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100% new to water cooling

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 
So to start off simple I was looking at this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181013


Since the majority of people who buy this type of equipment know what there doing ( for obv reasons ) google'ing my questions failed.


I pretty much want to know how it works. Is this all I need for water cooling my processor? How does it work? Does it cool water on its own?

Noob questions but I have honestly never touched this type of stuff
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post #2 of 29
The Corsair all in ones aren't as good as custom setups. I would buy from FrozenCPU if you're in the USA. Don't worry. I've never even touched the inside of a desktop (opened my lappy once) so you aren't the noob here as in terms of experience with computer parts. Anyways, if you want to do a watercooling setup, I would do atleast a graphics card with a CPU. If its just a cpu, its pointless. EK currently has the best blocks. Reservoirs are optional but helps you manage your water levels (filling, draining, etc.). Most people get bay reservoirs because they're usually easier to use. Also, there's the radiator, a heatsink that removes heat from the water. The pump is obviously the pump, the object that pumps the water around. The tubing is obvious too. Barbs are a type of fittings. They're overall better than compression fittings because its more secure. Most objects have G 1/4 threads such as radiators. The thread is the screw part of the fitting so you can connect it to radiators, blocks, pumps, and reservoirs. Here's how the system works. First, the pump pushes water around the system. The water goes into the blocks, picks up the heat, and then leaves. It would eventually arrive at the radiator to remove heat from the water. If you didn't have radiators, you're basically trying to boil your system. The water could end up at the reservoir if you have one. Reservoirs can remove air within you loop so there's only water circulating around. You can use it to manage how much water you have or add/remove the water. You must have the reservoir above the pump. Usually, the reservoir leads back to the pump and starts the complete cycle again. Now we move onto fluids. Distilled or De-ionized water is the best. If you want color, get colored tubing. Dyes and additives can damage your hardware. For tubing, PrimoChill and Tygon is recommended by most. Tubing usually has ugly labeling on it (not really ugly but just words) but Primochill doesn't have that. Primochill is the only one of the two that has color tubing while Tygon only has clear, black, and silver. If you want a quality pump, get the MCP35X by swiftech (they made it, not laing) or the Laing MCP655.
Edited by HybridCore - 3/19/11 at 6:45pm
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post #3 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
The Corsair all in ones aren't as good as custom setups. I would buy from FrozenCPU if you're in the USA. Don't worry. I've never even touched the inside of a desktop (opened my lappy once) so you aren't the noob here as in terms of experience with computer parts. Anyways, if you want to do a watercooling setup, I would do atleast a graphics card with a CPU. If its just a cpu, its pointless. EK currently has the best blocks. Reservoirs are optional but helps you manage your water levels (filling, draining, etc.). Most people get bay reservoirs because they're usually easier to use.
Everything you just said barley makes any sense to me.

I want this instead of buying a huge heatsink. Can you explain to me how this works?
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post #4 of 29
The Corsair H70 is a self contained water cooling unit, where the pump and cpu block are mounted together on the cpu, and it just circulates water between the radiator and the cpu block. In all honesty, a top of the line air cooler will save you $30 over the H70 and probably give you the same, if not better temp.
    
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post #5 of 29
Water cooling will let you do things that would otherwise be more difficult with air. It is a way to get that last 10% out of your hardware. I have 3 watercooled rigs and I did it because i was/am involved with folding. Folding places extreme demands on your hardware. As side benifit of water cooling is it is a great hobby.Everyone must justify the extra expense vrs what they gained against their own standards of what is giving to much for what you get back. If your mind is set that watercooling is for you read and re-read till it all makes sense. Let me put it another way,a room with an AC unit that keeps it at 60F will give better resuts than any watercooling system.
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post #6 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCCstudent View Post
Water cooling will let you do things that would otherwise be more difficult with air. It is a way to get that last 10% out of your hardware. I have 3 watercooled rigs and I did it because i was/am involved with folding. Folding places extreme demands on your hardware. As side benifit of water cooling is it is a great hobby.Everyone must justify the extra expense vrs what they gained against their own standards of what is giving to much for what you get back. If your mind is set that watercooling is for you read and re-read till it all makes sense. Let me put it another way,a room with an AC unit that keeps it at 60F will give better resuts than any watercooling system.
well put, the H70 and H50, are designed more for beginners, follow the mounting instructions, youll be fine, just make sure to take a can of compressed air and spray the rad out every few months (depending how dusty the area where your pc is, probably sooner)

the difference really between the H50 and H70, and the huge brick-like high end air coolers is

1. the size factor, not everyone can use those air coolers

2. the H50/H70 are somewhat quieter from my experience
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post #7 of 29
Thread Starter 
So Pretty much the water is already inside the radiator? and it goes through the tubes and back... I dont have to hook up a water source?

does it work with am3?


also, were can I put this thing? Is the a "normal" spot?
Edited by Nilareon - 3/19/11 at 7:10pm
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post #8 of 29
If you don't like dealing with your rig or putting much time into installing things, get the H70. It will give you decent performance and it can be installed in about 30 minutes.

If you want even lower temperatures and don't mind putting a little more work into your rig I would get the XSPC RS240 Kit. It costs about $30 more than the H70 kit, and will take more time to install. The kit comes in pieces and requires you to put it together and fill it with water.

Overall, the results you get will be based on your investment of time and money into the project.
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post #9 of 29
i've had the h70 before and cannot really compare to a full custom loop with either a 240 or 360 rad.

It works ok, if you're going to be moderately overclocking, but to tell you the truth it won't give you a overhead greater than that of the noctua nh-d14 so if you can fit that in your case... then go with that.

Draining water from your res isn't that difficult if you install quick disconnects.
Then it's easy as catching water with a bucket.

How it works....
water is better at heat transfer then air. (vs reg heatsinks which dissipate heat through air)
water starts at the res/pump to the rad which has fans on it to cool the water
the cooled water travels to the water blocks(heatsinks for whatever you are cooling)
that warm water goes back to res/pump from the water block which then goes back to the rad to get cooled.

This is a simple single loop. Mind you this will get you a bigger overhead but you will see basically the same idle temps.

Maintenance:

Microorganisms can live in the water you have within your loop/res so you will need to get a kill coil or a biocide to prevent things from growing.
You will need to change the water every few months or so, and this can be most easily done with installing quick disconnects that are basically an interface that bridges tubbing. This bridge can be quickly disconnected hence it's name for easy draining. Then just refill your res with purified water or coolant... do not use ice mountain or regular bottled water!

Thats about it, if you want to get more advanced you can add multiple loops or phase change devices with your water loop but that isn't apart of this thread.
Edited by badatgames18 - 3/19/11 at 8:16pm
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post #10 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirus2012 View Post
So Pretty much the water is already inside the radiator? and it goes through the tubes and back... I dont have to hook up a water source?

does it work with am3?


also, were can I put this thing? Is the a "normal" spot?
Pretty much that water is already inside... you never have to do anything, just plug it in and your good to go, you can not change the water even if you wanted to. (not without doing something major, as in there is no cap or "fill" port)

Yes it will work with AM3, can you read?

Newegg stats (under details tab): Compatibility: Intel LGA 775 / LGA 1155 / LGA 1156 / LGA 1366 - AMD Socket AM2 / AM3

You can again search and find threads among threads of people that have mounted this cooler in every way thinkable.

Normal spot would be the back of the case in the 120mm fan "spot"

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-h70-club.html
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