Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire)

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
Voici le crapaud lunaire. It is a bit of an inside joke what it means (literally "lunar frog") but the odd thing is that when I explain how me & some friends came up with the term and what it describes, a lot of people say, oh yeah, that is perfect. I'll explain at some point, but for now, just enjoy the endearing slightly wall-eyed gaze of the lunar frog.

crapaudlunairesmall.png

here's a shot of the front of the HAF in its latest state:

frontbeforerheobusmod.jpg
As you can see, the wiring on the back has not been managed at all yet. Also, looking at this picture I realize that I really do need to swap out the 5mm power & activity LEDs with the diffused 3mm ones I have, and that the Rheobus mod will make a big difference, too.

**NOTE**: Going to start keeping an up-to-date To Do list for reference, and to more easily monitor the progress without reading the entire worklog.

New List which includes all past, current & future planned items to do (last update 5/14/2011)

  • New Item: replace 5mm power/activity LEDs on front panel with 3mm diffused

  • New Item: Clean up cables on behind motherboard panel (right case side) Cable ties, etc. it's a mess right now.

  • Clean up the mess I made on the 24 pin connector. Sleeve the replacement SATA power cable when it arrives from Corsair. Sleeve a couple 3 pin to molex connectors for fans. (Finished 4 of 8 cathode tubes, all 4 front panel USB wires, front panel header wires, Sata Power Cable, 2 big fans, switches). Remaining: 24 pin, 8 pin, PCIEx2, Molex, Exhaust & Rad fans, fan extensions, w/c pump, Sata Data cables (after delivery).

  • New Item: Make side fan exhaust, install bottom 92 or 120mm fan as exhaust.

  • New Item: Make mount for pump. Possibly out of bracket that came with (now defunct) D5Vario, or L-brackets attached to 5.25 cage, that would make for shorter tubing & easier wiring of pump.

    These last 3 work items are less urgent and I have decided it's more important to move my build into the case than complete these, but I do want to get to them before long:

  • Mod Rheobus Extreme LEDs from blue to green & stealth front à la mode 932

  • Stealth DVDRW drive.

  • Mod left panel with big plexi window, depending on temps if I can eliminate side fan, but for now, just want to get moved into the HAF and work on cable management, get lighting in shape and work on temps, drive configuration, etc.


  • Done. Paint case. Remove rivets, prepare surfaces, prime & paint interior; put case together again.

  • Done. Swap/Install leds & add a couple more UV CCFLs or LED strips. on fans with UV or green (already painted blades on 2 of the 3) + install more UV CCFL &/or LED strips. Question: has anyone used pre-wired 12v 5mm LEDs like these soldered together on a fan as a shortcut? I've seen some mod guides on adding LEDs but haven't found any reference to using the pre-wired. Seems to make sense -- and also noticed that the top & side fans have what look like the same spots to solder LED wires as the clear LED front fan. Will test volts powered on and see, cuz that could be so easy. If they're the right volts, I could solder bare LED bulbs onto wires, and skip the resistors, but would then try to figure out how to attach separate on/off switch.

  • Done. Make 120x2 shroud out of 2 old ACRyan UV Green fans, reusing existing pre-wired UV LEDs. Mount above rad, then rad, the Gentle Typhoons.

  • Done. Install top fill port& bay res.

  • Done.Done. Mount my temp sensor LCD into modded bay cover

  • Done. Wire & install switches for LEDs & CCFLs into bay cover. Just some fit & finish work remains.Cut mesh bay cover to fit switches and Temp Sensor, fit back into bay once front of case is reassembled.

  • Done. Hot glued 4 CCFL Inverters into their bases, removed tops and will be mounting inside case in pairs, top and bottom. Paint edges of inverter bottoms (have 1 painted fluorescent green... might do remaining 3 in black leftover Universal Paint) -- but also am seriously thinking of removing all 4 PCBs and mounting them together in HDD bay #1. Yes, I am going to mount on just the bases.

  • Done. Modify CCFL wirinig, joining 2 inverters each on a single Rheobus control and mounted CCFLs inside case.

