Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire) - Page 2

post #11 of 38
The wiring turned out great. When it's installed, the few uneven pieces will hardly be noticed. I'm not a fan of CCFL's, and haven't tried the wiring scheme you mention, but I'm curious to see how it works for ya.
post #12 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post
There are a lot more lurkers then posters in this forums - so don't let it get you down! I like the work so far. I agree the LED in the fan are . . . lacking. Which is odd as they are usually to bright. I'm not experienced with led installs myself, sorry can't help ya there.
I figured out that one. It wasn't the LEDs at all. It was how I had them wired, which was wrong. Since these LEDs are prewired with resistors inline, each individual wire & resistor combo should be exposed to the full 12V, but the way I had them wired, all 4 LEDs were in a series, thus each was only getting not even 3V (would be 3V if they didn't have the resistors inline). So buying the prewired LEDs is a hindrance sometimes. I probably could have done just fine with just the bare LED bulbs and no resistors, using 4 bulbs on each series. So I had to tear out my "in series" wiring, and wire all the reds together, and all the blacks together, and then connect those in turn to the +12V and grounding source lines. Once I did that, the LEDs looked *much* better. Thought I had posted that picture but realized today I had not. Very noticeable contrast, between earlier (wrong) wiring scheme and the current (correct) one.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post
So, I was thinking of using paracord in my build also. Did I miss why you opted not to use it?
And to answer your question, I had read about the problems with fraying and such, but led to my final decision, which was to use the paracord, but only on sturdier and/or shorter runs of wire, was my attempt at sleeving one of the front panel header wires with the paracord. I got about 15" of paracord sleeving over two wires still in their metal connector, but protected with masking tape, when I realized the tape must have slid off and bits of the wire pin were what seemed permanently enmeshed in the paracord. I couldn't move the wire forward anymore along the tube of wire, and couldn't seem to pull it out, either. Eventually I managed to cut away enough so that that wire is staying paracord sleeved (for eternity, I will not attempt to deal with metal pins stuck in paracord *ever again*, just happy to have this one done, even if just the first 20" of wire past the headers is sleeved.

The paracord has worked well for me on shorter, more manageable sections of wire like the SATA power cable (which had no pins on the end of the wire, since I used custom crimp connectors). I am hoping that on the 24 pin, 8 pin & PCIE wires, I will be able to pull a single wire still in a pin through, as long as I can protect the pin better. Will be practicing on a practice piece of sleeving & wire, first, though, for sure!
post #13 of 38
Just to let you know I'm watching your progress
"Contagion"
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2500k @ 4.2 MSI P67A-G43 Twin Frozr II Radeon HD 5850 8 gig Gskill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SSDNow V100 / 1 TB WD Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 Liquid CPU Cooler  Window 7 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
DELL S2209W (22")/17" NEC LCD G15 Antec NEO ECO 620W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS Certifi... Cooler Master Haf922 - Modded 
  hide details  
Reply
"Contagion"
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2500k @ 4.2 MSI P67A-G43 Twin Frozr II Radeon HD 5850 8 gig Gskill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SSDNow V100 / 1 TB WD Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 Liquid CPU Cooler  Window 7 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
DELL S2209W (22")/17" NEC LCD G15 Antec NEO ECO 620W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS Certifi... Cooler Master Haf922 - Modded 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14 of 38
Thread Starter 
I took a step bit and drilled holes in a spare mesh bay cover for the two switches -- only one of which I'll be using for now, though, after deciding to use a couple of Rheobus knobs for the cold cathodes. Along with LEDs on front and side fans, I'll also have LEDs glowing from underneath the front cover mesh, and in the shroud I'll be making from two AC Ryan Blackfire4 fans. There are also green or UV LEDs in the exhaust fan I've replaced the stock one with, so I probably will try to separate the LEDs from the fan power circuit, and I also have a 48cm UV LED strip that I may or may not use -- anyway, I think I would end up putting all of the fan LEDs on one switch, and all the others on the other toggle.

And now for the pretty, well, getting there. Need to flip the temp sensor so the switches are on when up, not down. :-)



I think I have a piece of black sound foam that I can cut to fit against the mesh to make a nice clean black background for the mesh. Or if I decide I like the industrial look of it, I might carve a piece of clear or UV green plexi instead. Speaking of which, I already have this bay cover from Mountain Mods, that I could use... though was thinking I would put it in one of the empty bays. There are six 5.25 bays, and I will be putting in a bay res, this control bay, rheobus extremem, and DVDRW. Here's a mocked up vision of the layout, and another after I swap some LEDs and stealth the DVDRW. Not sure what order I'll end up putting everything in, other than having the bay res in the topmost spot.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jon5270 View Post
Just to let you know I'm watching your progress
Thanks, glad to hear it! :-) And I'm enjoying your 922 mod!
post #15 of 38
You did good on the switches and lcd, and I would put something in there to cover all the wires like you where talking about.
"Contagion"
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2500k @ 4.2 MSI P67A-G43 Twin Frozr II Radeon HD 5850 8 gig Gskill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SSDNow V100 / 1 TB WD Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 Liquid CPU Cooler  Window 7 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
DELL S2209W (22")/17" NEC LCD G15 Antec NEO ECO 620W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS Certifi... Cooler Master Haf922 - Modded 
  hide details  
Reply
"Contagion"
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2500k @ 4.2 MSI P67A-G43 Twin Frozr II Radeon HD 5850 8 gig Gskill 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SSDNow V100 / 1 TB WD Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 Liquid CPU Cooler  Window 7 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
DELL S2209W (22")/17" NEC LCD G15 Antec NEO ECO 620W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS Certifi... Cooler Master Haf922 - Modded 
  hide details  
Reply
post #16 of 38
the switches look great cutting carefully and precise with a Dremel can be difficult at best. Project is look great so far Subbed!
post #17 of 38
This is looking good, probably not a lot of posters due to the first couple of pics. To me the green doesn't look good. It looks good but I mean the paint actually looks like a water based kids paint or something, but it could be that the pics are just too small and my eyesight isn't what it used to be. If the parts look that spotchy as I see them, then you might want to try finding some car spray paint. Non-fluro just go bright green same color.

