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Mid-Level Watercooling setup for GTX 590 & 2600k - Page 2

post #11 of 30
Thread Starter 
Okay, these are my findings..

Pump:
MCP350 - 55$
MCP655 (D5) w/o Speed Control - 67$
MCP355 - 70$
MCP655 (D5) w/ Speed Control - 77$

-The MCP655 seems to be superior (?), and I'm not sure if I need the speed control. It would be to play with it, as a beginner, to see how GPH changes performance.

Radiator:
XSPC RS360 - 47$
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360) - 80$
XSPC RX360 - 85$
Black Ice Gen Two Stealth 420 - 95$

- I realized I have two 140mm fans and two 140mm fan holes on my p190, so a 420mm setup sounds more fitting.. but the cheapest one I could find it 95$.. it's not worth it price/performance-wise compared to the RS360, right?

Tubing:

-Well, I could go with 7/16 (5/8), 3/8 (5/8), 3/8 (1/2) or 1/2 (3/4).
The price seems negligible, for the fittings as well, so I don't know what to choose.
Also, I wonder if I should get Primochill, Feser or Tygon.

Fittings:

- I am really confused about this. Many fittings claim to be "G1/4", which doesn't make sense because the MCP355 uses 3/8" and the MCP655 uses 1/2", according to spec.
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post #12 of 30
G 1/4 is the standard threading for blocks and radiators and pump tops and reservoirs. I don't knoW why the pumps don't use it but everyone recommends replacing the stock pump tops anyways, especially for mcp355s. almost any fitting you find wo be G1/4 an it doesn't impact the tubes in any way since the tubes don't deal with the threading of the fittings at all.

I like half inch tube because it allows more water through at any particular time and I knowmy pump can handle it without any problem(mcp355) just my $.02
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post #13 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
Okay, these are my findings..

Pump:
MCP350 - 55$
MCP655 (D5) w/o Speed Control - 67$
MCP355 - 70$
MCP655 (D5) w/ Speed Control - 77$

-The MCP655 seems to be superior (?), and I'm not sure if I need the speed control. It would be to play with it, as a beginner, to see how GPH changes performance.

Radiator:
XSPC RS360 - 47$
EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360) - 80$
XSPC RX360 - 85$
Black Ice Gen Two Stealth 420 - 95$

- I realized I have two 140mm fans and two 140mm fan holes on my p190, so a 420mm setup sounds more fitting.. but the cheapest one I could find it 95$.. it's not worth it price/performance-wise compared to the RS360, right?

Tubing:

-Well, I could go with 7/16 (5/8), 3/8 (5/8), 3/8 (1/2) or 1/2 (3/4).
The price seems negligible, for the fittings as well, so I don't know what to choose.
Also, I wonder if I should get Primochill, Feser or Tygon.

Fittings:

- I am really confused about this. Many fittings claim to be "G1/4", which doesn't make sense because the MCP355 uses 3/8" and the MCP655 uses 1/2", according to spec.
Here I'll make it simple:
-Barbs
-Tubing: If you want colored tubing look at some Primochill. Again stay with 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD tubing for a tight seal.
If you want a 140mm Rad stay away from the Black Ice GTS series, they are very restrictive and have a high FPI (fins per inch) which means you need faster/louder fans.
-Cheap 140mm Rad
-Cheap 120mm Rad
-140mm Fans
-120mm Fans
-Pump: It already comes with a top and it's controllable by PWM from the mobo.

Now you can get these items from PPCs, Sidewinders or Jab-tech. Find whatever combo with shipping is cheapest for you. I just linked the easiest ones I could get to.

Edit: Is it me or is OCN uber slow lately?
Edited by Seeing Red - 3/29/11 at 7:33pm
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post #14 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeing Red View Post
Here I'll make it simple:
-Barbs
-Tubing: If you want colored tubing look at some Primochill. Again stay with 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD tubing for a tight seal.
If you want a 140mm Rad stay away from the Black Ice GTS series, they are very restrictive and have a high FPI (fins per inch) which means you need faster/louder fans.
-Cheap 140mm Rad
-Cheap 120mm Rad
-140mm Fans
-120mm Fans
-Pump: It already comes with a top and it's controllable by PWM from the mobo.

Now you can get these items from PPCs, Sidewinders or Jab-tech. Find whatever combo with shipping is cheapest for you. I just linked the easiest ones I could get to.

Edit: Is it me or is OCN uber slow lately?
Thank you, I really appreciate that. I think we can wrap this up today.

Pump - I really like the MCP35X, but am wondering if it's not a better idea to get two MCP350s for the same price.

Radiator - I already have two 140mm holes on the top of my case, so I don't know if a 128mm-wide rad would look good. Is the EK Coolstream 420 a LOT better than the 360s? Because it's twice the price.

Tubing - So you're saying I shouldn't get a 1/2 ID 3/4 OD if I want a tight fit? Because 7/16 just seems a bit restrictive, or perhaps I just want the bling.
Also, how much should I get, in feet?

