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OC in XP but not Win7 ?? - Page 3

post #21 of 26
At this point, I recommend upgrading to the latest BIOS. I mean, it works fine with an older operating system, but then it doesn't with a much newer one. So yes, I am confidently recommending that you flash to the latest BIOS without even worrying about whether or not you already have the latest one.

Before you flash, return the BIOS back to its factory defaults and then save it, reboot, and check to be sure it's actually back to factory defaults. After that, flash it.
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(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #22 of 26
Thread Starter 
ok, im gonna flash my BIOS but I wanna do it right. in the zip file of my bios download, there is a folder with 4 files - a txt document, a *.210 file, an application file, and a Word Document with instructions. the instructions say:

Award BIOS Flash Procedure
1. Know your model number
a. Open your case and look for the MS-XXXX number on the motherboard between the PCI slots, also check the version number that is written there as well. (Some motherboards are named like K8N Diamond; make sure you have the right version number)
b. Boot up your system & take a look at the top left screen during POST, you should see something like “W7100NMS V1.1 021705†This means the board is MS-7100 with BIOS version 1.1
Hint: Many systems are clearing this message very fast, the bios version is then unreadable, and you can either press “PAUSE†or disable the “Quick Boot†in the BIOS setup.

2. Download the BIOS that matches your motherboard AND version number (some motherboards are named like K8N Diamond; make sure you have the right version number). BIOS can be found according to the CPU type of your board like if your CPU is AMD 939 type then look here
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/produc...39%20(AMD%20K8)
if you cannot find the BIOS that matches your board, try here http://www.msi.com.tw/support/bios/more.php

3. Extract the BIOS-archive that you have downloaded by double clicking to c:\est

4. Boot your system from a Win98 or WinME boot-floppy.
How to make boot floppy in case your don’t have it ready:
For Win9X, You can type [C:\\ format a:/s] from the DOS prompt.
For WinME, You can make a boot floppy from control panel--> add/remove program-->make boot floppy. Remove autoexec.bat & config.sys file if there's any.
For Win2000, there's no way to make boot floppy, so you have to either use Win9X or WinME boot floppy.
For WinXP, you can make a DOS boot disk. Go to Your Computer, right click drive A:, select Format, select copy system files.

5. When you get the A:\\ prompt, type the following sequence:
C: <enter>
cd\est <enter>
C:\est> awdfl865 BIOS file
(To save or not to save old BIOS is the user’s decision)

6. Reboot your system when prompted




Is this how i do it? do i really use a boot disk? is a usb driver used as i have read elsewhere? the application type in the example instructions is not the same as the application file in my downloaded directory - do i type the name of the app file i have instead (e.g. C:\est>afud4234 BIOS file). should i save my old bios if it prompts me?

thanks.
post #23 of 26
Thread Starter 
i got it to work!! DISABLE SPREAD SPECTRUM for MSI boards. its quite intereseintg actually read up on spread spectrum it limits radio frequesncy output to meet FCC quidelines. well im at 3.6 its time to go to 4.0 im sure ill be back!! ive never installed a cooller and paste on cpu but it may be next

thanks again for all your help
post #24 of 26
It's WORKING?!?!

NO WAY!