  • Done. Debur PSU Tray (this is after having done the PSU Tray Mod).

  • Done. Install Green LEDs in front trim pieces: 3 on left, 6 center, 3 right, in groups of 4. Install LED lazer underneath front mesh. Still a bit of wiring to do, but will be done tonight (4/12) Made two strings of LEDs, 6 in each, on 3 series circuits. Sanded LED bulbs & hot glued around each one to diffuse, but more to do... adding new worklog entry today about this.


End of Ongoing & Updated To Do List
******



Original First Post:
I finished painting my 932. I skuffed and cleaned all surfaces first, then primed the parts to be

painted Fluorescent Green with 2 x 2 coats White Clean Metal Primer (Rustoleum). Sanded, then 3-4 coats of Fluorescent Green (thought 2 cans would do it, then 3, then ended up buying one more). Could probably have done another can, too, but I'm happy with it, and under UV lights looks good and even. After 3 days to dry/cure, gave it 2 coats of Crystal Clear Enamel for protection (I had heard the Fluorescent paints aren't very durable otherwise).

paintsused.jpg

The Universal paint is great, sort of a foolproof application, resulting in a very smooth, baked-on looking finish, laid down very flat on its own. But I am going to comment back to Rustoleum about the sprayer on the Univ. cans: they are a real PITA. Both cans, 1/3 way into spraying, had the sprayer assembly come flying off in mid-spray and I had to punch it all together while trying to still get the first light coat on and every couple minutes after it came off again. So the paint itself is awesome, the new spray gizmo, not so much, IMHO.

goodgreeninside.jpg

sidepanel.jpg

Would really like to get my system into this box ASAP but I have these mods & upgrades planned first:
  1. Sleeving. Sleeve the hard-wired (24 & 8 pin) cables of HX650 + fans, W/C pump, & cathodes/LEDs. I read a guide about using paracord, so got 50' 550 paracord neon green, but have been reading about Clean Cut. I think being an impatient type, and not really nimble-fingered, Clean Cut might make a lot more sense, any recommendations? I want to single sleeve the cables, 1/8" + 3/16" heat shrink, right? I'm pretty decided on getting the Clean Cut, just need to look up that thread with FurryLetters info. . .
  2. Swap/Install leds & add a couple more UV CCFLs or LED strips. on fans with UV or green (already painted blades on 2 of the 3) + install more UV CCFL &/or LED strips. Question: has anyone used pre-wired 12v 5mm LEDs like these soldered together on a fan as a shortcut? I've seen some mod guides on adding LEDs but haven't found any reference to using the pre-wired. Seems to make sense -- and also noticed that the top & side fans have what look like the same spots to solder LED wires as the clear LED front fan. Will test volts powered on and see, cuz that could be so easy. If they're the right volts, I could solder bare LED bulbs onto wires, and skip the resistors, but would then try to figure out how to attach separate on/off switch.
  3. Remove top mounted 230mm Cooler Master fan, and mount new RX240 with 2 Gentle Typhoon AP14s on bottom of rad, to pull fresh air in from the top of the case. I think I have read that the RX240 + AP14s best suited to Pull versus Push. Eventually I will add a shroud to the fans, and/or add 2 more GTs for push/pull, can't yet tho'. I'm very curious to see how the RX240 temps will compare to my current WC using Bonneville heater-core with 2 ultra hi-speed 120x38 Panaflaos on each side Push/Pull in Performance Shrouds on both sides... I suspect it'll be tough to beat my temps without going push pull on the RX240.
  4. Install top fill port & bay res.