Fittings - So you're saying I need 1/2" barbs for 7/16" ID, as per your link? I always thought it had to be the same size. Oh, and I'd really prefer either chrome or a white-LED, since that's what I'm going for.. but I'll try to find that myself. Oh, and how many do I need?

Lastly.. is there anything else I need? What about the actual liquid and the anti-bacterial substance? I don't want to buy all the parts and realize I forgot one little tiny thing that I need.
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post #15 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
Thank you, I really appreciate that. I think we can wrap this up today.

Pump - I really like the MCP35X, but am wondering if it's not a better idea to get two MCP350s for the same price.

Radiator - I already have two 140mm holes on the top of my case, so I don't know if a 128mm-wide rad would look good. Is the EK Coolstream 420 a LOT better than the 360s? Because it's twice the price.

Tubing - So you're saying I shouldn't get a 1/2 ID 3/4 OD if I want a tight fit? Because 7/16 just seems a bit restrictive, or perhaps I just want the bling.
Also, how much should I get, in feet?

Fittings - So you're saying I need 1/2" barbs for 7/16" ID, as per your link? I always thought it had to be the same size. Oh, and I'd really prefer either chrome or a white-LED, since that's what I'm going for.. but I'll try to find that myself. Oh, and how many do I need?

Lastly.. is there anything else I need? What about the actual liquid and the anti-bacterial substance? I don't want to buy all the parts and realize I forgot one little tiny thing that I need.
If you get two MCP350s you would need a dual pump top which costs about another $56.

The EK coolstream will have 36% more surface area so it should cool better than the other. That doesn't really equate to a 36% increase in cooling as it depends on how much load heat you have. Make sure it will fit in your case as it will be longer and wider than 3x140mm fans.

Actually tubing size doesn't add much restriction at all. The difference in restriction between 7/16" and 1/2" is negligible.

1/2" Barbs also come in nickel plating. Stay with 1/2" barbs as the tubing is flexible and will fit over the barbs after you heat them up like I stated earlier. This will provide you with a tight seal and you won't have to use clamps if you don't want to.

For a antimicrobial you can use PT_Nuke. Just use one or two drops for your loop. Another option is a silver coil. Any .999 piece of silver jewelry or coin would work also. You don't need all of these, just use one or the other.
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post #16 of 30
7/6"ID is not restrictive at all...
As for the fittings then yes, with 1/2"ID fittings you will get a tighter fit.
Simply count the amount of components you in the loop and always remember they have 2 holes each (intake/outtake).

Also your gonna need either PT-Nuke or Silver Kill-Coil in order to prevent algae in your loop.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/sikibyia.html
    
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post #17 of 30
Thread Starter 
Okay, this is my first draft.



Obviously, I need to wait until tomorrow to get the GTX 590 block, which will cost 150$, or I can get it from EK directly for 100 Euro.

I'm planning on a completely White mod.. painting the inside of the case white, white LEDs, etc. so I need either clear or chrome parts. I'll probably paint the pump white as well.

Also, I'm wondering.. besides the tighter fit, why go for 7/16 ID when I can go for 1/2 ID.
Edited by Track - 3/30/11 at 10:04am
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post #18 of 30
Ditch the HydrX Coolant, use only distilled water... If your aiming for color then just use colored tubing since the coolant's gunk up your blocks.

You need 8 fittings by the way and you chose only 6, if it's because you chose fittings with the rad then you chose the wrong fitting size there
    
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post #19 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jclark View Post
Ditch the HydrX Coolant, use only distilled water... If your aiming for color then just use colored tubing since the coolant's gunk up your blocks.

You need 8 fittings by the way and you chose only 6, if it's because you chose fittings with the rad then you chose the wrong fitting size there
The additives have color?! No no no, I need it to be completely clear/white.

No, I thought I needed 6..

Two for the pump, right? Then two for the CPU block, then two for the GPU block.. OH, the radiator.. Duh!
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post #20 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowmanvmi View Post
2 pumps for two blocks is beyond overkill. The MCP will push a hamster through those tubes if need be.

A 480 does seem like overkill but I have a single 2500k and 6950 that it cools but its mainly there so I can expand to an additional GPU, cooling NB/SB, etc.

EK waterblocks seem to be the cream of the crop as of late.

Your choice of tubing is fine.

Fittings are as close to cosmetic enhancements as anything else in a water loop. You can get away with zip ties if you're smart and careful. Do you need to spend $50 on compression fittings? No. Will it look cleaner/better? Sure. Your choice. There is no performance drop either way.

Reservoir is also pretty cosmetic in the choices you have. It usually comes down to what fits/looks best with all the other stuff inside your case.
I kind of want to emphasize that there are minor pressure losses each time you add a fitting. In the real world, if you're designing a system to move fluid around you want the least amount of fittings as possible to avoid losing even a little pressure.
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