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"Fire & Ice" - Case Labs M8 WC'd - Thread revived - final pics to come shortly - Page 21

post #201 of 313
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post
What I don't like, is that these were made to be screwed up from the pedestal up into the main case, [...] I believe I used 6-32 x3/4" screw and nuts - 16 total.
I'd definitely try to sink the nuts in the ceiling of pedestal, or at least solder them. Still, With the weight of numerois HDDs, and/or few rads, I wonder how to move that whole case around (up/down, obviously).

You have great ideas and beautiful implementation. Please keep up the good work!
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post #202 of 313
my gawd im speechless!! and that NAS down bottom is freakn genius!! its the most modded caselabs case i've seen!! subbed for sure!
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post #203 of 313
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vatharian View Post
I'd definitely try to sink the nuts in the ceiling of pedestal, or at least solder them. Still, With the weight of numerois HDDs, and/or few rads, I wonder how to move that whole case around (up/down, obviously).

You have great ideas and beautiful implementation. Please keep up the good work!
Thanks again! So far, I have almost everything in the case except the pumps, res, tubing, and of course the water - and the case is already VERY heavy. Just for grins, I plan on weighing this thing when it's finally done and filled.

As far as moving it, CL makes optional casters (wheels) that will attach to the bottom instead of the feet the supply. That would be good if you are going to leave it on the floor. With a pedestal attached, and especially with one of the taller T models, I would probably go that route.

For mine, it will be sitting on a short cabinet next to my desk - and not moving again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CH4PZ View Post
my gawd im speechless!! and that NAS down bottom is freakn genius!! its the most modded caselabs case i've seen!! subbed for sure!
Thank you much! I've been lurking in a lot of the CaseLabs builds, and I agree that mine is arguably the heaviest modded so far. I gotta set that bar high ya know!


Weekend update. I loath, despise . . . no, I downright HATE sleeving 24pin cables. I misplace one pin, have to pull it out just to pull the shrink out of the connector on the pin next to it . . . then find out your diagram was upside down and get to pull it all out and start again . . .

Breathe . . . breathe . . .

I'm going to try and complete it tonite, but I have a engagement party for a friend this afternoon. We'll see if I can get to it or not. I'll try and get an update today or tomorrow night for sure.

Thanks for stopping by all.

/Bear
post #204 of 313
Thread Starter 
Update 17 - Let the sleeving commence!

Welcome to another update!! Let me start off by saying how severely I under-estimated the time it would take me to wire this baby up. I've done some sleeving projects, but they were always extensions - never a complete cable from scratch. To add to the punishement, I started with the NAS 24-pin to the motherboard. I spent a lot of time learning the best way to tackle this, but in the end I am happy with the result. I also have a process that works for me for the rest of the wiring.

Let's get into it . . .


I'll be mounting the power supply for the NAS inside the main case, and running the necessary power cables under it and down through a hole into the pedestal. I'll need to bring down the CPU 4 pin, the motherboard 24 pin, and 2 sets of SATA power lines for the hard drives.

A shot of the placement of the power supply - I'll mount it when cabling is completed.


All my wire runs in this build will be built from scratch because stock cables are to short/long to run them how I need. With scratch cabling, I can set the length and it makes cable management much easier.

I started with the 4 pin CPU power cable. The connectors into the Seasonic x560 are proprietary, so I need to remove them from the stock cables. I used a pin removal tool from FrozenCPU. There are many out there to choose from or you can use staples, etc - google is your friend here.


***NOTE - Do not be afraid to do this due to warranty concerns. If if need to send a power supply in for replacement under warranty, you only ever need to send the unit itself - NOT the cables. So long as you don't break the tape seal or pull a case screw, your warranty is intact. Sleeve away friends!***

For crimping the pins on the wires, you can use a crimping tool made for this task, or some pliers. IMO - the crimping tool is worth every cent - spend the money if you are doing a full power supply. The right tool for the job is always better then fighting to make something work.


