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Does home electric wiring have anything to do with the wattage my computer pulls? - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
Then I think it will be fine.

I had a brownout recently while I was at my computer, but it stayed on and the monitor even stayed on without dimming. The only difference I noticed was that my fans slowed down. But I panicked and shut it down, which I was even able to do properly!

So once the power came back to 100%, I asked Phaedrus2129 about it and I learned that the brownout was harmless because I have a switching PSU. In addition, my monitor has a switching PSU too. He said that even when the brownout caused the power to be reduced to like 30-50% or whatever it was, I could have been gaming and I wouldn't have been interrupted. Well, I lost my internet connection because neither my router or cable modem have switching power supplies, but still.

So even major power fluctuations are harmless to good PSUs. I think it has something to do with having Active Power Factor Correction (PFC) or something like that.

So, I'm trying to say that even if she turns the hairdryer on while you're gaming, your system may not even notice.
When did I say that? Not all of that is true. SMPS can be very adversely affected by brownouts.

Having active PFC, though, means that there's a boost converter present on the primary, which can keep the voltage up for the primary switchers. So that adds a little brownout tolerance vs. non-PFC and passive PFC SMPS.

But monitors rarely have APFC, and so don't have even the small margin the boost circuit gives you.
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDS View Post
Seriously, if you do not know anything on the topic as fact... please just do NOT respond. I had to laugh at the last sentence. Dimming lights from turning on a hair dryer or a washer and dryer are no indication of anything other than the way AC type electricity works.
Oh absolutely it can, can it happen without there being an actual problem, more than likely, but it could be an indication of something else. Usually though, it is an older home that just doesn't have that much oomph. My dad's house does the same thing and it is because he has some very low amount of current coming from the main line to his ancient house.

EDIT: If you don't believe me, just google washing machine dimming lights and see the variety of issues that it indicates. Until then... please just do NOT respond. I'll give you a hint, in most cases, it is either a loose connection, or some idiot contractor cheaped out and used wiring that didn't include a ground wire.
Edited by joemaniaci - 3/12/11 at 11:43pm
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post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
When did I say that? Not all of that is true. SMPS can be very adversely affected by brownouts.

Having active PFC, though, means that there's a boost converter present on the primary, which can keep the voltage up for the primary switchers. So that adds a little brownout tolerance vs. non-PFC and passive PFC SMPS.

But monitors rarely have APFC, and so don't have even the small margin the boost circuit gives you.
It wasn't as recent as I made it seem.

But I remember I mentioned it in someone's thread somewhere because it came up. In the same breath, I expressed my concern. All I remember is that you (or someone) put my mind at ease by saying that I could have even been playing a game and still kept going. I also remember that it was explained that the reason why my monitor didn't dim is because of its own power supply's design. I mean, I was still able to save my work and shut down.
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It's a computer!
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post #14 of 27
I'd have to look at the specific case. *shrug*

And I'm always learning. For instance, I just found this wonderful white paper from Texas Instruments with circuit diagrams for all the major SMPS topologies, from buck and boost to double forward to phase shift ZVT.
post #15 of 27
What's "SMPS"?
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
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post #16 of 27
Switch Mode Power Supply
post #17 of 27
Thank you; I'll always remember that now.
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It's a computer!
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
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Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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post #18 of 27
IIRC, you can pull 2400w from each wall socket (at least in australia) before the breaker will trip.
post #19 of 27
In the USA, and other places with 60hz 120v service, a 15 amp circuit can carry only a total of 1440 watts before the breaker trips which is 80% capacity... A 20 amp circuit can carry only a total of 1920 watt... with 220v supplies being able to pull up to 2880 and 3840...



this is where your efficiency comes in... your 80% rated PSU requires 1200w AC to product 1000w DC... so you'd be looking at 825w for that 750w MAX load...

your average hear dryer is around 1200-1400 watt... the bathroom light is on the same circuit normally as the outlet... i would hope your PC is not on the same one...
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post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by linkin93 View Post
IIRC, you can pull 2400w from each wall socket (at least in australia) before the breaker will trip.
Doubtful. Each wall socket does not have a dedicated 12AWG wiring and breaker.

You might mean 2400w from a standard a circuit.
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