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Length and type of tubing affect temperature...?

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Is it true that longer tubing setups will yield lower temps? This makes sense because the tube itself acts as a radiator and the ambient air around the tube cools the water throughout the loop. Evidence of this fact can be found in people who have modded their Corsair H50's. By adding a reservoir and longer tube, people were seeing major drops in temperature. So this leads to me to question if a thinner walled tube (3/8"ID, 1/2"OD) vs a thicker walled tube (1/2"ID, 3/4"OD) will make a difference in temperature. My thinking is that a thinner walled tube will allow the ambient air to cool the water better than a thicker walled tube because the thicker tubing acts as an insulator.
Edited by diane - 3/17/11 at 3:17pm
post #2 of 13
Actually you will get lower temps with thicker tubing cause of the greater waterflow. Not sure on the lenth though, but what you said seems to make sense.
post #3 of 13
Longer tubes make no difference to water temps or is absolutely negligble becasue you are using 100ml more water in your loop. The type of tubing is purely for looks and what your fittings will allow. The cooling of the water is done by the radiators not the tubing being exposed to ambient air, unless you live in Antarctica.
    
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post #4 of 13
Thickness and length will not make any difference.

As other items in the loop lower the flow (cpu blocks, gpu blocks, fitments), the thickness will not matter at all.

And length, unless you plan to go for long meters, its not going to make any difference.
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post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
How does this explain the modded H50 then? People were getting nearly 20C drop in temp just from adding more tube and a reservoir.

Quote:
Temps are down by quite alot.

Stock H50 with push pull

Load = 55'c

Modded H50 Push pull

Load = 36'c
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-res-mod.html
post #6 of 13
The H50 has a very very very very weak pump. I saw someone test it at a max flow rate of .21GPM.

So while there may be some truth on the H50 it won't happen with your typical aftermarket pumps which will easily push 1GPM+.

H50 pump is just soooo weak, maybe every little bit helps. .2GPM is WAY over on the steep side of the curves you see below.

On the average with good pumps, you'll see around a 30% increase in flow doubling up the pumps. So that would be something like 1GPM originally, and 1.3GPM after:


At most that's under one degree.
    
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post #7 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by diane View Post
How does this explain the modded H50 then? People were getting nearly 20C drop in temp just from adding more tube and a reservoir.



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-res-mod.html
The res acts as another light radiator and the standing water next to a fan helps to reduce their heat.
Also replacing the water, and getting rid of the trapped air in the H50 (which there is always some) also gives you a good cooling increase.

But the tubing doesn't mean 20c drop. Its impossible.
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post #8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by diane View Post
How does this explain the modded H50 then? People were getting nearly 20C drop in temp just from adding more tube and a reservoir.
2 possible contributing factors I can think of right off the bat.

The new tubing they used has smooth walls, so the pump is working against lower resistance.

The H50, and other sealed systems similar to it, are not 100% filled with liquid. I
There is air, or another gas, in the system, but no real reservoir to separate it from the cooling fluid flowing in the system.
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post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by diane View Post
How does this explain the modded H50 then? People were getting nearly 20C drop in temp just from adding more tube and a reservoir.



http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...s-res-mod.html
If you read the whole thread - NO ONE ELSE - was able to get that kind of improvement (2C to 5C usually) - no way changing the tubes and adding a TINY little reservoir makes that large of a change. Willhemmens (The Modder) does state he changed the thermal paste type at the same time so maybe that has something to do with it. My bet though, is he originally had the H50 mounted incorrectly OR his H50 originally was low on fluid.

Looks at this quote from Maximum PC - In general this has not been my experience...

Quote:
In General with tubes and heat transfer it is all about the I.D. - Larger is better. If your system is capable of soaking up heat of course.
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/how...nd_constructed
Quote:
1. Tubing is Everything

3/8-inch-diameter tubes spiked our temperatures on 100 percent CPU use to an average of 81 C and a maximum of 83.5 C. The same cooling setup using 1/2-inch tubing hit an average of 73 C with a maximum of 75.25 C. The more fluid you can move over your heat exchanger, the cooler the average temperature that fluid will be—that’s why 1/2-inch tubing wins.

Edited by Steak House - 3/17/11 at 7:52pm
post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steak House View Post

In General with tubes and heat transfer it is all about the I.D. - Larger is better. If your system is capable of soaking up heat of course.

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/how...nd_constructed
Their statement is completely false. At most you would see maybe .2C between 3/8" tubing and 1/2" tubing.

Sure tubing has some restriction, but for people using common strong pumps with 10' of head or more, the difference is generally not measurable. They simply had a bad test and are now spreading bad information.
    
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