Here's a shot of the new pins I'll be using. I picked up pack of 500 for dirt cheap so I'll have enough for this project and the next. Bonus!


You want to strip the end of the wire about 2mm-4mm


Then set the pin on the wire. There are a couple things to be aware of when crimping on new pins. You want the wire jacket to go no further then the first section of the pin wall. Second, you want your wires to go just inside the pin housing but not all the way up inside. Trim the wire as necessary.


Place the pin and wire into the crimping tool and squeeze! Be sure you pull the pin all the way into the tool before starting. If you have the wire to far forward, the middle section won't get a solid connection on the wires.

Here's an example of a correctly done pin crimp.


Next up is prepping the paracord I'm using to sleeve the wires. You first remove the core threads - some folks use these to tape or tie onto pins to help pull through the sleeve, but I find it's usually more of a hassle.


Then as before, add the heatshrink


Apply heat, and presto - a sleeved wire


Rinse and repeat a few times - alternate colors if you like. Here, I did green and white for the NAS. I could have spent the extra time to switch the green to blue behind the power supply so it doesnt shot, but I opted not to. There will be so much else going on, you won't notice a couple of green sleeves in the ICE side.

Here is the 4 pin power cable completed


So did anyone notice an issue in the above photo? If you said "Hey Bear, that hole looks too small!!", then you would be 100% correct! It is too small for everything that needs to go through it. So, I pulled 16 bolts to unhook the pedestal and case from each other, and busted out the Dremel and drill bits again.

As before, I have to cut the case where I need it, and then mark and cut the pedestal to match. I drilled a third hole next to the existing ones about an inch or so over, and then used the Dremel to cut out the middle section in between.

Before


After


That will do nicely!

Now to tackle the big boy - the 24 pin motherboard power - aka the bain of my Saturday . . .

Here's the stock 24 pin cable with the horrible "sleeve" the manufacture puts on removed already. An added pain, is the Seasonic x-series power supplies split the 24 pin power into 2 connectors on the power supply side. 24 pins on the motherboard, and 29 across to connectors into the PSU.


All the pins have been removed from the 24 pin connector, and you can see my diagram so I know where everything goes when I add the new wires.


Here's a reference shot of the cable length. The red wire is the stock length wire, and the black is my custom length wire. The portion they are wrapped up is the same length - so I mine are roughly 16" longer then stock - or about double.


The 24 pin is in a multicolored pile (saving the wires to use in a shorter run elsewhere), and the black next is the new wiring cut to the length I require. Room count currently housing parts of this build - 4 + 1 closet. Sorry honey, it's almost done!!


Here you can see the 4 pin we made earlier run up into the case above, and the single wire I've done on the new 24 pin run to test I had the length correct.


Pins are added as shown in the 4 pin above. This can be tough, and I had to add, remove, readd, remove again and re-heatshrink . . . a few times. Patience is key - a few adult beverage shots helped as well.

Remember above I said this power supply has 24 pins on one side and 29 on the other? I now have 4 double pins to deal with - or 4 sets of 2 pins into 1 pin.

I cut off an inch or so of the wire jacket on each wire, twisted together, and then crimped a pin on. I then used some pliers to twist, squish, and otherwise shape the tail into a size that would fit into the connector. Be careful you don't break any strands or you'll have to cut it and try again.


I then pulled sleeving up each wire


Heat shrinked the ends to hold the sleeve in place


Then finally a third piece of shrink to insulate the exposed wires and finish the joint.


This had to be repeated 4 times for this model of power supply.

One row completed - the missing spot near the middle is intentionally left blank. The shrink isn't 100% flush, but close enough that I'm happy with it.


It was then more of the same for the back half of the connector. Be sure your double wire pins are put in the correct holes!!

Here is a shot of the 24pin completed - now for the other side of the cable. Final length of this cable run is 39" It was a bit tricky to work with near the end, and I was surprised by the weight of it too.


Here's my work area in the dining room and the unfinished cable hanging over the edge. I started to do the other side connectors here.


