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HAF 932 Lunar Frog (Le crapaud lunaire) - Page 3

post #21 of 38
Thread Starter 
OK, more on the LEDs... Gosh, the amount of time I have spent wiring, and sanding the bulbs of, and figuring out how to put them in is completely inverse to the price of the LEDs. I'm just glad I didn't find them any cheaper, because I'd still have a lot more work to do if so! (that's a yolk, son)

So I have 3 parallel series of LEDs, I believe that is the right terminology. Not using any resistors because from my understanding, the 4 diodes consume all the current through the circuit and therefore no resistor is needed to limit the current, since it is just right. I did have a little electronics learning drama yesterday, when I was testing some LED bulbs that I found under a machine. I thought they were either green or UV, so tested them very very quickly using the anonde/cathode legs stuck into my wallwort 12V/5V PSU. Well, oops, I touched one of them to the 12V line instead of the 7V and ooh, it sizzled, and crackled and Popped and exploded, very very loudly, and gave off a terrible stink, too. The bulb had literally exploded and I was glad I wear glasses.

My revised-original intent was to glue the strings of LEDs to the wire mesh pieces on the left and right side trim pieces. After looking at things, and realizing the bulbs are going to look better if they are diffused through some frosted plexi or similar material, I am setting down this revision of the plan: I will cut holes for each LED in the front of the case, mount them individually but still wired in series, using either LED clips or hot glue. Then I want to cover the bare LED bulbs with either a layer of hot glue, which acts much like Vaseline does on the camera as used in Hollywood circa "The Lucy Show" or latter days of "Dynasty". It softens the light. But probably not enough.

Yesterday I picked up a free scrap of thin plexi from Lowe's, and if my Black and Decker RTX ever arrives, Amazon... I couldn't believe that it took a full week to get my items just to the "shipped" status when all of them were in stock. Anyway, I'd like to see how the LEDs will look under the frosted plexi, before I cut holes in the front of the case (I am learning!) so I'll probably sand the plexi and test that out today.

Maybe if I get a wild hair I"ll even try to mod my Rheobus Extreme LEDs, but other than that, it is just about time to sleeve the remainder of my PSU cables and get my system moved into the HAF.

More later today,
post #22 of 38
Thread Starter 


I have finally got the front LED lighting close to where I like it. It's not perfect, and the strings aren't even installed really, just pushed inside so I could see how it would look. I put some hot glue around each bulb to help diffuse the light even more and hold the wiring together, and that was after sanding each bulb. The light is a lot a lot a LOT better. I also evenly spaced the 6 bulbs on each side. But I'm going to go further and fill the entire triangular area inside the mesh with hot glue to contain the LEDs, so the sides will be like glow-y chunks of plastic. If I don't like it, heck, I can always redo it.

But it is time to move *on*, to sleeving the rest of my PSU, which I probably will spent an entire day, or two, on, and then make the move to the new case. Probably my next entry will be after the move.

I'm worried about sleeving the 24 pin & the PCIE modular cables, because I started to sleeve the extra PCIE cable I have (the HX650 came with two, each one has two PCIE connectors, and I have a single GTX460, so I have a spare) -- but I got confused about the wires at one point and don't trust that it's good anymore. Also, I found it really tricky to try to make the cables line up right after they were sleeved. I think someone had a trick about setting down a piece of tape for the length of the cable, and cutting all the pieces of sleeving to the exact same length. That sounds like a good trick, hopefully it'll work. I want it to look good, but I am not going to kill myself over getting it perfect, either.

Compared to my previous cases and even my previous case mod, this one is already a vast improvement in detail and wire management, so I have to give myself a break.
post #23 of 38
The front panel is looking good with that green!
post #24 of 38
Well thought out and good progress. I was a bit concerned with how much green there was in the picture below, but after seeing the front panel and knowing a motherboard will be installed, I think it's going to come out spot on!

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post #25 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclometric View Post
Thanks!



