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WC Parts ordered. Waiting begins.

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Well, i finally decided that WC might be worth it after all.

The issues i have with my machine:

-Noise from gtx480 fans, although the fans never realy go above 60-65% while gaming and even when idle'ing the 44% fan speed is too loud imo.

-I also want to get rid of the 'big' cpu cooler and its blue led, ofcourse i could just buy a non led cooler but well, lets dismiss that option.

-Another thing is that i just want a clean, nice to look at interior. And to be honest, i'm jealous of all the nice Watercooled rigs here.

- And ofcourse i want some higher OC on that CPU.

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<| Skyravr |>
Edited by skyravr - 3/29/11 at 2:18pm
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post #2 of 10
I went with a RX360 RASA kit and pretty happy with the outcome. My GPU's never broke 45c. And my CPU in around 55 - 60c at full load @ 3.8 Ghz. Here was my expense for the major stuff:

1) RX360 kit from jab-tech. $189
2) Thermochil tubing. $16
3) Two full GPU blocks. $170
4) Various fittings. $30
-----------------------------
Total: $405

If you need better fans, than that would be extra. And a few bucks for screws and stuff.
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post #3 of 10
I don't know if an extra thick 120 rad would make a difference for your temps but you could mount it on the rear fan. The 360 rad on top then the 120 rad on the back. Something like the RX120 or the XT 120.
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post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
So how would you make the loop?

Pump -> rad (360 or 120) -> Cpu -> Gpu's -> rad (360 or 120) -> pump?

or

Pump -> rad (360 or 120) -> Cpu -> rad (360 or 120) -> Gpu's -> pump?
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post #5 of 10
It doesn't matter what or when your connect various things in your loop. Just make sure your res is before your pump. Once the temperature stabilizes in the loop it will all be the same temp. Just route it which ever way will look the best and uses the least amount of tubing.
post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Well, i finally decided that WC might be worth it after all.
Excellent!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
-Another thing is that i just want a clean, nice to look at interior. And to be honest, i'm jealous of all the nice Watercooled rigs here.
In that case I would recommend using 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs, I think that gives the "cleanest" look as you don't need clamps, it is also considerably cheaper than using compression fittings. Have a look at this example on Million Dollar PC. Personal preference though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
- ONE loop (if at all possible)
Easily possible, and actually better for "normal" usage, like gaming.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
- Only 1 rad. A 360? bigger?. Is this possible?
Possible, just. The GTX 360 with high speed fans will cool your rig reasonably, but if you can fit another 120 on there somewhere it will be better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
- Other wants might follow.
They usually do

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Thoughts on parts :

- CPU : EK-Supreme HF full nickel
- GPU : EK-FC480 GTX - Acetal+Nickel x 2
Good. Be aware that EK are having some quality issues with the nickle plating on their blocks at the moment which seems to affect a few people.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
- Backplate : EK-FC480 GTX Backplate - Black. Is this worth it? or realy just a biiiiiig waste of money?
Worth it if you have ram chips on the back of the card, otherwise just for looks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
- I'll possibly also get a silver killcoil so i don't have to mess with 'special' fluids.
Good. I would avoid "special" fluids entirely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Yep, that will do the job reasonably with ~1800RPM fans but consider getting another 120 as I mentioned, especially if you do a lot of folding. Alternatively if you have the space to go push / pull on your rad then you can do it with the one GTX360 and 1800RPM fans.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Tubing and fittings are personal preference really, consider using the 7/16" over 1/2" barbs like I mentioned, but if you prefer the look of compression fittings then go for it. For your loop I would get at least 10' of tubing, it is cheap and always better to have too much than to run out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
For a reservoir I am looking at the Monsoon - RED with Black Trim - Premium - D5 Dual Bay Reservoir. Is there better?
maybe the XSPC Dual 5.25” Bay Reservoir?
I would go for the XSPC res for one Liang DDC, this way you can mount the pump in the res, which brings me to:

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Pump-wise i have no clue what will do the job.
A MCP355 or 35x is your best bet here.


A note one loop order, as Qazme said it is not all that important other than res>pump. The water is only slightly warmer coming out of a block than going in, at 1GPM it takes ~250W to raise the temperature by 1C.

Having said that, you are running SLi 480s, so the water is going to be ~2.4C warmer coming out of the GPUs, so it is probably worth hitting your CPU first.

Other than that go for the loop order that gives the shortest tubing run and the cleanest look.
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post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Not so sure about using 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. It looks GREAT but well, i'm still afraid it might 'pop' off unless someone can guarantee that its 100% safe ofcourse.

And i guess i can leave the pump top out of that list when i get that XSPC rad?

And about that push pull config, is it possible inside a HAF-X. If not i'll just add another 120.
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post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Not so sure about using 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. It looks GREAT but well, i'm still afraid it might 'pop' off unless someone can guarantee that its 100% safe ofcourse.

And i guess i can leave the pump top out of that list when i get that XSPC rad?

And about that push pull config, is it possible inside a HAF-X. If not i'll just add another 120.
You'd want to use clamps of course too. But 7/16 over 1/2 is just another level of security, because it's extra tight.

Push pull is possible inside HAF-X but it is tight.
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thank you all for the help guys. Lets hope it all come together well when i receive all the parts. I might need your help while putting it all together. I'm 99% sure i will
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post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Not so sure about using 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs. It looks GREAT but well, i'm still afraid it might 'pop' off unless someone can guarantee that its 100% safe ofcourse.
You won't even be able to pull it off, to remove it you will have to slit the tubing, it is that tight. In fact to get it on there you will have to heat up the end of the tube in some hot water or with a hair dryer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
And i guess i can leave the pump top out of that list when i get that XSPC rad?
Yep. That res incorporates a pump top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by catcherintherye View Post
Push pull is possible inside HAF-X but it is tight.
Cheers for the info.

Edit:

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyravr View Post
Thank you all for the help guys. Lets hope it all come together well when i receive all the parts. I might need your help while putting it all together. I'm 99% sure i will
No problem, if you are ever stuck just ask. Better to ask the question than to stuff it up. Take your time, do it right and enjoy it.
Edited by GingerJohn - 3/29/11 at 3:14pm
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