Originally Posted by ProfeZZor X
This weekend I hooked up my wiring after flushing out all of my water cooling hardware, and the last thing I connected was my 590. Needless to say, after opening up the packaging I wasn't too happy with the length of the cables evga supplied, nor was I happy with the yellow wires sticking out in the two 8-pin connectors.
Does anyone know if there's a longer (matching pin) alternative 8-pin cable or extended power cables for the 590 out there? I tried the extended 8-pin at Fry's, but the pins didn't match.
I know that Lutr0 could make you some if you wanted...
I might be able to but, I'd need the connectors...I do have the sleeving, though...Hrm.
Originally Posted by Xraze
Masked, if my 590 was on water... what voltage would you recommend? Something that could push some good Mhz but not blow it up preferably.
I'm still kind of hot/bothered over the fact that someone tried to butcher Ohm's law in regards to "water cooling"...Really?
Temperature creates no resistance or acceleration on a graphics card because it doesn't thermally reach a point in either direction that it would have //ANY// effect on the voltage transfer...
Obviously, Joule's first law applies in relation to the thermal conductivity producing heat but, again, this has 0 effect on the load the VRM's can handle...It doesn't mean if watercooled they can handle more...That's absurd.
I'd have a good debate with you about acceleration/resistance on N2 but, in no/way/shape/form is that card STOCK at 1.06 -- No...Kingpin had to use an EVbot to legitimately BOOST the voltage and bypass the VRM's altogether.
Since we've had this discussion at least 20x, I'll repeat what I can say...If there's something I shouldn't have said, PM me and I'll edit it.
When this card was released, within a day, before it even hit testers labs, Nvidia discovered the VRM load was frying cards -- Actually, this was discovered in Feb but, only thoroughly tested on sample release...I was among the first to get samples (thank you UPS) and immediately following, 3 emails showed up in my box...All 3 stated the maximum SAFE voltage...It's 1.05...~ That's not 1.06v or 1.052 or 1.051, that's 1.050v.
Sweclockers had their cards at 1.2v ~ We've all seen the Vrms POP like a bag of popcorn ~ They just can't handle the load transfer at //ANYTHING// over 1.05v...
Like I said, I've blown up 3 of them...Sadly...And it was because the 1st core was overvolting (something I mentioned in a past post as well)...
While your primary core may be at 1.02v, there is a +/- .03 fluctuation, especially under load ~ Again, it is IMPOSSIBLE via Ohm's law for a +/- 10c change in temperature to effect the voltage transfer in this situation...So NO, watercooling does NOT prevent this from happening NOR does it raise your voltage roof.
When overclocking the card, that +/- 0.3 does change...Why? You're now demanding more load which, demands more power...Again, at 30c - 50c there is absolutely NO CHANGE to the amount of transfer the VRM's can handle.
If you're going to overclock this card, I would not SAFELY go over 0.95v -- Why?
It allows for max transfer, VRM load and overall, ensures you're not going to blow your card up.
I've blown 1 card at 1.00v because the load at 800mhz shot up over capacity and "snap crackle pop"...The other blew at 0.99v ~ and they actually blew within a week of each-other. ~ When I later tested the NEW cards under load, 1.00v became 1.05v on the 2nd core...The load was just unreal...
So realistically, as I said, your load on the hardware can fluctuate and I wouldn't go over 0.95 ~ Again, it's your card...Your investment...Ultimately your decision...But, don't be ignorant and think that water cooling "dissipates voltage load" because that's just about the dumbest thing I've ever heard on this forum.Edited by Masked - 4/16/12 at 7:01am