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Corsair H50 running really hot - Page 5

post #41 of 50
try not to smear it until you make that first contact and then unscrew the motherboard mount to where you can mount it and then lock it into place
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Hyperspeed
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post #42 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tha808evangelist View Post
try not to smear it until you make that first contact and then unscrew the motherboard mount to where you can mount it and then lock it into place
ugh never mind these temps just change around like crazy. one minute this ones way higher, then it's way lower, then i try upping the ghz and BSOD. i'm just gonna fiddle with this until i figure it out.
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post #43 of 50
that's the best way to learn! lol!
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post #44 of 50
Your temps are fine.
I don't know why you are worrying so much.
Just make sure you installed it correctly and everything is functioning properly.
That's it, really.
post #45 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwiasian View Post
Your temps are fine.
I don't know why you are worrying so much.
Just make sure you installed it correctly and everything is functioning properly.
That's it, really.
well now my temps are ok but linX keeps quitting after like 2 minutes
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post #46 of 50
Thats means you lowered the voltage too low for that high of a clock.
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post #47 of 50
Checking with the Googles, 75c core for a ~4GHz OC with the H50 cooler is normal. It sounds like you've dropped your vCore too low, so raise it a little until your stress test software runs fine, and keep it there.

CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute, the measurement of how much air the fan is moving at a given rotation speed (RPM). It demonstrates the efficiency of the fan (high CFM and low RPM is an efficient fan, low CFM with high RPM is poor efficiency).

HTH.
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post #48 of 50
If you are interested in some great cooling fans on the cheap I highly recommend getting two high speed yate loon fans for push/pull.Yeah they are loud but they will give you as good of performance as any fan out there and they are like 4 dollars a piece.

The temps you are seeing are normal,but after removing a heatsink you really should do a fresh application of tim.Re using the same application after removing the cooler a few times is going to result in higher temps.Remember with the h50 every degree counts.Try cooling your room down a bit.It will do wonders for your temps.
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post #49 of 50
TBH i have my CoolIT ECO ALC running in push/pull with the air being sucked from the inside to the outside, and i idle at about 24-25C. And load is about 43-45 on a 3.6GHz OC. (not huge but shut up)
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post #50 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_clayman View Post
right right, hot air rises, i've passed elementary school and watched the weather channel

i think i just need to get some better fans with higher "CFM" (what does that even mean? all these acronyms i dont know.
CFM is "Cubic Feet per Minute". It's a measure of the volume of air that a fan will move in that period of time.

One thing to keep in mind is not to get sucked into the "cult of CFM". CFM is not the only important characteristic you need to look for. With case fans, all that really matters is the amount of air you can move, since they're moving air into and out of a big open space with very little resistance. With heat-sink and radiator fans, you also need to have a fan with a high Static Pressure.

Static Pressure is the force of the air, measured in mm of H20. Fans with a very high CFM often have a low SP. This means that they are moving a lot of air, but once the air encounters a surface with a lot of resistance, the air will "stall" the fan; that is, it will create back-pressure and turbulence, causing the air to circulate around the fan blades instead of being pushed forward by them.

Radiators have a lot of resistance (for what should be obvious reasons); and require more force to push air through them. A fan with high CFM but low SP may still be pushing a lot of air; but it's going to end up pushing much of it around in circles, rather than through the radiator. A fan with a lower CFM but a high SP will actually push more air through the radiator, and thus greatly improve cooling efficiency.

A high SP is probably not quite as critical with a narrow rad like the H50, as it would be with a bigger rad like the H70 or higher-end custom-build rads; but it's still an important factor in maximizing cooling. Especially if you have a consistently high ambient temperature.
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