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post #11 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkdoutgsxr View Post
I am tearing into my watercooling setup, and have a lapping kit, the Rasa Block was shiny but pretty uneven so I thought I would give it a go, My kit had 200,400,800,1200,1800,2000,2500 grit, My results, not good... Take a look. I went 60 slides each direction in a 90 degree pattern on each grit. Used slight pressure.



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What does it appear I did wrong? The block is much flatter when doing the razorblade test, just not shiny
the sand papper must be bad
it will take a lot more than 60 passes
use good brand name 1200 and/or 1500
in time it will shine
Edited by Tweeky - 3/20/11 at 4:54pm
    
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post #12 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phos View Post
disassemble the block, don't lap it while assembled. Lapping while assembled gets rid of the desirable bow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post
This is important.

The whole point of lapping is to make the surface flat. If you lap it, then assemble it so that it's bowed, you didn't do anything other than polish it.

Lapping IS NOT just about putting a nice shiny finish on the CPU/cooler. It's about leveling out concave/convex surfaces and large surface imperfections. A mirror finish is nice, but it isn't nearly as important as making sure both surfaces are as flat as possible.
 
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post #13 of 23
Thread Starter 
I think I just didnt do enough passes, The problem is I cant find any high grit sandpaper locally so I have limited supplies lol. Hopefully I get it right this time, Going to do 60 passes 4 times 90Deg ratation after each set of 60 on each grit
post #14 of 23
All that is unneccassary.If the base is not flat,use a low-grit paper untill it is flat,like 220grit.Takes about 10m to get an uneven surface flat.(your is still uneven after all that)
Then,use 800 grit to remove any large scratches you have.You will have tiny scratches now.Then you take some polishing compound and buff the tiny scrathes out.Should take no more than 2 hours total.
counting passes.....
you sand until it is right for the next stage.
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post #15 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Mojo View Post
The whole point of lapping is to make the surface flat. If you lap it, then assemble it so that it's bowed, you didn't do anything other than polish it.

Lapping IS NOT just about putting a nice shiny finish on the CPU/cooler. It's about leveling out concave/convex surfaces and large surface imperfections. A mirror finish is nice, but it isn't nearly as important as making sure both surfaces are as flat as possible.
A perfectly flat CPU is necessary yes but wouldnt a slight bow on the waterblock be necessary to compensate for the bending as you apply pressure from the sides, which causes the middle of the block to actually go up?
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post #16 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkdoutgsxr View Post
I used plexiglass for my surface.
If you want a flat surface, pull a mirror of the wall.
    
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post #17 of 23
IF that block is flat right now, that is a successful lap. You want to get it as flat as possible, not shiny!..whos going to see it ontop of a cpu anyhow?!?..seriously though, dont aim for shine.
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post #18 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by waqasr View Post
IF that block is flat right now, that is a successful lap. You want to get it as flat as possible, not shiny!..whos going to see it ontop of a cpu anyhow?!?..seriously though, dont aim for shine.
This. A shiny surface is not necessary; I have never seen any credible evidence showing it actually improves temps. Both the IHS of the CPU and the heatsink contact surface should be as flat as possible, that is what's important.
    
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post #19 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Mojo View Post
The whole point of lapping is to make the surface flat. If you lap it, then assemble it so that it's bowed, you didn't do anything other than polish it.
Many of the very highest performance water blocks come with a slight bow to them that flattens out as the block is tightened down.
My EK Supreme HF has a pretty noticeable bow to it that flattens out against my lapped CPU when I tighten it down.

At least one of the highest performance blocks comes with an optional thick o-ring that increases the bow, and reviews have shown that it performs better with the thick o-ring.

When disassembled, those water blocks are flat, they don't bow out until assembled, which is why someone posted that he should disassemble it before lapping it.

IMO, lapping the bow out of the water block while it is assembled is likely harming its performance.
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post #20 of 23
If you want a very flat, very firm, inexpensive surface for lapping, get a cut stone tile from a home improvement store.
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