Thanks for the info, that helps. No, the paint on the inside of the case looks good in real life. Especially so under UV lighting, which I'll have plenty of. For one thing, though, I don't have a real camera, have just been using my webcam (albeit a good one, Quickcam Pro 9000). This weekend I'll either buy one or borrow one, because I do realize otherwise there's little point in posting pics if they're not good quality. I'll update those pix once I have taken some better ones.

Re: the painting of the ccfl inverter, yeah, that was done with a brush, and a $1 bottle of Apple Barrel Fluoro Green, and did look pretty bad but I am scratching the idea of painting all the boxes, and instead am going to remove all the PCBs and mount them on a breadboard or a suitable alternative.

thanks for catching that missing dvd drive... I meant to just show a plain mesh front, but it does look like an invisible drive. lol.
Yeah i was referring to the green on the 5 1/2" bay, I should have been more specific. Looked terrible on first impression I almost clicked the back button and G.T.F.O. of this thread, but the inside of the case and grill and other pics do look good. Can't wait to see how it ends up.
post #26 of 38
Thread Starter 
Those $#%@#$ individual LED bulbs. . . I ended up scratching using those, and instead bought 2 30cm 5050 green strips from ebay... with my ebay bucks only cost $2.50, and the strips sit flush against the flat side edge of the side trim mesh inserts, so that the light doesn't blare out towards the front. It still does blare, but towards the sides. Might do a layer of hot glue on top, and/or sanded plexi to tone it down.

But they were easy to wire, and to hook together into a single 3 pin connector, which can go into either one of my front panel switches.



Took a better pic of the front lights, with the front fan UVs on, too, showing the green fan blades... and the switch on the top is powering the dazzle. But, yuck, not sure if any of you have seen those green LED duckbill toggles from Radio Shack, but compared to the vibrant green of the case and the LEDs, it looks like baby-poo-yellow-green. Oh well. It's fine for now. Those green military switch covers seem a better fit, so that'll be a down-the-road swap maybe.



I spent about an hour today sleeving my Sata data cables. Bought nice clean ones on ebay, that are 18" long (which is probably 10" too long but better that than too short). Since I'm using black CleanCut sleeving from FurryLetters for the majority of my cables, single sleeved, I wasn't sure what would work. But I found in my bag of "stuff" some 1/4" black sleeving, that must be basic techflex that I had bought in a kit a long time ago and never used. I wrapped the cables (red) in black electrical tape first, then fit the sleeving over, and it looks not bad at all. I do need to get some 4:1 heatshrink that will fit over the flat SATA connector, though, because I only was able to use more electrical tape to tape down the ends of the sleeving. It looks ok, but I can't trust it to hold very well.



Now that that's done, I moved on to modding those 120mm UV Green fan frames, and realized that trying to keep the existing UV LEDs on the little fan circuit board might be too ambitious (several wires already have fallen off their solder joints, and had to cut 4 of the 8 wires on each fan to remove the center of fan's frame. Heck, those fans are about 2 years old, so I should probably just get 8 new LEDs and wire them up. I think I'll just make the fan shroud and leave the LED lighting for after I have moved my stuff into the new case.



All that remains is sleeving the PSU 24 pin, 8 pin, PCIE, along with the pump and the extensions I will need to connect fans to my Rheobus Extreme.

Then I can move in, at last! Hope to get there by the end of next week.
Edited by cyclometric - 4/23/11 at 6:43pm
post #27 of 38
Thread Starter 
Found some 3/8" 2:1 heatshrink at Lowe's, which was a tight fit, but I used the trick I read about in the very helpful sleeving guide @ xtremesystems, which mentions slicing off the slightest bit from the bulky corners of the flat sata connector. Well, I'm not sure if the author of that article did it on all of the corners, but I did. All 4, both on the inside & outside corners. It is really not noticeable unless you are looking for it. Then I stretched the heatshrink pieces on the blades of a pair of closed scissors, turned ithe piece of shrink quarter turn around, stretched again, then took it off, and put it on flipped, and repeated. After all that, the shirnk slid on very easily and shrank nicely. It's holding the cables securely, and glad to have those down. ... better than elec. tape! The first piece (far right) is just a bit shorter than the others, prolly will redo.