Seriously? Is Windows 7 showing the overclock now?
Edited by TwoCables - 3/18/11 at 9:35am
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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Reply
post #25 of 26
Thread Starter 
YES WAY! WOOT WOOT !!!! i ended reading and searching MSI forums and a lot of people had the same problem with the same board. anyways, yall helpled a lot in just keepin me thinkin and now i can overclock like before but i really wanna push it i play DCS A-10C and this is gonna help with new 64 bit and vid card and OC now but im thinkin about doing some better cooling like i said just to keep it going and chattin with all yall. thanks again. MSI = diable spread spectrum = overclock possible WOOOOOOOOTTTTT WHO DATTTT!!!! i ran orthos for few hours now and win 7 is maxing temp is cooler than xp was
any air coolers you recommend for e8400 im gonna do this here!! although im reluctant to take out my MB. is that the only way to install cooler right? i think im ready.
post #26 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by ieatenchiladas View Post
YES WAY! WOOT WOOT !!!! i ended reading and searching MSI forums and a lot of people had the same problem with the same board. anyways, yall helpled a lot in just keepin me thinkin and now i can overclock like before but i really wanna push it i play DCS A-10C and this is gonna help with new 64 bit and vid card and OC now but im thinkin about doing some better cooling like i said just to keep it going and chattin with all yall. thanks again. MSI = diable spread spectrum = overclock possible WOOOOOOOOTTTTT WHO DATTTT!!!! i ran orthos for few hours now and win 7 is maxing temp is cooler than xp was
any air coolers you recommend for e8400 im gonna do this here!!
I can't speak from experience, but I suppose the cooler temperature readings could be due to the new BIOS. I mean, I think it's possible that these readings may be more accurate than before.

Anyway, I forgot to ask some questions (even though they're numbered, these are mostly in random order):
  1. What do you have for CPU cooling now?
  2. Which P7N board do you have? I noticed that there's more than one version
  3. Which G.Skill memory do you have?
  4. Which power supply do you have (what's the brand and model)?
  5. Which computer case do you have?
  6. Which graphics card do you have?
  7. What temperatures did you get with that most recent Prime95 test?
    • Was it Blend, Small FFTs, or In-place large FFTs? (the default selection is Blend)

I'm sorry for asking all of these questions, but they are important.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ieatenchiladas View Post
although im reluctant to take out my MB. is that the only way to install cooler right? i think im ready.
Only if it comes with a backplate (or if you buy a backplate assembly to go with the cooler). However, it's actually harmless to remove the motherboard. Instead, it's more of a pain in the butt than anything because there are usually 9 screws, two relatively tough-to-remove power cables (one for the motherboard and one for the CPU), and then you have to find a place you can put the motherboard (such as a wooden bread board). In addition, it can also be somewhat physically demanding - especially if the cooler you buy uses those Intel-style pushpins as opposed to actual screws. However, getting a cooler with those push-pins means that you wouldn't be required to remove the motherboard.

However, it's significantly easier to remove or install CPU heatsinks if the motherboard is outside of the case somewhere.

Anyway, I recommend two different coolers:

The Dark Knight is probably the best bang-for-buck value, while the Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme would provide noticeably superior performance. So my vote goes for the Dark Knight!

Note: Newegg's product page for the Dark Knight claims that it's not necessary to remove the motherboard to install it. However, I think that this only applies to AMD boards because it comes with a backplate for Socket 775 installations. Except, I would prefer the backplate because it means that you get to use actual screws.

Now, you might have noticed that these two coolers have the Heatpipe Direct Touch design. This design requires a different method for applying the thermal paste, and fortunately it's all described here:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

Although, they kinda go to the extreme because they recommend lapping it. However, the main thing is to fill the gaps between the heatpipes as shown in their pictures.

Take notice of their different results from three different application methods (that is, in addition to making sure the gaps are filled). The last two images on this page show the best method and the results once the heatsink was installed (those black marks are from a permanent marker to indicate where the CPU meets the heatsink).

The only thing I probably wouldn't like about the Dark Knight is that it sounds like it comes with cheap thermal paste while the Tuniq Tower comes with its TX-3 paste, which is actually a very good compound. The original Tuniq Tower came with this "TX-1" paste which was more of a generic type of compound, but the TX-3 is damn good. However, Tuniq's thermal pastes don't get recommended as often due to brand recognition even though it's top-notch stuff. :/ So if you get the Xigmatek, then I recommend getting some decent thermal compound like this:

Tuniq TX-4 High Performance Thermal Grease for $11.99 shipped (also includes a $5 Mail-In Rebate)

Although, don't let the applicator's size fool you: it's still just 1 cc (1 ml), or 3.5 grams. It's basically identical to this stuff, but at a lower price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835186038
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
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