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Monitor Repair/Capacitor Replacement Tutorial

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
WARNING

Monitors contain capacitors and other electrical components that can hold enough charge to cause serious injury or death- Even if they are unplugged!

If you are not comfortable do not open it! I am not responsible for any injury or damages incurred, you have been warned!


Hopefully you've noticed there is an updated version of this tutorial! It is highly recommended that you follow that one instead.


Capacitors! Hopefully you already know what these are, but as a brief overview, in my left hand is a Electrolytic capacitor and in my right is a solid aluminum electrolytic capacitor. I will be replacing two Electrolytic capacitors with two solid ones!
p1010771n.jpg


First, the headache. I've had this thing a few years and some have said that I've had it long enough to get a new one by now, but I'm cheap so moving on...
p1010673s.jpg


Unplug everything of course and open her up. I used a screwdriver to push the side in and pry up, this marked up the outside pretty badly but hey, it's already broke right?
p1010767b.jpg


You'll want to unplug everything in the monitor as well, we need to get under that cover with all the electrical hazard symbols on it. Mind the 'Don't touch' tape.
p1010732.jpg

In my case the power plug and the monitor connectors are screwed to this shield. I used a pair of needle nose vise grips for the standoff screws.
p1010736nf.jpg
p1010735n.jpg


Time for the actual cover, when lifting it up watch that the connectors are not caught and that nothing is still attached. (It takes longer getting it open than it does to fix it!)
p1010734h.jpg


That there is your problem. The bulging top is a sign of internal failure, the other way to test capacitors is to use a low ohm meter. Capacitors should read at about ~0.01ohms. Much more resistance than that is another good indication of failure.
p1010675t.jpg
p1010677da.jpg


The blown capacitors are on the power board, so lets get that thing out of there so we can start soldering!
p1010721ss.jpg

Flip the board over and find the underside of the blown capacitors. These are also points that can be used to check their ohm values, however that is still best checked with them removed from the circuit.
p1010716a.jpg


The idea is to heat this underside and lightly pull and rock it from the other side with your hand. Switching between the pins with the soldering iron when no more movement can be achieved with one.
p1010696c.jpg


Now with that blank spot, just be sure to put it in the right way. The darkened sides are supposed to match.
p1010759q.jpg


Quick note, the values of the old capacitors were 220 microfarad and 25v, the new ones are 220 microfarad and 16v. The voltages are a maximum voltage rating and there is a nice little label letting me know that the voltages should be 5v or 12v. Logically these little capacitors are not going to be handling the 100-240v!
p1010758.jpg


I placed some tape on the capacitor to hold it in place while I soldered the other side. Trick is to heat the capacitor lead and the board point, these are the two that we are going to connect after all. Anyone who has welded should be familiar with this technique.
p1010761edit.jpg


Ah! This does so please me! Reassemble it and cross your fingers!
p1010762t.jpg


Success! I hope this will be helpful to others!
p1010770s.jpg

Edit: I wanted to add a little bit about heat and wattage of the soldering iron. Generally I have found that the lowest wattage possible is best. -It isn't very fun when the heat transfers through the whole board and melts solder unexpectedly other places. Or worse case, the components become damaged.

In this tut, the solder point and the capacitor were being soldered together and the heat/wattage just needs to be enough for those to melt solder.

*I'll likely update this in the future if something happens to the monitor or new/better information is found*

First update: It has been brought to my attention on the BadCapsForums that capacitors should be replaced with equivalent or lower esr. Refer to this post
Also, after reading through one of the forum admin's tutorials, when replacing electrolytic capacitor with solid/poly capacitors the farad value is generally halved. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=93000&postcount=8

Second update: The farad value is only halved when dealing with voltage regulation modules (VRM’s). I am getting my facts straight at the badcaps forums and then I will be remaking this tutorial.
Join me at: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14662

Third update: I've replaced two more capacitors on the power board. This was not because it needed it, but because a dying graphics card led me to believe it was the monitor and I didn't trouble shoot enough. I've replaced the second two with more accurate measurement of cap replacement, that is by Ripple and ESR ratings instead of farad and voltage.

Forth and likely last update: All new information will be posted to the new tutorial. I will only update this tutorial if something happens to this monitor.
Edited by Fir3Chi3f - 10/20/11 at 10:50pm
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post #2 of 38
Ahh The elite... That little bugger wouldn't leave me alone while helping you put your computer together. Nice tut. +1 for sure.
post #3 of 38
Now THAT is a tutorial with an interesting (and humorous) twist! excellent work Fir3Chi3f!!! thumb.gif


BTW I'm not surprised those CapXon capacitors failed they're mentioned a fair bit over @ BadCaps.net, you'd think after all the problems the PC industry had with nasty capacitors on mainboards they'd be avoiding questionable components on all products GRRRR! mad.gif

capxon.jpg



From one re-capper to another... glad to see you living the dream REP+ cool.gif
Edited by ()ut[@st - 3/16/11 at 6:23pm
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post #4 of 38
Thread Starter 
Thanks fellas,

@ animal0307 - Yeah, actually getting work done on this job however wink.gif

@ ()ut[@st - That is a neat site! You'll probably see me around there soon rolleyes.gif
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post #5 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fir3Chi3f;12763923 
@ ()ut[@st - That is a neat site! You'll probably see me around there soon rolleyes.gif


Yeah... that's where I usually source my capacitors from (one of the members not the actual site) International shipping can be a killer for small components cool.gif


EDIT:

I decided to pull down my Acer AL1916W monitor tonight and lo and behold I found a bulging 220uF 25v capacitor...

lcdbefore.jpg


I only had a couple of general purpose Hitano capacitors around so I had to head into town and grab some more from the local electronics store (Hitano EXR series) I figured why replace one when I can replace them all eh? LOL laugher.gif

lcdrecap.jpg
Edited by ()ut[@st - 3/18/11 at 2:45am
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post #6 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quite nice ()ut[@st, I actually only used solid caps because I had them from a previous project.

From badcaps.net I learned that there are more to caps besides just voltages and fraud's. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2044&postcount=4 Didn't even think to check if these were low esr!
I was contemplating reposting this tut over at badcaps just to see what they think of it! biggrin.gif
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post #7 of 38
very nice + rep

ViewSonic VX2835WM 27.5" Piano Black 3ms(GTG) Widescreen FULL HD 1080p HDMI LCD Monitor 500 cd/m2 800:1 Built in Stereo Speakers

and it started having problems where half the screen would mess up (its really hard for me to describe). i only had it for less than a year and it was unusable after that. i still have the monitor sitting around the house.

you have inspired me to go hook it up again and will come back and post pictures of what it looks like! i was really bummed out b/c i paid about 6xx at the time for it in 2007. never tried to do the warranty since i was "busy" at the time and its out of warranty now
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post #8 of 38
nicely done.
    
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post #9 of 38
This is the third time I have had to recap a monitor. They started dropping like flies as soon as you posted this. Time to fix a $10 monitor and go Eyefinity.

0613012242.jpg
There are 5 more caps just like that in this one.
post #10 of 38
Great tutorial but I want to be sure this is my problem before I buy caps and open up my monitor. My monitor still works but is failing, what are the symptoms of cap failure?

I posted my problem here: http://www.overclock.net/monitors-displays/1043471-dying-monitor.html
    
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