    ***********************
    At this point I'll probably move my stuff from my Antec 900 into the HAF and continue the rest as I can
    ***********************
  5. Mount my temp sensor LCD into modded bay cover with switch for lighting.
  6. Mount Rheobus Extreme into bay cover + mod knobs/cover/LEDs to fit 932 style; I'd like to try to swap blue LEDs to green, otherwise, just remove blue's & stealth cover.
  7. Stealth DVDRW drive.
  8. Lastly, mod left panel with big plexi window, depending on temps if I can eliminate side fan, but for now, just want to get moved into the HAF and work on cable management, get lighting in shape and work on temps, drive configuration, etc.
I'll be starting the sleeving once the Clean Cut gets here probably next weekend, and waiting to decide on either bare LEDs or prewired, depending on what I find out about the switch wiring & the fan circuitry. Til then might work on stealthing DVD drive or just get my work area cleaned... in a sorry state right now!

Thanks,
Edited by cyclometric - 5/14/11 at 5:09pm
post #2 of 38
Thread Starter 
A bit more work, more supplies have come in, a few more on order, and have some more concrete plans for the next steps. Also, a bit of a setback in that I stabbed myself with a jeweler's sawblade (a very slender metal serrated blade, I was using two of them as ATX pin removers, see this thread) and had to go to the ER to have it removed.

So, I have 8 new 12" UV Cold cathode tubes that arrived from Crazy PC. Their sale is still ongoing and at $3.00 with 50% off, and flat rate $3 shipping, I scored 8 new tubes for just under $15 shipped. Then realized I only have 3 inverters, so ordered that and some ConnectX connectors to mod the default Corsair HX650 sata cable... Will probably shorten it some, but aksi needed 4 sata power in a line for the top four 3.5" bays.

I picked up a better soldering iron which has a hot knife attachment, and ordered a couple green LEDs, which I used to replaced the blue ones in the front panel. Also picked up two green LED toggle switches, which I'm going to mount on one of the CM bay covers along with my XSPC temperature display -- gee, wish there was a mod available on that LCD so I could turn it from Red to Green... I'll post a notice and maybe some kind soul with a green one would be willing to swap!

Ordered 150' of black clean cut sleeving and 15' of 3/16" heatshrink from FurryLetters, should arrive today. Also coming are 8 prewired LEDs that I'm putting on the front and side fans. I have already painted the blades of both those fans UV green. The second switch is to control the LEDs on those fans, as well (maybe) as on my rear exhaust fan, which is a UV Green CoolMax 140 with green LEDs.

Had an idea for a shroud for now, too, when I start to tear down my Antec 900. I have total of 4 AC Ryan Blackfire fans, 2 of which are UV Green frames. I'll join them together side by side and cut out the 2 "center" sides and mount them between my RX240 and the GT AP14's.

Also started painting one of the CCFL inverters not in use with Rustoleum Plastic Primer, and now I'm brushing multiple coats of Apple Barrel Neon Green. Brush strokes are really showing nasty but all of the boxes will be tucked away and this is just for fit/finish, really.

OK, gonna save this for now and will be taking pictures and uploading in the next message.

As promised here are some pix.

This is the heatshrink & sleeving that just came in, can't wait to start using it!
sleevingandheatshrinkfr.jpg


These are the switches which I'll be installing to control cathodes on one, fan LEDs on the other (that's sort of a maybe).
switchesandprewiredleds.jpg

Here is one of the inverters taken apart for painting, and then in some UV goodness, and showing the Apple Barrel Neon Green paint. Not for cases, but small parts, it's good & price is right ($1.00 @ Michael's art supply).
cccflinverterpainted.jpg
cccflinverterpaintedinu.jpg

I'll be working on sleeving PCIE Corsair modular cables tonight, will probably have some more uploads & words mañana
Edited by cyclometric - 3/26/11 at 6:05pm
post #3 of 38
Thread Starter 
I started removing pins from the spare PCIE cable for my Corsair HX650, using tools I bought from ebay, after seeing a YouTube video. The guy uses jeweler's sawblades to remove the pins, sort of ingenious and looks great, except that they are actual sawblades, serrated, and, well, one of them stuck into my finger, full post here.

So I ordered one of those FrozenCPU custom ATX extractor tools and will be waiting til it arrives to continue any sleeving, other than fans/switches.

