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post #9571 of 10702
now alright so i wasn't paranoid but i was kinda hitting around any where between 60-80 in realtemp in cores 0 and 3 but cores one and two seem to run anywhere between 60 and 90c at the same settings i stated before but my h80 is in the "quiet mode" (not really that quiet tbh) but i know that the intel burn test absolutelly hands ivy bridges ass so is this normal
post #9572 of 10702
Quote:
Originally Posted by magd74 View Post

now alright so i wasn't paranoid but i was kinda hitting around any where between 60-80 in realtemp in cores 0 and 3 but cores one and two seem to run anywhere between 60 and 90c at the same settings i stated before but my h80 is in the "quiet mode" (not really that quiet tbh) but i know that the intel burn test absolutelly hands ivy bridges ass so is this normal
That's why a lot of people prefer to use Prime95. Only a small minority of people will ever use their computer for a task that stresses the CPU as much as even Prime95, so using anything more is just a bit ridiculous if you ask me.
post #9573 of 10702
ya but i got really suspicious so i just wanted something to really just heat it up as much as possible to test out the accuracy
post #9574 of 10702
Quote:
Originally Posted by magd74 View Post

ya but i got really suspicious so i just wanted something to really just heat it up as much as possible to test out the accuracy
Ah right, fair enough. I thought that you were using it anyway.
post #9575 of 10702
Thanks for the input!

My cooler is a Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. I've created my rig here. This cooler has a huge heatsink, so I don't think that's the problem. And the case is old, but if I'm going to throw money at the problem, I might as well upgrade my graphics card instead, unless these temps will really affect my CPU's longevity.

I forgot to mention that the initial problem with my rig is my framerate in WoW goes below 60 FPS during boss fights. For some reason, the game is very CPU-sensitive, and I disabled hyper-threading because the system never seems to use more than two cores at a time. I should've gone with a 2500K and spent the $100 on a new graphics card. I also think that the GeForce driver uses lots of CPU resources. My friend has a 2600K running at stock with a GTX 560 Ti, and he gets much higher framerates (more than 3x) than what I'm getting. Overall, it looks like I have a combination of a poorly hardware-accelerated game and a slow graphics card.

I was hoping to mitigate that issue by overclocking. But right now, I'm more concerned with the temps I'm getting. My poor Sandy Bridge is slowly dying from the hot working conditions. I've seen it fail blend tests that it had passed a week before. And after a two-week power outage from Hurricane Sandy, it couldn't even boot into Windows until I reset it to defaults, while the house was still very cold.

It's possible that I didn't install the cooler right. The Mugen 2 has a horrible installation procedure. It's also possible that I got a bad unit, since I've already installed it twice with similar results. What do you think?

By the way, I'm using the XMP setting. I wasn't overclocking my memory, so it seemed a lot more convenient to me. Is it bad to use the XMP setting?
timmy-pc
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timmy-pc
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post #9576 of 10702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothy003 View Post

Thanks for the input!
My cooler is a Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. I've created my rig here. This cooler has a huge heatsink, so I don't think that's the problem. And the case is old, but if I'm going to throw money at the problem, I might as well upgrade my graphics card instead, unless these temps will really affect my CPU's longevity.
I forgot to mention that the initial problem with my rig is my framerate in WoW goes below 60 FPS during boss fights. For some reason, the game is very CPU-sensitive, and I disabled hyper-threading because the system never seems to use more than two cores at a time. I should've gone with a 2500K and spent the $100 on a new graphics card. I also think that the GeForce driver uses lots of CPU resources. My friend has a 2600K running at stock with a GTX 560 Ti, and he gets much higher framerates (more than 3x) than what I'm getting. Overall, it looks like I have a combination of a poorly hardware-accelerated game and a slow graphics card.
I was hoping to mitigate that issue by overclocking. But right now, I'm more concerned with the temps I'm getting. My poor Sandy Bridge is slowly dying from the hot working conditions. I've seen it fail blend tests that it had passed a week before. And after a two-week power outage from Hurricane Sandy, it couldn't even boot into Windows until I reset it to defaults, while the house was still very cold.
It's possible that I didn't install the cooler right. The Mugen 2 has a horrible installation procedure. It's also possible that I got a bad unit, since I've already installed it twice with similar results. What do you think?
By the way, I'm using the XMP setting. I wasn't overclocking my memory, so it seemed a lot more convenient to me. Is it bad to use the XMP setting?
No, using XMP is fine.

If you're really noticing damage being done to your processor, revert it to stock clocks now. I don't know much about the Mugen 2 but if it's supposed to be a decent cooler and you're still getting bad temperatures at stock (unless your case has completely awful airflow/cooling) then I would recommend trying a reseat of it and seeing what things look like then. If you think you may have seated it wrongly before, make sure to read up about the correct procedure before attempting it again, and be sure to have some reasonable TIM to hand.
post #9577 of 10702
Okay, I've reset everything and set Ai Overclock Tuner to X.M.P. Thanks for the help. Idle temps are now 33-34-36-35, load temps 63-71-72-70.

