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Need some advice on a decent Heatsink - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamuelL421 View Post
Always go overkill w/ cooling. Its not worth the risk of being cheap. You could end up spending many times the amount of a decent cooler to replace the CPU. Running at 80-90C for an extended period of time will be a death sentence for your proc.

First thing to ask yourself is, do I need 4.0ghz? I've got a similar setup to you and I can honestly say that the difference between 3.5/6ghz and 4.0+ is pretty small on most tasks, especially gaming. I only run mine this fast b/c I do some video encoding and serious multitasking.

Again, you might be fine with your current cooler if you run a bit lower speed/voltage. But if you do plan to stay @ 4ghz make sure you get those temps down to lower 70's ideally. This is even more important when you factor in the ambient temps going up in the next few months as we hit summer.
Love how you mentioned summer. I was thinking exactly this last week, temps are going up soon. Hehe.

Yeah I know 90c is insane bro, lol. It's wayyy to high. That's only Linx though, it stays at a decent temp otherwise.

Do I need 4.0ghz+? I wouldn't have it any other way, hehe. Cmon but this is overclock.net, that advice is for Toms Hardware or something. What were you thinking there? Hehe.

I know what you are saying though, the difference is not much, but I can't buy new parts until these ones have been maxed. I know there is more speed hiding from me.
post #12 of 15
frio is good cooler and will handle i7, but it's loud as hell
anything above 1300RPM was way to loud for me
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My System
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i5 2500k@4500Mhz asus sabertooth p67 rev 3.0 asus 570 directCU II 8GB DDR3 G skill sniper series 
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samsung 1TB, WD 640 green win 7 64bit samsung xl2370 seasonic x650 gold 
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post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivix View Post
OCZ Vendetta 2 is a little weak for the i7's, as stated above...

Don't mind me asking, but have you tried reapplying thermal paste? I only use AS5 for lack of knowing anything better, and I have been refining my technique for the last few builds and my temperatures have gotten more uniform. My Q9550 only varies by 1-3C now (as long as the cores are stressed equally).

My secret move is to use a very well-machined steel rod (mine is from a DVD drive) to completely flatten the thermal paste. You want a thin a coat as humanly possible (assuming the cpu and the cooler both have very flat surfaces).
I like your thinking. I have tons of old broken DVD roms I found in the garbage one time. I am positive you are speaking of the Optical Pickup rails present in every optical drive. Sweet.

I can see how this would work well, I will try it for sure.

I have not tried a repaste no. I am no going to bother either. I don't have a case that allows me to remove my cooler with taking apart my whole damn PC. Which reminds me, time to get out the rotary cutting tool when I install my new cooler.

I don't see why any case cannot have this feature with 5 mins and Dremel. Hehe.
post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxusty View Post
Do I need 4.0ghz+? I wouldn't have it any other way, hehe. Cmon but this is overclock.net, that advice is for Toms Hardware or something. What were you thinking there? Hehe.

I know what you are saying though, the difference is not much, but I can't buy new parts until these ones have been maxed. I know there is more speed hiding from me.
Haha, fair enough - that's sound logic.

If you really don't want to upgrade or crank it back (who would?), reseat the cooler with some good paste such as AS5. Also from what I remember on your cooler, its got a 75ish CFM fan with crap static pressure. Dropping a new 120mm fan on might be worthwhile. Just have to make sure it fits/is the same size as your old one. Not sure about what width you'd need, but the Sycthe slipstream or Ultra KAZE 3000 might be a good choice. But only go with an KAZE if you've got a fan controller or don't value your hearing - they're beasts.

Or go with the easiest/cheapest option to keep your cpu safe - hyper 212+

Also, if your reapply the thermal paste, the dvd rod idea is good, but overkill. Clean everything completely first, then just apply enough to get a good covering on the bottom of the cooler. Scrape that completely off buy using the long edge of a credit card (the idea here is to fill in the tiny, invisible-to-the-naked-eye, pits and bumps that are present in the metal). Finally, put a pea-sized dab of TIM on the middle of the CPU, attach and tighten cooler, and you're done.

good luck with it.
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FT02
(28 items)
 
  
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i7 990x Gigabyte EX58-UD5 EVGA GTX 1080 Classified 24GB Gskill 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX Predator PCIE 480GB Crucial MX100 512GB WD RE3 3TB WD Black 750GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Blue 1TB WD Blue 1TB Slim/slot load DVD-RW in slim drive + 4xSSD bay Prolimatech Megahalems, 2x Scythe Ultra Kaze 30... 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Win 10 Pro Acer Predator XB321HK 32" 4k ASUS 24'' Acer 24" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Blackwidow Chroma EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 Silverstone Fortress FT02 (limited ed. #913) - ... Razer Diamondback Chroma 
AudioAudioOtherOther
ASUS Xonar DG .51 Sennheiser RS 180 USB 3.0 PCIE card #1 USB 3.0 PCIE card #2 
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post #15 of 15
Quote:
Or even better had an i7 close to my speed and voltage and could tell me what they used. If I could keep it under 80c at full load I would be happy.
I have an i7 950 @4.2GHz and I use a Corsair H50. Works like magic.
    
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Intel Core i7 950 @4.2GHz Asus Rampage III Extreme EVGA 560 Ti SC 960/1920/2130 Stock Volts 6GB DDR3 1600MHz Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
WD Caviar Black 500GB, A total of 3.07 TB storage Some Samsung One.. Win 7 Home Premium HP w2338h 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G510 Corsair AX850 CM HAF 932 Logitech G9x 
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Steelseries QcK SC2 Marine Edition 
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