Back to the cutting of the acrylic fan frame... fun fun!
post #28 of 38
Thread Starter 
Finished the shroud, which I built by removing the fan blade from 2 AC Ryan Blackfire 4 fans, which have UV Green frames. Then I cut away the motor and the 4 arms, and cut away one side from each fan. I glued the two frames together with hot glue, which I think I'll remove (with isopropyl alcohol, hot glue comes right off), and reglue the frames together with a more permanent plastic glue. I wired each set of 4 LEDs together, but only one set of 4 light up when plugged in. And the UV LEDs are really weak.

Not sure if it's worth replacing the LEDs, because I do have a spare 15" string of LEDs, which I could wrap around the rear part of the shroud, and I think that would light it up nicely when it's all in the case. I also have a spare 30cm strip of green LEDs that would probably look good, too.



So I moved on to trying to sleeve the Corsair modular PCIE cable, which is currently inside my case. I had already started to sleeve the spare one, but got confused and thought I had crossed wires. Plus, it just wasn't coming out very cleanly. So I stopped working on that one. Last night I shut down the PC, took out the PCIE cable and decided to remove about 4" of length from the cable. I cut the first cable about 2" from the plug that goes into the PSU, cut away the length, and then measured the remaining length for how much sleeving I would need. But I mis-measured, and ended up cutting 6 pieces that are all about 4" too short. Aaargh. I ended up sleeving just 2 of the first 6 wires, and then got frustrated and put the cable back into the PC. Not sure what to do now. I am not good at this PCIE sleeving and not sure if I have to patience.

I had planned on shortening the wires on the 24 pin, but I think that is on hold now, and I'll just sleeve the entire length as is. That's difficult enough.
post #29 of 38
Thread Starter 
<Posted most of the following in several posts in the 'cable sleeving gallery' and the 'HAF 932 Owners' threads, but the updates belong here as part of the worklog>

Can hardly believe I finished sleeving this beast of a cable (dual PCIE modular)... and cut about 4" from length... I'm going to test it later on today in my current rig just to make sure it works... hopefully it'll be fine... I made sure to make good healthy solder joints, but man, I need a better iron. I realized last night that the tips I have been using as replacements, from RadShack, have a slightly smaller thread and so don't fit right. So I'm constantly trying to tighten the tip but finally I've realized it's actually an ill-fitting tip, have to get the right one, or ditch this iron. 15 watts is enough for most computer/electronics type soldering, right? (LEDs, wires, etc.)



Next to sleeve: the custom cable I created to connect two cathode inverters to a switch (probably to the Rheostat Extreme, or a toggle) -- the tricky bit here is that the two power connectors for the inverters split off a single, so I have to sleeve a "Y", as in:



But I figured it out. Someone suggested I individually sleeve & heatshrink the connector cables first, then sleeve the extension and use a larger HS to cover the two other pieces. It worked!


I have to make an identical cable to this one, but can't until I tear apart my current system, which I'm going to do in about 30 minutes... yes, it's time... I'm going to be sleeving my 24 pin, 8 pin, the two modular molex connectors I'm using (though I might get away with just one, we'll see), assorted fan extensions, my water pump, and whatever else I haven't thought of. Then will be moving into the new case... hopefully will be back online tonight, keeping my fingers crossed!

Green 3mm Diffused LEDs arrive! These arrived in my mailbox on last week. I got 50 of them for $3.14 shipped, from California (arrived 1 day later!... beats those Hong Kong deals). I had already put two 5mm green LEDs in the front panel for activity & power, but those are way too bright, so these should work much better. Also will be using them to mod the Rheobus Extreme, but that's down the road a ways still, but hopefully not too far off. Hey, anyone reading this who wants some free, I'll have probably about 30 extra, I think they'll ship with just a regular postage stamp, so lemme know.



See you all on the "other side"! that is, unless I get super ambitious and connect in via Tapatalk... cheers & wish me luck!
post #30 of 38
Diggin the build! I always love the green ones.
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