I finished wiring LEDs into the front fan, and I'm underwhelmed with the results
Fan%20Spinning%20with%20UV%20lights%20on.jpg

So I am thinking of drilling 4 more holes and putting in another 4. I'll have to figure out where to hide the wires this time, though, because I used up the available area already

FrontFanWiring%2BPlug.jpg

As you can see, I added a 3 pin female connector with the + and - leads of the LEDs and expect to plug it into a male connector I will solder onto the switch. I plan to also have soldered another molex, probably a 4 pin molex with just 12V & Ground wired, which will go to the PSU. I am hoping to hear back from someone with experience who can tell me if this is correct. Having an AC/DC power supply with a single molex connector is so handy for checking my work along the way, since I'm not an electronics expert by any means.

Off to the auto parts store for some connectors to attach to the switch terminals, and back with more updates later.
Edited by cyclometric - 3/28/11 at 11:15am
post #4 of 38
Thread Starter 
I just finished wiring my first toggle switch ever and to my delight, it works! This one will be to power the LEDs on two fans, maybe more down the road, and maybe a strip of flexible LEDs, too. I have another switch to control the CCFLs which I'll build next, but I would love some feedback (any feedback at all, actually, is anyone there?) on how to make this switch less . . . well. . . fugly!

Fugly%20Switch.jpg

Yeah I can sleeve the wires, but maybe I shouldn't be using those quick connects to the posts of the switch... better to solder them on directly and then just sleeve? I'll post in the general area since no one likes my worklog apparently. redface.gif
Edited by cyclometric - 3/28/11 at 2:25pm
post #5 of 38
There are a lot more lurkers then posters in this forums - so don't let it get you down! I like the work so far. I agree the LED in the fan are . . . lacking. Which is odd as they are usually to bright. I'm not experienced with led installs myself, sorry can't help ya there.

For the switch, you could solder and sleeve them directly for a cleaner look. You could also use that paint you put on the inverter box on the connectors to give the switch a full black/green look to match the case. Really just depends on what you will see of it once it is installed.

So, I was thinking of using paracord in my build also. Did I miss why you opted not to use it?
post #6 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907;12906977 
There are a lot more lurkers then posters in this forums - so don't let it get you down! I like the work so far. I agree the LED in the fan are . . . lacking. Which is odd as they are usually to bright. I'm not experienced with led installs myself, sorry can't help ya there.

For the switch, you could solder and sleeve them directly for a cleaner look. You could also use that paint you put on the inverter box on the connectors to give the switch a full black/green look to match the case. Really just depends on what you will see of it once it is installed.

So, I was thinking of using paracord in my build also. Did I miss why you opted not to use it?

Cool, thanks, and that's good to know. Seeing your signature made me realize I should put a link in here, too, so that people I'm already in convo with in other threads might come here.

Oooh, I just realized why maybe the LEDs aren't as bright as they should be. Since each individual LED can run directly off 12V (since they have resistors inline), I should be powering each with 12V, in like a star configuration, instead of a daisy chained config, as they are now. I still haven't glued the LEDs in yet, so I'll test, and maybe 4 will be OK after all...

I had read somewhere that the paracord was hard to work with especially around the edges where it can fray and then get difficult to properly use with the heatshrink. I've done a couple practice wires and it doesn't seem so bad, so actually, I'm using Black Clean Cut from FurryLetters for the majority, but am going to use some paracord for an accent stripe here and there. I was coming up with some ideas for patterns the other day, just messing around in Paint, and came up with some ideas for the SATA power, PCIE, and 24pin.

Just playing around, for fun. And the paracord looks fine against the black clean cut... will take some pix when I've got a bit of real actual sleeving done.

stripingpatterns.jpg
post #7 of 38
Thread Starter 
I finished wiring the LEDs on the fans, and so glad I checked about the parallel vs. in series for these types of LEDs. Maybe when I have some more practice soldering, I would be more willing to solder my own resistors onto wired and building an in series circuit...Anyway, having to reroute the wires, having already clipped a couple of them, cost me some points in the swimsuit category on the backs of the fans, but I won't show those to anyone... Suffice it to say, I needed hot glue for insulation because with my solders, heatshrink was out of the question.