also that cdrom looks uber stealth, as in.... it's not even in there.
post #18 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimeToKill View Post
the switches look great cutting carefully and precise with a Dremel can be difficult at best. Project is look great so far Subbed!
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gcampton View Post
This is looking good, probably not a lot of posters due to the first couple of pics. To me the green doesn't look good. It looks good but I mean the paint actually looks like a water based kids paint or something, but it could be that the pics are just too small and my eyesight isn't what it used to be. If the parts look that spotchy as I see them, then you might want to try finding some car spray paint. Non-fluro just go bright green same color.

also that cdrom looks uber stealth, as in.... it's not even in there.
Thanks for the info, that helps. No, the paint on the inside of the case looks good in real life. Especially so under UV lighting, which I'll have plenty of. For one thing, though, I don't have a real camera, have just been using my webcam (albeit a good one, Quickcam Pro 9000). This weekend I'll either buy one or borrow one, because I do realize otherwise there's little point in posting pics if they're not good quality. I'll update those pix once I have taken some better ones.

Re: the painting of the ccfl inverter, yeah, that was done with a brush, and a $1 bottle of Apple Barrel Fluoro Green, and did look pretty bad but I am scratching the idea of painting all the boxes, and instead am going to remove all the PCBs and mount them on a breadboard or a suitable alternative.

thanks for catching that missing dvd drive... I meant to just show a plain mesh front, but it does look like an invisible drive. lol.
post #19 of 38
Thread Starter 
So I bought a camera, but I realized I really need a tripod, now, too. For now I just made a quick one out of some thick wire & a 1/4" screw (gotta love that instructables web site!). I wanted to post some pictures of recent accomplishments, and show what I did today.

Here is the front panel sleeved, came out pretty good, I think.

and a shot of one of the cathode tubes that I sleeved, which were a bit trickier than I thought, just because the wires are so flimsy, it can be tricky to push them through the sleeving.


So up until this morning, I was going to put a spare UV Lazer LED (5 bulbs) in the front trim piece, which would make the mesh that I painted in fluorescent green show off, but I couldn't get it to look right. Instead, I had already ordered 20 green LEDs, just in case, and so I am putting 3 in each of the side mesh pieces, and 6 around the edges of the center mesh. I will wire them in series, in groups of 4, so they shouldn't need resistors, and will join all the red & black wires together, attach them to one of my switches, and I think it'll look pretty good.

Here's a shot of the LEDs glued into place, and another of the first string of 4 lit up, with lights on, and off:




Tomorrow I'll wire the rest of them up, finally put the wheels on my case, and install the trim pieces on the front.

I'm trying to figure out a way, too, of using these AC Ryan fans. I will be removing the fan blade, and then will attache them together, and use as a shroud on my RX240. But here's the rub: I'd like to be able to use the already wired UV LEDs, but once I cut the support arms, the little PCB will be dangling. I am thinking now, that I will try to mount the PCB on the outside edge of each fan, and extend the wires to the LEDs on the inside corners. It'd be so nice to be able to use the existing LED connectors which always did just light up the LEDs separately from the fan.

post #20 of 38
Thread Starter 
So I finished wiring the LEDs into place, and then I hot glued them into place in the wire mesh. Bad move. After I attached the three front trim/bezel pieces and wired them together, I added power and was terribly disappointed with the result.



Realizing I was going to either need to use some other kind of lighting, or diffuse the LEDs greatly, I tried a couple things. First, on the left side, I sanded the three LEDs as best I could (half covered in hot glue, as they are) and put a piece of parchment paper (something else might be better here) directly behind the mesh as a diffuser. Even if it works, it's not a great solution because the whole point of mesh is to let air through, and if I block the air, that's just dumb. Then in the center bezel as an experiment I only used a piece of the parchment. The right side is just the LED as they were before. I'm happier with the results now, and I could see that it might work. What I will probably do for the short term (I want to finish this case already!) is use all of the LEDs in just the two sides, and use something to diffuse the LEDs, be it plexi, velum, I dunno. Then at least the airflow is still good through the majority of the front, especially right in front of the fan where it should be clear. If I get a wild hair to really do it right, I'll try to remove all of the hot glue and properly sand each LED bulb, but that's not in the game plan at this point because with such delicate solders on the LED leads, it would mean that I'd probably be resoldering anyway... scratch that, it would probably mean buying more LEDs and starting from scratch again!


Left side: sanded, parchment screen
Center: parchment only
Right: bare

The center will still have some glow because I am putting the black CM 230mm fan that I painted Fluoro Green & added UV LEDs. In the end, this will work out much better I think than how it looks with just the bare LEDs. But I can see why paraleyes used cathodes, they diffuse without any extra effort, and if I had a pair of 4 or 8" white tubes I'd probably use them.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mod Work Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire)