driver for the Xonar DX sound card so that the user can make adjustments.

So it could be in the Start Menu somewhere.

But if you really don't have it, then let's continue pursuing a sound card. And actually, I think you'd be happier with a sound card anyway because you'll have noticeably better audio quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonR399;12672727 
so, can use a sound card without going into the BIOS?
Absolutely. But I figure that it's best to disable the onboard audio because after all, what are the chances you'll be using it along with the sound card? Obviously, some people do use both at the same time for specific reasons, but most people don't need both. I most certainly don't. smile.gif

So if you won't need the onboard audio after getting a sound card, then do this before putting the sound card in:
  1. Uninstall everything related to the onboard audio from within Windows. If you see absolutely nothing for it in the control panel ("Add or Remove Programs" in XP, or "Programs and Features" in Vista and 7), then open Device Manager.
    1. If you have to go into Device Manger, then expand Sound, video and game controllers
    2. Right-click the entry for your onboard audio
    3. Choose "Uninstall"
    4. In the box that appears, enable "Delete the driver software for this device"
    5. Click OK
  2. Reboot when prompted
  3. Press Del during the Power-On-Self-Test (or "POST") to enter the BIOS
  4. Once you're in the BIOS, press the right arrow key to enter the Advanced menu
  5. Press the down arrow 3 times to select Onboard Devices Configuration
  6. Press Enter to go into it
  7. I don't know what this area looks like, but look for HDAudio Controller.
  8. When you find it, change its setting to Disabled
  9. Press F10 to save and exit at the same time (it will ask you if you're sure, so say yes because now you're done with the BIOS)
  10. When it begins going through the POST again, turn the system off using the power button on your computer's case (you may need to hold the power button for 5 seconds)
  11. Put the sound card in
  12. Make absolutely certain that it is in all the way and that it's in perfectly straight - especially if it's a PCI card. I mean, a PCI-E card has a smaller interface, so it'll be easier to achieve a perfect insertion.
  13. Turn the system on, let Windows load, and install the sound card's software and driver
  14. Reboot when prompted and then you'll be off and running to do what you want to do with it

Now, my personal sound card recommendation is the X-Fi XtremeGamer (the one that has the smaller PCB - the one that looks like it's a Low-Profile card). This is because I tried the Xonar D1 (the PCI version of the DX) in two different motherboards (an EVGA 680i SLI and the EP45-UD3P), and while the sound card functioned, I was not allowed to make any adjustments. The Xonar D1 Audio Center opened and it even looked like I was making changes, but the audio always remained flat-sounding, completely unchanged from its default state. I even had tons of help from people here on Overclock.net, but nothing we did worked at all.

The most irritating thing was that the Graphic EQ in Windows Media Player worked perfectly. It's like the system was mocking me or something. smile.gif I mean, I made an adjustment in WMP's Graphic EQ, and I instantly heard a difference. I actually had fun with that because I was hearing some of my music in ways that I hadn't heard it before just like everyone promised me. But I still got rid of the card and put my XtremeGamer back in because at least the Graphic EQ in the X-Fi Console Launcher worked (the Console Launcher is the equivalent to the Xonar Audio Center).

So thanks to that experience, I never recommend any of the ASUS sound cards even though thousands upon thousands of people feel that they're leaps and bounds better than every X-Fi card.
Edited by TwoCables - 3/10/11 at 8:14pm
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #25 of 60
I forgot to mention that I like waffles too! biggrin.gif

(you know who you are!)
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #26 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables;12688136 
You're welcome. But there is nothing to be nervous about, especially if you have the manual for the motherboard.


The drivers for all of the commonly-recommended sound cards have a Graphic EQ as well as other useful adjustments.


lol redface.gif


It won't be in the Windows control panel, but it would be in the the software that controls the driver. For example: the Xonar DX Audio Center is software that gets installed along with the driver for the Xonar DX sound card so that the user can make adjustments.