But I moved on to sleeving the two connectors on each fan and used both the black clean cut as well as some paracord, since I have it and wanted to see how it looked next to the paracord. I like the results, although for longer runs of more than one wire, it was very difficult to get the wires through without ruining the paracord. So I just used it for the shorter LED wires, and used clean cut on the fan wires. I'm less sure now about being able to use the paracord on the 24 pin connector, but we'll see.

Here are some pix:
fanssleeved.jpg

The paracord also has a tendency to not lie as straight or make even curves like the clean cut does, but maybe that will change with time. Here's what I mean though.

paracordvscleancut.jpg

I am considering mounting my PSU on the top and putting my rad on the bottom, and screwing in 2 extra holes so I will still be able to mount the top fan up top. Plus, I think there would be more room for a shroud on the radiator fans. It just seems like a better use of space, since otherwise the area between the PSU and the HD cage would be empty -- especially once I cut the side panel and put in a big rectangular window.

This came about because I bought a dremel finally, last night, to prepare for cutting the power supply tray. Thinking about that made me wonder about top mounting it, etc. I'll post a question in the HAF owners' thread and see if I can get some feedback. Here's a mockup of where things would go.

shaf932psufantopradbott.jpg
post #8 of 38
Thread Starter 
Anyone?! How do you cut holes in metal mesh? I am ready to start modding one of my drive bay covers (HAF 932), need to makes holes to fit a couple of toggle switches and an LCD temperature display. I have snips, but they won't fit in the holes. Dremel? I have a small step drill bit that might do the job, but I'm afraid of chewing up the mesh and bending the entire piece. Thought it would be smarter to post here rather than spamming the entire Case Mod forum, but I've searched and can't seem to find the answer to this one. If anyone happens to see this that knows, please respond, 1 or 2 word answers totally OK! thumb.gif

Speaking of Dremel, I bought a version 100 (1 speed, seems very capable, but I think, having only one speed, it's not suited to use on plexi), to cut do the 932 Hard Drive Tray Mod (done, will post pix later today of this & other things mentioned in this post). I think I would like to return it and get either a better Dremel, or the Black & Decker RTX that sounds like a pretty good cheaper alternative, & it has variable speeds.



As for what's happening, I received a package from PPCs with
  • ATX pin extractor. Finally a tool that I am finding useful. I had been worried about how I was going to manage sleeving my PSU since I had been having a really hard time with staples & all the other methods I had tried previously (jewelers sawblades -- ER visit included, etc.)
  • Some inline SATA power connectors to customize one of the Corsair modular SATA cables. I have 4 HDDs, which will go in the 932's drive cage, top 4 (reserving bottom 4 for wiring and ccfl inverters)
  • UV green 24 pin connector. Figured I should switch it out which will help with wiring, and as a step, I plan on removing 1 wire at a time, and while sleeving I can bundle each wire into some 1/2" & 3/4" heatshrink as close in/near the PSU case as possible.
Also, received my swapped XSPC temperature display. I am so glad someone was willing to swap displays with me! I used to have a red one, but wanted a green one to fit this case. Thanks again, GhostRiderZG!

Sleeved 4 out of 8 of my new CCFL tubes (great deal on them from CrazyPC's closing sale, $3 flat ship & 50% off meant they were < $2/tube shipped). Challenging to sleeve, at least it was for me, in black Furryletters clean cut -- I only wanted to use one sleeve per tube, so both wires had to go thru, and then heatshrink over the bulky part where the wires go into the tube. But I managed. Not sure if I'll end up using 4, 6 or 8 tubes, but they're sleeved anyhoo.

Began sleeving SATA power cable with pass thru connectors on one of the Corsair modular cables. First, removed the 2 pass thru connectors already on the cable, then cut off the end pins, and separated the wires. Decided on a design, and sleeved the first length. I am glad I can use the paracord for this cable; besides making my cleancut sleeving go farther, I really like the color contrast. Will just be using it here on Sata, and maybe one stripe of green for each PCIE, and one every 4 to 6 wires on the 24. There's already *lots* of green in this case.

