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NVIDIA GTX 590 Owners Club - Page 323

post #3221 of 5154
Quote:
Originally Posted by iARDAs View Post

Ok guys

I currently have a MSI Twin Frozr III 570

It is factory OCed @ 770/2000

If i go for a 590 how big a performance increase would i have?

20%?
50%?
100%?

Probably ~50% or more, on 1 monitor it whooped my 6850 xfire (better than 580) Being able to max out any game is nice, but it takes that $$$.
 
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post #3222 of 5154
I'm about to put my 590 under water, any tips on how to install the water block and take off the stock heat sink? It's the EVGA classified reference 590.
post #3223 of 5154
Start by watching all of Juggalo's videos. Here's number one.



Also, you have a PM.

Cliff notes:
Remove all visible screws from the backplate and back of card.
Remove backplate by gently pulling up.
Remove hex-shaped DVI port hole screw things by griping with pliers and unscrewing.
Remove two phillip's head screws on faceplate (with the DVI ports)
Remove TWO torx (t-4?) screws from each corner of the VGA card's backside. One holds the port faceplace and the other holds one of the corners
CAREFULLY pry the heatsink off.
Unhook the fan cable and LED cable
Clean the card
Follow WB manufacturer's instructions.


Shouldn't take more than an hourish, but go slow and be sure to look at everything you want to see. Oh and still watch Juggalo's videos before you attempt my cliff notes. He disassembles the 'long way' but it's important to understand how things are held together.
Edited by MKHunt - 12/12/11 at 6:58am
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post #3224 of 5154
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt View Post

Start by watching all of Juggalo's videos. Here's number one.



Also, you have a PM.

Cliff notes:
Remove all visible screws from the backplate and back of card.
Remove backplate by gently pulling up.
Remove hex-shaped DVI port hole screw things by griping with pliers and unscrewing.
Remove two phillip's head screws on faceplate (with the DVI ports)
Remove TWO torx (t-4?) screws from each corner of the VGA card's backside. One holds the port faceplace and the other holds one of the corners
CAREFULLY pry the heatsink off.
Unhook the fan cable and LED cable
Clean the card
Follow WB manufacturer's instructions.


Shouldn't take more than an hourish, but go slow and be sure to look at everything you want to see. Oh and still watch Juggalo's videos before you attempt my cliff notes. He disassembles the 'long way' but it's important to understand how things are held together.

I've watched his vids, TTLs video one from linus and one from danger den.
post #3225 of 5154
Just finished mounting the EK block. I have some recommendations that might help some people out. There are several areas that have extrusions on the block for contact, but the instructions say nothing about them. So I made a modified panel from the instructions.

jYINU5QFN7XKN.jpg

-The red bits are REQUIRED but not mentioned in the instructions.
-The blue bit is highly recommended.
-Orange is a personal recommendation. When I tested dry fitting, there was a bit more space between the NF200 chip and the block than I cared for. About enough for two to three sheets of paper. I feel that this is too large of a gap for thermal paste so I re-purposed my Koolance thermal pads. A well-compressed thermal pad will transfer heat better than loose TIM.
-The green is completely optional. My first Koolance block had direct contact inductor cooling and I liked that. These components CAN handle up to 65A of current, so I want them to be cooled correctly.

Also, hooray for MS Paint.
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post #3226 of 5154
Hello guys, I've just joined the club with a stock Asus 590. It gave me some trouble the first few days, but that's just because I mistakenly used a single rail for both power connectors on the card, sometimes there would be no current and BSODs ensued. Anyway, that's fixed now.

Nonetheless, I must say I am a bit disappointed: the performance is great, but I had read the card was particularly silent for a dual. Well, it's not for me. Playing Dragon Age 2, temperatures go sky high, about 86-87C at times, and the fan with default profile is like a twister. I tried changing the profile with Afterburner, but then the National Guard gave the wind from my case a girl's name, and had the town evacuated.

So first thing I'm going to do is buy a lateral window for the case (Bitfenix Colossus) with one or two silent fans, this lowered temps by almost 15C in my old rig. I hope with lower temps I'll be able to bear the noise.

But I'm starting to think about water-cooling too... I never got to it because I'm lazy, I like to build but I hate recurring maintenance: this card is almost convincing me though, love the performance but hate the noise.
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post #3227 of 5154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooperdale View Post

But I'm starting to think about water-cooling too... I never got to it because I'm lazy, I like to build but I hate recurring maintenance: this card is almost convincing me though, love the performance but hate the noise.

Video card noise is the exact reason I started watercooling. I am running a pair of 590 cards (EVGA with stock Hydro Copper blocks) and during gaming I run the fans on the radiators at about 20%. The loudest thing in my system is the PSU. When running every thing at full load (Folding@Home) the fans get loud from running them at 100% to keep things cool (all cores keep below 50C).
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post #3228 of 5154
That's very tempting I must say, full silence while gaming.

But it looks like I was rash to think the system is stable.

Even after using two rails to power the card, I can't run Unigine Heaven more than a few minutes. It either crashes or there's that damn "driver stopped responding" error and then the pc freezes...

I don't know what the problem may be, I haven't even tried overclocking yet... Temps are high, but not so high as to crash the card.
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post #3229 of 5154
I think my cup summarizes how I live and can I please join the club

what happen to the 590 can't buy anywhere now

2011-12-13_21-04-05_467.jpg
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post #3230 of 5154
The 590 was a limited run of cards. Anything that is up for sale is RMA stock that is being sold.

We really need to edit the op to include some of this info.....
 
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