I always read the instructions carefully before using products, but this cooler was a real challenge to install. The first time, I followed a video that suggested to install it by setting the cooler upside down and placing the motherboard down on it. The second time, I put the motherboard on two boxes and put the cooler on, screwing it in from underneath. I cleaned off the thermal residue for the second installation but used the same line application method. I also tightened the screws as hard as I could. This makes other coolers' installation procedures look like Fisher Price. I think I'll just buy a new cooler.
timmy-pc
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timmy-pc
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Intel Solid-State Drive 320 Series Hard Disk Drive Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 
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Microsoft Windows 8 Pro HP w2007 Wide LCD Monitor Microsoft MultiMedia Keyboard 1.0A Seasonic SS-430HB 430W 
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post #9578 of 10702
Heya everyone. Recently finished my build, and thanks to some EXTREMELY helpful OCN members (TwoCables and CL3P20 come to mind, as well as others), I've finally been able to stabilize my i7. Hopefully this image matches your requests. Ended up hitting 15 hours due to workplace delays.

Don't mind the resolution, I got a monitor on Black Friday that turned out to be a dud.




Thanks again!
Edited by Nanaya Ryougi - 11/24/12 at 4:47pm
post #9579 of 10702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellis View Post

Will do. As expected, I've now got a bit further than before. Last FFTs passed before were 48K at, like I said, the 5.5 hour mark. Now about 6h15m in, which is hopeful but I'm sure even without changing anything, I could have got further in Prime95 one day than another - I can't imagine it crashing at exactly the same point twice.
Anyway, we'll see biggrin.gif
Also, I need to reseat my cooler and I might have run out of thermal paste, time to buy some MX-4 or something perhaps tongue.gif

0.01v Increment is quite significant and from my experience, I'd expect prime95 to run at least 4 hrs longer if the voltage is being used efficiently. Check out the below links there are some very useful information on BSOD 124s:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1120291/solving-fixing-bsod-124-on-sandybridge-read-op-first
http://www.overclock.net/t/1125843/2500k-overclocking-help/40

5-6 hrs prime95 stable means you are very close. Keep trying thumb.gif

@ Timothy003
Glad you've worked it out, temps looks good now. 72c at full load is nothing to worry about at all.

@ Nanaya Ryougi
nicely done. Cheers.
Edited by Sashimi - 11/24/12 at 5:07pm
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Nebula
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post #9580 of 10702
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothy003 View Post

Okay, I've reset everything and set Ai Overclock Tuner to X.M.P. Thanks for the help. Idle temps are now 33-34-36-35, load temps 63-71-72-70.
I always read the instructions carefully before using products, but this cooler was a real challenge to install. The first time, I followed a video that suggested to install it by setting the cooler upside down and placing the motherboard down on it. The second time, I put the motherboard on two boxes and put the cooler on, screwing it in from underneath. I cleaned off the thermal residue for the second installation but used the same line application method. I also tightened the screws as hard as I could. This makes other coolers' installation procedures look like Fisher Price. I think I'll just buy a new cooler.
Those temps are more like it, though that's not much lower than I get at 4.5 GHz, what's your stock Vcore there? Provided you don't have a really high stock VID, which would just be unfortunate, you do have a temperature issue going on. I would recommend buying some new TIM (if you don't have any already), reapplying it and giving it one more go with your Mugen 2, because it does look like the sort of cooler that should be giving you much lower temperatures than it is. To be honest my cooler is a pain to fit as well, I think most of them are. Fortunately, if you do it well you shouldn't have to do it again for a while. Also, check your case airflow and check it for dust while you're at it - make sure it's not tucked away where it can't suck in clean air too.

If all of that fails, maybe the cooler is not as good as it looks, and it's time to grab a new one. I can certainly recommend mine, though there's a slightly newer model out - the 212 EVO - that you might as well pick up since it's usually a similar price. I would say that, on average, you should be able to get to 4.4-4.6GHz with a 212, whilst keeping temperatures well within safe limits. Of course you can spend more and get a Silver Arrow, an NH-D14, or a Corsair Hydro, but there's a big price difference so it's only worth it if you want a big overclock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanaya Ryougi View Post

Heya everyone. Recently finished my build, and thanks to some EXTREMELY helpful OCN members (TwoCables and CL3P20 come to mind, as well as others), I've finally been able to stabilize my i7. Hopefully this image matches your requests. Ended up hitting 15 hours due to workplace delays.
Don't mind the resolution, I got a monitor on Black Friday that turned out to be a dud.
*snip*
Thanks again!
Crikey, you could do with a higher resolution there tongue.gif

Nice overclock though, just got 4.5 GHz stable myself biggrin.gif



Looks like I need to double check my RAM settings (doubt that will have an effect on stability), and I need to switch to offset mode too. Apart from that, hopefully I'm good to keep this clock. I need to reseat my cooler before trying to go higher though, which may mean buying some new thermal paste.

Late addition to post: Thanks Sashimi, as you can see I've got it stable for 13 hours. That's good enough for me, I've never had any issues with something being stable for that long in Prime!
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