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Leak from Rad :( *Updated with Pics on Page 2*

post #1 of 49
Thread Starter 
So I just bought a rx 360 kit new to WC and I put everything in today after a long time of installing and it leaked... Fell onto my Seasonic X-750 a bit but I think if it dries it will be fine because the PSU did not short immediately. The leak is coming to the right of were I put in the first tube. I might have damaged the rad a bit from it hitting the case and maybe screwdrivers hitting it but I would not think that it would have damaged it severely.
Edited by Wubble - 3/25/11 at 8:48pm
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post #2 of 49
Post some pics. It might be a bad O-ring too.
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post #3 of 49
Hmm you might be able to salvage it. If you removed the fins around where you think the leak is and since I think the tubes would be copper you could probably just solder it. If your able to do so or find someone to, make sure you leak test it first before you reinstall it.
post #4 of 49
Thread Starter 
Ok will post pics in a bit, also PSU tried turning on the PSU didn't work and I heard a little noise like a crispy noise and then it just went away, really scared about PSU breaking now.
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post #5 of 49
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post #6 of 49
should have waited for the PSU to dry before turning it on again.
where is the leak coming from? fins? or fitting?
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post #7 of 49
Man you should have let you PSU dry out before you tryed it again.. You could also see if you'd be able to RMA just the rad otherwise my other suggestion might work too
post #8 of 49
ya sounds like you smoked your PSU

RMA the rad
post #9 of 49
Ok, First, you need to take your rad out. (I know, it's a pita).

Cover one port, and blow in the other. Air or water will come out where the leak is. It's possible you could have cut the tube where the top screw thread in ( I did this on mine on the bottom) I could see the scraped and small cut from the screw.


Step two. If you own soldering gun, solder, flux, it can be soldered. (This was my route for repairing)

If not, You can use a good epoxy, like JB weld. It's a 2 part epoxy. youmix equal parts together until the color is uniform (Gray for JB weld) Take a tooth pick and dab an ample amount where the cut/gouge is. You want to completely cover the hole. In roughly 24 hrs it should be sealed. a bit longer to be permanent.

To prevent this from happening again, use a small washer as a spacer. Alot of radiators are made assuming their may be a grille or shroud, or rubber dampener installed between the case, Fan, or radiator.

-Edit As for RMA, check to see if you caused the damage yourself. I know Feser won't cover screw/screwdriver, negligence damage.
Edited by gre0481 - 3/24/11 at 9:28pm
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post #10 of 49
Look my advice and so it would be the advice of any wc manucature is to do a draft install then once everything is installed and tubbing cut to specs you are suppose to either turn the system on with no components installed and check for leaks or take the whole system out and it run outside the case and check for leaks.

With that said I would take everyhting out and double check you didn't over tighten your barbs, check the o ring on the rad. If you can pin pint the location of the leak on the rad and it is a puncture you try to solder it or in my past i was able to get hot glue and patched up the whole and it worked like a charm for 2 years until i bought a new one for my new system.

I say hot glue gun LOL

On a side note i never had good luck with the plastic ties you have pictured for whatever reason it never worked for me I must be stupid LOL.
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