That turned out to be a hassle like that. I opted to clear off the table and lay the cable out flat. This made it easier to trace the wires and get everything run correctly. FOLLOW YOUR DIAGRAMS!! You must get this right, or the first time you turn on your rig, you'll fry something expensive. Take your time and triple check it

The completed cable - all 39" of it!


For those wondering, that works out to 78 feet of cable and 76 ish feet of sleeve . . . for one cable!

I installed the newly completed cable, and thread it through the hole up into the main case. It's a mess at first


A couple white zip ties will solve that! I used straight-ish lines to run the cabling along the sides and up the corner into the hole to the power supply above. This will keep it open for both viewing and air flow purposes.


Added the four pin. It also has a zip tie to keep it together, but is not attached to the 24 pin - so I can have the option of removing one without bothering the other if needed.


And finally a shot of the completed runs from the opposite side. Total for these two cables is 90 ft of cable and sleeving - but looks super clean!


That's it for this update folks. I'm continuing to work by way up the case with the wiring. The fans and SATA in the NAS will be done next, then tackling the 24pin in the main case this weekend. Also the window panels will be done this week, and I'm excited to see how they turned out.

Thanks again for following along. Please feel free to post any questions or comments you may have.

Until next time . . .
/Bear
post #205 of 313
nice
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post #206 of 313
Nice build. Ill be watching
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post #207 of 313
The four pin power is always a PITA. However, I think it would look more professionally if you 'combed' the wires. I tend to use thin thread every 3-5 inches to keep it in shape, or little comb cut out of Teflon or plexiglass that has place for each wire.

Beside that I personally don't like heat shrinks - I pull the sleeving over the pin with wire and only then I crimp BOTH. Added bonus - no way the sleeving pops out. It... can't. Just can't. Added super bonus - looks waaay better. Added mega bonus - wires bend much better near the ATX plug, so I can literally wrap around and hide the whole ATX bundle behind the mobo effortlessly.

You did there MASSIVE amount of sleeving. Nice work!
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post #208 of 313
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post
nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoDoz View Post
Nice build. Ill be watching
Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vatharian View Post
The four pin power is always a PITA. However, I think it would look more professionally if you 'combed' the wires. I tend to use thin thread every 3-5 inches to keep it in shape, or little comb cut out of Teflon or plexiglass that has place for each wire.

Beside that I personally don't like heat shrinks - I pull the sleeving over the pin with wire and only then I crimp BOTH. Added bonus - no way the sleeving pops out. It... can't. Just can't. Added super bonus - looks waaay better. Added mega bonus - wires bend much better near the ATX plug, so I can literally wrap around and hide the whole ATX bundle behind the mobo effortlessly.

You did there MASSIVE amount of sleeving. Nice work!
Thanks for the comment.

I'm ok with the bundled wires, although I may try and straighten them out a bit more, but we'll see if it bothers me as I move forward in the build.

Heatshrink is kind of the standard, and I didn't even consider any alternatives. With as much as I fought the shrink on the 24pin, I will try your suggestion and see how it looks on the next cable run.
post #209 of 313
Of course, it depends on visibility of bundles. In normal single-compartment case they're pretty much jumping on your face - here it's something different, it's like a pin on a desert

Yeah, heatshrinks are standard, but how many f-words you said when sleeving escaped the shrink in the last second? Of course it's matter of personal choice. I just suggest to try and decide which looks better.

You've got glorious idea with NAS in pedestal.

Can't wait to see etched windows!
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Kamisama
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post #210 of 313
Thread Starter 
I too am excited for the windows. The files looked good, so I'm hoping it translate to the panels just as well.

Last night I was able to get a few of the fans wired, but nothing really pic worthy. The rest of this week I'll be finishing up the NAS wiring - 1 fan left and the HDDs, and then starting work on the main case. I have a 4 day weekend end of this week, and I WILL be done with the wiring - except maybe the lighting.

Cya on the other side
/Bear
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