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Made this on a car forum, figured I would post it here, I did not bother to search, and from a quick browse I think this is the appropriate forum, Mods please feel free to move.

HOW TO fix or reuse a broken connector/make connections for your own harness.

READ WHOLE POST AND DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH BEFORE TRYING.
if you are making your own harness buy AT LEAST 25% more than you need, especially if it is your first time. You will probably fail at this so be careful and patient. I would not bother if pitch is smaller than 0.1".

DISCLAIMER I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY TO PERSON OR PROPERTY ETC, OR NEGLECT OR EXTREME NEGLECT OR MISREPRESENTATION BY MYSELF OR ANYONE ELSE. I ADVISE AGAINST FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE WHERE LIFE LIMB OR INJURY MAY BE POSSIBLE. IT IS A BAD IDEA FOR AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATION, AND COULD LEAD TO DEATH. I ADVISE YOU NOT TO FOLLOW THIS GUIDE AND USE NEW MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC PARTS IN ANY AND ALL APPLICATIONS, AND A REAL $16,000 CRIMPER.

cliffs: if you or someone else DIE, loose a finger, get tetnis, or melt/burn create a fire, brakes fail, charged with arson or another felony, etc, this is not my fault.

Sorry for the bad focus, these are tiny.

OH NOES (Intake sensor)

TOOLS I USED
-wire strippers/crimpers
-2 small needlenoze pliers, I would recommend finer or skinnier than what I have.
-assorted tweezers
-precision screw driver set, ie tweezers or miniature pry-bar
-wire cutters(not pictured I prefer dikes)
-dental pic/diaper pin
-hammer/mallet

1ST PROBLEM HOW TO REMOVE CONNECTOR/CONTACT

see the 'top' square, from this you may push down on the tab that holds the connector on, the tab can be seen below. I used a 1mm screwdriver, then pushed the connector out with tweezers

TYPICAL ANATOMY OF A CONTACT

edited from http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/440132-1#
A (red)used for crimping insulation for mechanical strength
B (blue)used for crimping wire for electrical contact and mechanical strength
C (green) where the other male pin from other connector slides in.
a properly crimped connector will typically look like part C in the example I have photographed, this is basically impossible by hand.
CAREFULLY PRY CONTACT OPEN (for this automotive grade connector from 1972 I spent an hour, on some others it may take 5 minutes)
CAUTION MAY BREAK these are not designed to ever be reused or bent.
I personally start with the insulation part (A) first, for this use tweezers/ screw driver, you may need to unroll it in which case a diaper pin or dental pic may be handy. It does not need to be unrolled all the way.
Random pics





NEXT OPEN/ UNROLL wire crimps, carefully these are more important, smaller, and likely more difficult. In this case i had to manually pull and push wire strands out to be able to get leverage to pry.
-pics
CLEAN WORK for good a good connection. Sorry no pics, I did not bother.
RE INSTALL WIRE,

-strip fresh(recommended) wire slightly shorter than distance between A and C. you want as much contact as possible without having ANY wire blocking C.
-push/place/slide wire through A until the insulation butts up against B. you want as much insulation crimped as possible without affecting B.
-CAREFULLY CRIMP B FIRST. The insulation has thickness if you crimp A first it will be difficult to get them to fit or sit low enough into B. I recommend using the crimping tool (top of strippers). needle nose may be required to get B flaps to roll over the wire. You want to simulate a machine as much as possible. Try not to fold the connector as this will likely create breaking.
-lightly tug to ensure a good crimp
-repeat above steps for A and the insulation.
-give a strong tug and twist to ensure no wire breaking or a bad crimp.
-use DMM (digital multimeter) to verify connection.

TADA DONE WITH THE HARD PART
NOTE due to not seeing any 'wings' on B for this connector, and a not so fantastic crimp I added a very small amount of solder. If not done correctly or on smaller pitch the solder will prevent the connector from fitting or functioning correctly and may even cause damage.

RE-INSERT connector into connector housing, ensuring PROPER ORIENTATION. Then give light tug to make sure it was installed correctly.

LAST OF ALL USE A DMM TO VERIFY CONNECTION.


DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING!!!
DO NOT RIP YOUR WIRE BACK OUT!!!

If you have any input, or find any errors/typos please let me know. This is not intended to have 100% proper grammar. I did not search to see if this was covered. It is late and I did not proofread so great. Please let me know of any errors or recommendations.

HAVE FUN!!!
Edited by tucsondude - 3/15/11 at 10:23pm
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My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i3 530 GA-P55-UD3 R1 570 A-DATA (2 x 2GB) 10666 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
WD BLACK 500gb 7 Pro 64 Samsung LED 1920x1080 10yr logitech 
PowerCaseMouse
Rosewill RG530 CM RC-310 Logitech MX 518 
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Reply