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post #21 of 82
I show you mine pretty much what you are after but im using swiftech rads instead cause of spacing, dont look at the tubes idk what happened to it but my tygons feels it needed to change colours on some parts.... gunner.gif

attachment.php?attachmentid=200642&stc=1&d=1300414695
Edited by kevink82 - 3/17/11 at 7:19pm
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post #22 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink82;12772990 
I show you mine pretty much what you are after but im using swiftech rads instead cause of spacing, dont look at the tubes idk what happened to it but my tygons feels it needed to change colours on some parts.... gunner.gif

I really like your color scheme. I'm not usually one for white with clear tubing, but it really looks clean. biggrin.gif

@OP: I too have a 360 at the top with my fittings in the two top 5 1/4" bays with a 120 at the back. It's tight, and make sure you get all of your wiring lined up first, but doable. The only thing I hate about having a 120 at the back is when it's time to refill after draining my loop. I prefer to unplug the 8 pin and short the ATX connector when refilling/priming/leak checking so I can use the pump with minimal damage in case of a leak. I've had to resort to unplugging it from the back as I have big hands and can't reach in there to unplug the little bugger! upsidedwnsmiley.gif
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post #23 of 82
Thread Starter 
@Kevin:
yes pretty similar what i had in mind; only i would run fans of the top rad in pull air mode - none of them below the top rad
Your rig look very nice, looks awesome and it is admiarble ordered!

@haf_wit
You make a very good point as once rads are set there the caging is done and keys thrown away...indeed
I plan to use a secondary powsup for any "unplugged" job of filling / draininig so that way i would avoid touching the installed cables in the rig (which will be unplugged from wall in this situation). I'll make sure to have the pump and fan ctrl plugs handy to easily swap them from main psu to ext psu for mainteneace. Thanks !
Edited by oc_geek - 3/27/11 at 3:52pm
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post #24 of 82
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by septro;12772537 
Oh I see where you're going now. More advice for whatever its worth - I tried running the RX360 with the inlet/outlet facing the front like you're trying to do and you lose almost the top 3 5.25 slots, definitely the top 2. You can't fit a DVD/Blu-Ray drive up there and only a fan controller with a short depth would make it. But it looks like you're willing to remove the HDD hot-swap bays like I did - so it may not be an issue but you may want to look at some 90 or 45 degree fittings to make the run from the top rad to the res as I had a hard time doing that without kinking or a long run but your RES may be shorter than mine so it might not be an issue.

Another thing to remember is for the RX120 you want to put up at the exhaust - if you place the fans on the outside of the case, you'll need to get some longer fan screws as the mesh up there actually juts outward from the case making the screws that ship with the RX120 too short.

I tried the same Koolance QDCs as you and took them out afterwards. They function just fine where you'll put them at but I wasn't too keen on the look to match my bitspower matt-black fittings as they are hard to hide. Hope they work better for you.

Yes angled fittings would be indeed more than reccomended, i figured out in multipe areas (360rad, cpu-120rad, 120rad-gpu) there will be sharp bends. I avoid 90deg fittings since i feel water wouldn't like to drive as "auto-man" (supposing people remeber that futuritic man that used to curve the car at shart 90deg...)
I'll get the two top slots free, yes. I wouldn't need to swap HD so often if at all
And u right the RES is around 7cm in depth
On the 120Rad fan i pan to keep it in the case and as discussed above it shall fit wery closely to the top rad by a few mm gap (i also took some 6-32 skrews alreay of different lenght 30-35-40 to be prepared to that...biggrin.gif)
The QDC is same colour of my fittings (silver) as the tygon i picked up (silver). As colur scheme goes i opter for copper WB, silver fittings/tubing and red lighting around...it semmed a good combination. I would like to keep the QDC bse it shall help maintenance by far
Thanks for the feedbaks folks! cheers.gifcheers.gif
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post #25 of 82
Thread Starter 
I took few camera.gif of the two XSPC RX Rads in the HAF-X were i plan to position them hmmsmiley02.gif
They are so tightly close that you can't put a niddle in between but they sneakely fit in eek.gif

However there are tow things to consider when mouning the 120 RAD at back and the 360 at top:
1) The I/O slot hits his bottom if the RAD is direcly skrewed into the wall; this is not my case as i said i put a fan to pull air from it, a specer (5-7mm) and the actual RAD. This gives the gap to the wall to let the I/O slot not bothe anymore (but mind that you lose the top I/O slot this way)
Than it can really sneaky under the top RAD and goes under it by say 1-1.5 cm (not a prob thout)

You can see the snaps i took on that here attached.

2) The Top RAD fits with no prob and there are two "bridges" where it gets sckrewed in at the end and at 2/3 of the lenght.
Mind that the Heigth of the RAD is almost 60mm and it will come half way into the first 5.25 slot (see pic) plus due to fitting (which shall indeed be angled! otherwise kinking is assured) mind also the 2nd slot is partially occupied. I intend to leave those two empty and use that space to leave a peace of hoose connected to fill port so when i need to refil i open the top 5.25 slot and my intake is there ready to be filled (cap is at hose endindeed to seal it).

Ok enough talking sorry....sozo.gif
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post #26 of 82
Thread Starter 
the 120 rad is quite aligned with the 120mm skrew hole (the other is for 140mm that we don't mind here)

The fan is a nice gap filler to avoid interference with the I/O slot as mentioning above

Out.

Cheers
biggrin.gif
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post #27 of 82
This is how I have it, with my 120mm rad Exhausting down the bottomn.

cimg0042d.jpg


I have a 120mm fan as intake in the back, with the fittings to the left, it wouldnt fit a 120mm Rad with a fan.

cimg0043c.jpg


Here you can see that the 120mm rad is a bit wider than the 120mm screw holes

cimg0044at.jpg
post #28 of 82
Thread Starter 
I would think of ur setup as plan B.
While it fits nicely i don't like the idea of heating the bottom of the case (heat coming than back in as it will raise naturally) and draining my wooden floor...
My point above on the skrew (the second set of pics) was to show that once the 120 rad is set in the case under the 360 (first set of pics) its mounting hole is just aligned with the 120mm fan skrew hole, so it can be mounted inside.
The rad itself is indeed fatter and taller than the 120 fan; however it fits tightly (in case the fittings are reversed to the front on the top rad - opposite than yours)
Thanks for the pics
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post #29 of 82
I have a RX240 and RX120 mounted exactly how your 360 and 120 is in my HAF X; And I don't remember the I/O slot hitting the bottom of the RX120
whk4xw.jpg
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post #30 of 82
One criticism, you really DO not need a 120 rad in the back.. Just more restiriction and waste of money space time and fittings etc. Other than that looks epic
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