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Adding PreWired LEDs to fans with switch

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I'm looking for a thumbs up (hopefully) on my plan to add LEDs and put in a switch to control 8 LEDs on two different fans in my new HAF 932. I think the plan is sound, but haven't heard much about people using prewired LEDs for fans so better safe than sorry. For some pretty, I've included a pic of the painted fan blades and how *****in' they'll look in the blacklight.

I have a 932 I am slowly but surely putting together. I have bought 8 prewired UV LEDs with resistors inline. I am going to replace the blue LEDs on the front fan, and add LEDs to one of the 200's. Then, I wish to have all 8 lights controlled by a toggle switch (I am using short duckbill 3 prong LED toggle, SPST) I have replaced LEDs in fans before, but never rewired them differently, and it's my first switch install. Both fans will end up with the same LED wiring pattern, but I'll have to do things differently on the front fan to separate its operation from the fan.

About these prewired LEDs. They are ready to be either soldered onto a molex or used in any other 12V application, no need for using an LED calculator since the resistor is already inline. When the + lead gets +12V and the - lead is grounded, the LED lights up.

For the fan without any LEDs now:
I'll put the LED bulbs inplace, then will splice the 4 anode(+) leads, and connect that to the switch ACC node. The cathode (-) leads on the LEDs will be soldered onto the fan's existing PCB; I verified that this wor, so hopefully it is a safe and trustworthy method. The switch will have its Power connect to a 12V Molex lead and its ground, to a PSU ground wire. (see diagram)

For the front fan, that already has LEDs, it will end up being the same, but first I will snip off the LEDs, and desolder the + wires from the board. Then its my choice whether to leave the - wires soldered on and cut the lead of the prewired LEDs, or cut the existing - wires and solder (you get the picture). After that, do the same treatment for the + LED wires, etc.

Any problems potentially? Anything that could be simpler? I've hope this diagram helps.



post #2 of 11
as long as you know what you are doing with your soldering you should be fine.
    
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post #3 of 11
you need a resister in series or you will blow them out here is a calculator to help you out
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post #4 of 11
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post #5 of 11
ahh ignore me duh already inline anyway yeah as far as adding them rock and roll i have 28led's wired up for my fans
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post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trooper1881 View Post
ahh ignore me duh already inline anyway yeah as far as adding them rock and roll i have 28led's wired up for my fans
Hehe, yeah, tried to make sure I highlighted that fact, so cool, thanks, it should work then. & thanks to the others, just was timid to start soldering without at least one or two saying go for it. My soldering skill are passble... not stellar, but I just upgraded from a butane Bernzomatic to a "real" 25 W so hopefully that'll help me improve.
thx
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
So I ended up having such terrible soldering skills so that I was pretty sure I would have ruined both fans if I had continued trying to work directly on the PCB. Instead, since I am working with pre-wired, resistor-added 12V LEDs, I just wired them one to the other, starting with the inbound 12V line, to the anode of the first led, then connecting the cathode of the first LED to the anode of the second, and so on.

So I have a +12V and a ground to connect to something... I figured I would add a 3 pin femal fan connector and do the same on the other fan, then I could use a Y splitter to connect them both to the switch.

I always imagined wiring in a molex onto the switch so that it could easily be connected to PSU power. But it looks like I'll need a second molex soldered onto the switch as well, to connect to the ACC (the leds).

The switch will get grounded from the PSU molex, so is it normal that I have to attach a second ground line to the ACC so ground the LEDs?

Here are a couple of diagrams...

post #8 of 11
I bought the pre-made cables for military switches, and it keeps causing my PSU to shut off. I can get the switch to function properly with only 2 of the 3 wires (but no LED), but if I add the 12VDC power to the "power" lug, it causes the PSU to shut down.

I have tried every combination under the sun for the 3 wires. When the PSU is powered up, 2 of the wires are 12VDC, and the 3rd is the ground.
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post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by deafmetal View Post
I bought the pre-made cables for military switches, and it keeps causing my PSU to shut off. I can get the switch to function properly with only 2 of the 3 wires (but no LED), but if I add the 12VDC power to the "power" lug, it causes the PSU to shut down.

I have tried every combination under the sun for the 3 wires. When the PSU is powered up, 2 of the wires are 12VDC, and the 3rd is the ground.
You must be causing a short when you connect it all up. What is it you are trying to control with the switch? Make sure you have a ground and the 12V power wire from that item wired into the switch harness so that the 12V power on the fan/light/whatever is going to the MIDDLE terminal on the switch. The ground goes to the ground terminal (they should be labelled on the switch, and hopefully you can trace the wire through the sleeving.

If you have the switch harness like the one in the picture below, you should connect one end to the item you want to switch on/off (a fan, lighting, etc.) and the other goes to a molex from the PSU. It's hard to tell from the picture but only one of those connectors has the wire from the terminal labelled "Power" -- that is the wire that should go to the PSU. The middle terminal, labelled "Acc" goes to the accessory to be controlled. Hope this helps.

post #10 of 11
That's the exact harness. I Have it wired correctly, testing it with a fan, but intent to turn on a water pump.

When wired properly, it will turn the fan on, but the LED will not light. It's pretty brainless, but yet something is jacked backwards. If I disconnect the ACC (middle terminal) the LED lights up. basically it seems the switch can't handle both the LED and the fan at the same time. I may just give up on the LED and just use the basic switch function.


Edited by deafmetal - 4/17/11 at 8:55pm
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