But now I'm sort of stuck. OK, I can accept the uneven heatshrink (even though all pieces of HS used were 5/8" and set at 1/8" below the metal pin before shrinking) -- but now what? I think I should HS the tops of these pieces of sleeving, and put on the first pass thru connector. But should I pin down the wires to make sure they're really aligned before putting on the connector? Here's my point:

satacablehowtocontinue.jpg

The cables won't really lie flat, so it's hard to tell where to put the connector on. Should I press the cables between some heavy books for a day or two to make it more apparent how the cables will stretch out once the sleeving has settled in?
Edited by cyclometric - 4/5/11 at 11:36am
post #9 of 38
Thread Starter 
Boy there's a lot still left to do. But I am steadily making progress. I sleeved the SATA power cable today, it came out pretty nicely. The first group of shrink is a bit uneven but I got the hang of it and all the remaining sets are nice and tidy and all 4 SATA connectors are 4cm apart on the nose, which should be a perfect fit.

satacablesleeved.jpg

I made a checklist of the items I still have left to do. I am going to leave some items to do after I've moved my build into the case, because I need to tear this build down and sell my 4 Panaflos and a couple of odds and ends.

My list looks like this right now:
  • Wire the second toggle switch, to control 2, 3, or 4 cathode inverters
  • Cut mesh bay cover to fit switches and Temp Sensor
  • Paint remaining inverters (have 1 painted fluorescent green... might do remaining 3 in black leftover Universal Paint)
  • Modify CCFL wirinig to all go to switch
  • Debur PSU Tray
  • Install LED lazer underneath front mesh
  • Make 120x2 shroud out of 2 old ACRyan UV Green fans, complete with UV LEDs
  • Sleeving sleeving sleeving: 4 more cathode tubes, modular double PCIE, front panel connectors, then day of the "move" sleeve PSU 24 & 8 pin
Once I get moved in to the case, I'll begin modding the left side panel. I started messing around in Sketchup but haven't decided on a shape or style yet. I do like the simple rectangular cutouts filled with clear plexi, and I am going to mount the clear 230 fan on the window, so that might be enough going on. Here's a very rough sketch:

leftsidepanel.jpg

At some point I ordered 20 green LEDs so maybe I can incorporate those and do something different with the HAF logo. It came out pretty good, but it's not all that original.
post #10 of 38
Thread Starter 
Tackling #1 on my new list, wiring the switch for the cold cathodes. Examining one of the CCFL wiring harnesses, it seems that it should be simple enough to just use the basic harness as is. First, I'll cut off the wires that go to the PCI slot switch, and attach those wires to the switch, the yellow to the 12V line, and the red to the ACC center. Then, for each inverter I want to add onto the switch, I only need to take the red & black wire that go to the inverter connector, and splice those into the red & black from the first inverter. I only need a single molex to the PSU, and only one set of wires from the "ACC" group of inverters to the switch. The only thing that has me puzzled is not having a ground wire to the switch, but I am sure the circuit is grounded anyway, though the PSU, just not sure if it makes a difference for the switch or the CCFLs in this case.

WHOA, backing up here. I just realized I have 6 switches in my Rheobus Extreme. 1 is reserved for my pump, 1 will power radiator fans, 1 for front fan and maybe side fan, too. That leaves 2 or 3 switches open. OK, this step just got a lot easier. I dreaded the thought of splicing together 3 black wires & 3 red wires. I'll just join 2 inverters together on each switch for now.

. . . 30 minutes later. . . one pair of cathode inverters is spliced together already, and tested, they do both power on off a single molex. Will do the other pair tomorrow, and sleeve both sets. I would like to take out the PCBs and mount them all together on a single circuit board or something... I think they could mount on anything, the idea is to get them out of the box & stay cooler. Will investigate. Could place all 4 on a single piece of plastic or something and have them sit in HDD bay #1.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mod Work Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire)