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Please Read and Help. Fried? - Page 2

post #11 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBcobra View Post
CPU even survive them.
Of course it can, but chances are another thing.
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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
I have triEd the suggestions and still nothing. I tested my hdds in another computer and they are ok. I am going to buy a new CMOS battery and give that a shot next. The router when plugged in blinks a sad little blink from the wireless icon even thought it has no cable Plugged in so I'm pretty sure is screwed up. I will report back after I try changing the CMOS battery on the mobo.
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post #13 of 23
Thread Starter 
Ok, Update time. Below are the things that I have tried:

Test PSU: Tested all connections on my psu with a connection tester and everything is giving the right volts.

Test HDDs: Tested both in another computer and can access both and all files look fine.

Test all fans and water pump from H50: All fans work fine and pump works fine.

Test Mem GPU & CPU: Cant really the only other comptuer I have is too old. The only new thing it has is SATA lol. It all looks fine visually though so heres hoping.

Change CMOS Battery: tried it with no effect.

So at this point I dont know what else to try. My mobo looks fine visually, like nothing has changed. ATM I only have 1 stick of mem in it and the cpu and water pump I would think it would at least give me a power light or a beep code. All I get from the mobo is a faint electrical beeping sound that starts when the psu is on and fades away when the psu is turned off. Any other ideas?
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post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
On the product wedsite it says it has a 3 yr warranty and I havent had it for a full year yet, but when it says to contact your reseller which is newegg. Should I try this? How does this work I have never had to return anything like this.
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post #15 of 23
Sounds like the mobo took a hit. If it says to contact the retailer you just send an email to New Egg's customer service department. You DO NOT want to tell New Egg that this was caused by a surge!
APC does offer a replacement warranty if it was hooked up to it at the time of the surge.
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post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 
I dont even know if that is why it happened. I just assumed it. The mobo looks flawless I really cant figure it out. It has always made a slight electronic sound since I got it maybe something just went out. I just did not want to go through the trouble if it is nothing. But at this point I am going to give up before I screw up another componet connected to it. You would think I would at least see a burnt up something.
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post #17 of 23
I also think you motherboard is toast...I had a problem a few years ago with a m3a79-t deluxe..Before you call or send newegg an e-mail, call Asus..I did that and they were really great to work with..they ended up cross shipping me a brand new board...I had to argue a bit with them but the in the end they did the right thing..BOL getting everything up and running again.
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post #18 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakattk View Post
Yes an APC one and it works fine didnt trip no burns nothing still going strong. I even tried pluging everything into another surge protector and still no go on the mobo.
Surge protector adjacent to a computer (and too far from single point earth ground) can bypass (compromise) protection inside a computer. Can make computer damage easier.

Destructive surges occur typically once every seven years. Most surges are made irrelevant by protection inside every appliance (including dimmer switches and digital clocks).

Others believe a power strip's hundreds of joules will magically absorb surges that are hundreds of thousands of joules. Or that its 2 centimeter parts will stop what three miles of sky could not. You may have learned reality the hard way. Time to install effective protection so that it need not happen again. Nothing adjacent to the machine provides effective protection.

Moving on to the failure. Does not matter what lights. Observations reports little that is useful. From your have posts, almost everything in that computer is suspects. You have two choices. Either keep replacing good parts until something works. Or get some important numbers so that the few who know this stuff can say with certainty what is defective.

Second option means a multimeter from Sears, Kmart, Wal-Mart, or most any store that sells hammers. Costs less than a good hammer. Then request what to touch. That one minute of labor means a next post will define what is good and what is bad - without speculation. Only that option means an immediate answer.

Most electronics failures leave no visual indication. Extremely rare is for something to burn. If swapping good parts until something works (called shotgunning), then what caused a failure remains unknown. If numbers from six wires are taken with a meter, then you will know what has failed. Also learn why it failed. And learn something about how a computer really works.

Bottom line: replies are only as useful as information that you first provide. Those who know this stuff best can post nothing if you do not provide those relevant numbers. Without hard facts, your only replies will be "it might be that" or "it could be this". And many posts begging for further help. Is it the motherboard? An answer from almost no hard facts is only wild speculation. Currently most everything in that computer could cause your symptoms.

Your choice. Start swapping parts on speculation. Or ask how one minute with a meter will result in definitive answers. Having swapped parts and after so many posts, what have you learned? Nothing. You are getting more "try this" and "do that for no good reason" replies. A useful answer starts by first buying or borrowing a meter. Which costs many times less than good parts you are buying and trying (on speculation).
Edited by westom - 3/26/11 at 4:21pm
post #19 of 23
Thread Starter 
I havent bought any new parts. I have only tested them in an older computer. So what would I test with the meter to tell me what is wrong?
The Bear
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CORSAIR 850HX HAF X G500 
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The Bear
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post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakattk View Post
I havent bought any new parts. I have only tested them in an older computer. So what would I test with the meter to tell me what is wrong?
Set the meter to 20 VDC. Black probe attached to the chassis. Find where power supply wires attach to the motherboard. Use a red probe to touch (measure) each wire by touching inside that nylon connector.

With a computer powered off and connected to an AC receptacle, measure the purple wire. Its voltage should be about 5 volts. Record that number to three significant digits.

Do same for the green and gray wires both before and when the power switch is pressed. Record both numbers for each wire.

And finally, monitor any one red, orange, and yellow wire as the power switch is pressed to report that behavior and final number.

Report each three digit number to learn what is good - without doubt - and what does not function.
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