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i7 2600K only overclocking to 4.7 - Page 2

post #11 of 16
I would use prime95 if I were you. I can run IBT all day long and not have the system crash. Prime95 will crash within the first few minutes for me if I don't have everything set right. I was able to get 5.0ghz @1.44V and ran prime for an hour with no errors. I've dropped it back for my 24/7 OC, but I know she is capable of going much higher.

Try checking out this link: http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overc...beginners.html

It was really helpful to me as I am the true definition of a beginner.
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post #12 of 16
Thread Starter 
I downloaded the attatchment and im still getting 50-55gflop in 64bit with 8 threads, same temps. I ran it from 2gb up to the maximum and everything was the same as intel burn. Still a rock solid OC Im not a beginner and iv seen that thread a while back, I didnt learn anything.

The point of this thread isnt wether or not my CPU is stable. Its the fact that I could probably be pumping 1.7vCore into this thing and wouldn't be able to bump up to x48 multiplier, I just dont want to risk damage to it.
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post #13 of 16
Do you have Service Pack 1? lol
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post #14 of 16
Ugh...I took the time to write all of this then I saw you were on F7 bios...
F7 BIOS DOES NOT have PLL Overvoltage!!!

On the B2 Bioses, Gigabyte REMOVED PLL overvoltage from all of the official Bioses, because of instability with getting BIOS settings to work with it enabled.

Anyway, I revised my post.
Go to tweaktown and get the latest beta BIOS for the B2 version of the UD7. Links should be on the forums for Gigabyte latest beta bios. Try either f8x or f8f, but f8f is newer (f8x was the first beta of f8 series), and I think it helps resolve some boot looping problems that are present on F8x (but f8x clocks better for some people).

Make sure you get the correct BIOS, as there are B3 and B2 versions both out.

CLEAR THE CMOS AFTER FLASHING!!

Then set PLL Overvoltage to enabled.
Save and see if you can even get into BIOS at 48x100.03.
Set the vcore to 1.45v, LLC1 enabled. You can work on lowering it later.

Tell me exactly what happens now.

BTW, the B2 boards (due to the buggy BIOS) are VERY flaky when the PLL overvoltage setting is enabled. Just keep trying until it actually completes POST and allows you in the BIOS.

When I was on the B2 version of UD5, it was so flaky with PLL Overvoltage, that, for instance, I would set it at 1.430v in BIOS, ok, worked, got into windows. Then I'd set it at 1.425v, and Boot loop....Overclock failed. Then I'd set it back to 1.430v, and ....boot loop. OC failed. I just had to keep trying until it actually stuck. That was solved on the B3 boards with latest beta bios--no problems at all getting settings to work.

The B3 latest beta bioses are MILES more stable than the B2 versions.

You should have a favorable result after flashing to f8f. (even f8x, which is OLDER than f8f, is better than F7).

I am expecting to hear good news from you.
+Rep if this helped.
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post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
Yes I have SP1, but again stabability is not an issue, so everything related to IBT/prime95 doesnt mean anything to me since i cant get an OC worth testing.
http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/...veralltest.png

Thanks for the help and links Falk, your my idol lol. Iv been having trouble finding sites with the latest bios. Ill try getting the newest bios Monday and post my results since im busy today and tomorrow. I kind of regret not getting a B3 board when newegg asked if I wanted to replace mine, I wouldnt have much to do without a computer for a few weeks. Is there any way I can still have it replaced under warrenty, or even at a small fee? Id even do a refund or something like that. Iv never cleared cmos because iv read a while back theres a risk of damaging my mobo, is it still true with this the P67 UD7 boards?

2 odd things I noticed, but dont consider bad: at stock settings, even after resetting bios, my CPU doesnt set to defalt settings, it sets itself to 3.5ghz
Something I noticed is that core 0 runs 2-5C cooler than the other 3, which I think is good because itll be cooler for running a single thread. It was kinda cool when I ran straight distilled water in my loop at stock speed/voltages and I was getting 15-16C on the first core. Thats about 63F, while my room temp is 70-72F. I didnt know that was even possible.
Edited by stilts88 - 4/2/11 at 11:57pm
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post #16 of 16
You bought the board from Newegg?

Give them a call.
You can arrange for an advanced RMA, which will limit your downtime to the time it takes to install the new board. All they need is a debit or credit card for insurance that you'll return the board in 2 weeks (they may include a grace period of one week; ask them). They won't even charge the card as long as you ship back the stuff to them on time. They send you a prepaid UPS shipping label, you print it out, and package it properly, or take it to a UPS outlet and drop it off there. You can send it with fedex or something too, but you'll have to pay for that, but that still works.

I did an advanced RMA for my UD5 B3 for the buggy (ok, very buggy) B2, and every thing worked out nicely.

The period for the B3 replacement program was supposed to be at least two months, so you should still be able to get a RMA. Just call them. Don't email--call.

There's NEVER a risk with clearing the CMOS. The "Risk" is when people clear the CMOS with the power still turned on, OR attempt to power on a board with the CMOS jumper still in the clear position. I've cleared cmoses for years and never had any problems. Only had to remember to unplug the PSU to make sure the power was fully cut.

The "stock" setting error is a known issue. That's fixed on the B3 boards with the latest beta B3 bios.

You want a B3 board and you want the latest beta bios.
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