So it could be in the Start Menu somewhere.

But if you really don't have it, then let's continue pursuing a sound card. And actually, I think you'd be happier with a sound card anyway because you'll have noticeably better audio quality.


Absolutely. But I figure that it's best to disable the onboard audio because after all, what are the chances you'll be using it along with the sound card? Obviously, some people do use both at the same time for specific reasons, but most people don't need both. I most certainly don't. smile.gif

So if you won't need the onboard audio after getting a sound card, then do this before putting the sound card in:
  1. Uninstall everything related to the onboard audio from within Windows. If you see absolutely nothing for it in the control panel ("Add or Remove Programs" in XP, or "Programs and Features" in Vista and 7), then open Device Manager.
    1. If you have to go into Device Manger, then expand Sound, video and game controllers
    2. Right-click the entry for your onboard audio
    3. Choose "Uninstall"
    4. In the box that appears, enable "Delete the driver software for this device"
    5. Click OK
  2. Reboot when prompted
  3. Press Del during the Power-On-Self-Test (or "POST") to enter the BIOS
  4. Once you're in the BIOS, press the right arrow key to enter the Advanced menu
  5. Press the down arrow 3 times to select Onboard Devices Configuration
  6. Press Enter to go into it
  7. I don't know what this area looks like, but look for HDAudio Controller.
  8. When you find it, change its setting to Disabled
  9. Press F10 to save and exit at the same time (it will ask you if you're sure, so say yes because now you're done with the BIOS)
  10. When it begins going through the POST again, turn the system off using the power button on your computer's case (you may need to hold the power button for 5 seconds)
  11. Put the sound card in
  12. Make absolutely certain that it is in all the way and that it's in perfectly straight - especially if it's a PCI card. I mean, a PCI-E card has a smaller interface, so it'll be easier to achieve a perfect insertion.
  13. Turn the system on, let Windows load, and install the sound card's software and driver
  14. Reboot when prompted and then you'll be off and running to do what you want to do with it

Now, my personal sound card recommendation is the X-Fi XtremeGamer (the one that has the smaller PCB - the one that looks like it's a Low-Profile card). This is because I tried the Xonar D1 (the PCI version of the DX) in two different motherboards (an EVGA 680i SLI and the EP45-UD3P), and while the sound card functioned, I was not allowed to make any adjustments. The Xonar D1 Audio Center opened and it even looked like I was making changes, but the audio always remained flat-sounding, completely unchanged from its default state. I even had tons of help from people here on Overclock.net, but nothing we did worked at all.

The most irritating thing was that the Graphic EQ in Windows Media Player worked perfectly. It's like the system was mocking me or something. smile.gif I mean, I made an adjustment in WMP's Graphic EQ, and I instantly heard a difference. I actually had fun with that because I was hearing some of my music in ways that I hadn't heard it before just like everyone promised me. But I still got rid of the card and put my XtremeGamer back in because at least the Graphic EQ in the X-Fi Console Launcher worked (the Console Launcher is the equivalent to the Xonar Audio Center).

So thanks to that experience, I never recommend any of the ASUS sound cards even though thousands upon thousands of people feel that they're leaps and bounds better than every X-Fi card.

ok and thanks. it looks like the card you suggest is more readily available.

I will make a decision soon.

thanks!
post #27 of 60
You're very welcome!
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #28 of 60
Thread Starter 
I just bought a Creative labs blaster X-fi.
it is installed & working but NO equalizer!!!

WHY???
post #29 of 60
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonR399;12705906 
I just bought a Creative labs blaster X-fi.
it is installed & working but NO equalizer!!!

WHY???

I found out that I have to buy THEIR Toolbox for 39.95$
post #30 of 60
The Console Launcher (it's software) provides the Graphic Equalizer.

Have you been talking about a physical equalizer all this time (meaning, one that is a separate piece of hardware)?

Which X-Fi model did you buy? Did you install the driver and software that it comes with?
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
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