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should I worry about my PSU - Page 2

post #11 of 20
I think i has been covered so far, but
IMHO
The PSU should work as long as you don't oc. And since you just blew your budget getting the new toy its not a bad idea to play with it at stock settings for a bit, save some cash up, then look into a bigger PSU.
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post #12 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooliobass View Post
I think i has been covered so far, but
IMHO
The PSU should work as long as you don't oc. And since you just blew your budget getting the new toy its not a bad idea to play with it at stock settings for a bit, save some cash up, then look into a bigger PSU.
It's not the size of the PSU that counts, but the quality. I could get a low-quality 850W for my sig rig, but it would still be no good for overclocking.
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post #13 of 20
When your PSU is junk, I think overclockability is the least of your worries really, considering what high ripple does to your components.
post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shub View Post
When your PSU is junk, I think overclockability is the least of your worries really, considering what high ripple does to your components.
What is ripple anyway? Is it when things like the +3.3V, +5V and +12V go up and down too much instead of providing more of a steady voltage?
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post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
What is ripple anyway? Is it when things like the +3.3V, +5V and +12V go up and down too much instead of providing more of a steady voltage?
I've got an article in it. Follow my sig.
post #16 of 20
Too be honest that coolmax probably isn't anything more than a 400 watt psu.
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post #17 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
What is ripple anyway? Is it when things like the +3.3V, +5V and +12V go up and down too much instead of providing more of a steady voltage?
Tiny fluctuations in the voltage. Ripple is present everywhere due to the fact that your power grid is AC and that it has to be rectified into a pulsating DC current BEFORE being filtered by the primary cap and also before the voltage is regulated.

Things like electrical noise and spikes cause fluctuations in the current, causing ripple.
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post #18 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo View Post
Tiny fluctuations in the voltage. Ripple is present everywhere due to the fact that your power grid is AC and that it has to be rectified into a pulsating DC current BEFORE being filtered by the primary cap and also before the voltage is regulated.

Things like electrical noise and spikes cause fluctuations in the current, causing ripple.
Thank you, Volvo! This is exactly the type of answer I was looking for (which I can see is obvious to you).
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It's a computer!
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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post #19 of 20
Glad to be of help.
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post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
The VL-600B has a +12V capacity of 450W (37.5A):

Yeah but I was concentrating on the Amp & Wattage available per 12v+ line (as the specified card consumed up to an approximated 200w) thus I didn't bother with the Amperage/Wattage spread...



Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post
The CXI-600B has a +12V capacity of 420W (35A):


(Newegg didn't have a zoomable image)

Both of them have enough power, but the problem is that they don't handle overclocking nearly as well as something like Corsair's TX or HX series (or Antec's TruePower New series).

Once again I was focusing on the individual 12v+ lines not the shared/spread wattage/amperage, strangely enough my source for specification of the CXI was the 2005 review @ Techgage and their data sheet stated 19A + 19A (there appears to be another B variant)






P.s. no need for post scripts no offence was taken
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