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Teach me to get my feet wet? - Page 3

post #21 of 37
Thread Starter 
I'm scared...I'll screw it up!!!

Maybe I should just buy a higher end air cooler......
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post #22 of 37
Run it with an external power source (a spare 'jumped' psu)...or, connect it to your psu, but disconnect 24pin and 4 or 8 pin cpu power connectors...and gpu connectors etc.

Make sure nothing else receives power.

And dude, no need to be scared. lol. you'll do fine.
post #23 of 37
Thats all I tested for and I had my pc all together,But I had a couple of towels lying on my components and all I had running was the pump.
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post #24 of 37
Thread Starter 
Okay, so I just put it all together (rad will have to go in first, then board...with block already mounted). Then connect the tubes. Then fill it I assume. Then leak test, with only power to the pump.....got it!

What about mounting? Will the block mount natively to 1155?
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post #25 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Okay, so I just put it all together (rad will have to go in first, then board...with block already mounted). Then connect the tubes. Then fill it I assume. Then leak test, with only power to the pump.....got it!

What about mounting? Will the block mount natively to 1155?
I think so.
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post #26 of 37
It may, but no mention of it...it'd be best to call and speak to a sales rep.
post #27 of 37
It certainly should be far easier to describe when you have the parts in front of you, so you can see what we mean. 1155 and 1156 have the same mountings I believe, so the rasa kit should fit fine. The kit also has all you need apart from the actual water (buy distilled from the supermarket or de-ionised from any hardware store).

The block fits to your chip just like a heatsink, the rad goes where it can get air, the barbs fit into all of the above so you can hook your tubing between each part.

Installation: Fit the block and barbs to the CPU, install the fans on the rad, and fit the rad. Find a place to put the reservoir where you can get to it, and the pump goes after the res in the loop. Fit barbs to the parts, and connect them with the hose, using the clamps to secure it. The kill coil can go into a tube or the res.

Leak testing: Put it all together, wrap all your barbs in kitchen towel, and fill the res. Don't plug in your rig, power your pump from an external source. Run the pump in 30 second or so bursts until water has made it all around the loop. Keep topping up the res until it maintains around 90% full. When it's at that point, then run the loop for an hour or 2 and watch for damp patches on connections. Fix any leaks or dribbles when you find them, and replace any damp towels with fresh ones.
After a couple of hours (1 or 2 is fine) with no leaks, and no new big bubbles appearing in the res you should be good to fire up your rig.
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post #28 of 37
Thread Starter 
That makes sense, thank you. And yes, 1156 = 1155 for mounting. I'm using the "1156" mounting on my Xiggy as we speak.

I might need to buy some fans while I'm at it too. My Delta's are great...but I'll have to ditch my fan controller to put my res in my 5.25 bay. So those Delta's and Sunon's that I already have are a no go, lol.
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Junkyard
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NAStradamous
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HTPC01
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Crucial MX100 256GB WD Green 2TB DVDRW Corsair H50 Push / Pull 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
NZXT 120mm fans strapped to stock 7970 cooler Windows 10 Pro Dell 3007WFP Dell 2007FP 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 2007FP Cheap Toshiba (R.I.P. Ducky) PC Power & Cooling Silencer MKIII 950w Cheap Garbage (free) 
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Logitech G602 Yardsale Special 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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post #29 of 37
I strongly recommend Gentle Typhoons for rads, they have the static pressure you need, but decent yates or deltas will work. If you're a little tight on money, then using what you have will work too.
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Ryzen 5 1600
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post #30 of 37
so what about the wet feet now?


;P




edit: if you´re unsure at anything, i bet there are plenty videos on utube or google showing people building that stuff you want from scratch..
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