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*SOLVED* Lapped 1055T Overheating **UPDATED PAGE 3** - Page 2

post #11 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radius Kid View Post
Can you put the screws all the way in without the water block?
It might help to try them on their own just to chase the threads and see what kind of shape they're in.
Nope, same problem, I might need to use a small drill to create new threads in the backplate.

As I unscrewed the waterblock for the first time, it popped straight off with damageing the threads as a result :/
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post #12 of 29
Lapping its not about having a shine finish its about getting it as flat as possible cause you can have something shiny but still have uneven surface or lumps
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post #13 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_1771 View Post
Ohh, I see then.
Actually AS5 has cure time, that might be why it's high at first
Yeah I only use AS5 and after having it cured, temps only drop by at most 2-3 degrees..

The fact that the waterblock is not as snug as it used to be might be the source of the issue.

One of my hairs got in between my waterblock and cpu and that caused horrible temps. Like a 10 degree difference. So if there is even a hair's diameter difference between how tight the block is now, compared to before... I think that's your culprit.

I'm not a handy man, but if you rethread the backplate... wouldn't you need different screws?
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post #14 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doritos93 View Post
Yeah I only use AS5 and after having it cured, temps only drop by at most 2-3 degrees..

The fact that the waterblock is not as snug as it used to be might be the source of the issue.

One of my hairs got in between my waterblock and cpu and that caused horrible temps. Like a 10 degree difference. So if there is even a hair's diameter difference between how tight the block is now, compared to before... I think that's your culprit.

I'm not a handy man, but if you rethread the backplate... wouldn't you need different screws?
my Load temps with water cooling using Prime95 hits 54C, Previous temps before I removed the waterblock to lapp the CPU was about 41ishC load.

The waterblock barely get's lukewarm while understrees which there is barely any contact at all due to the bolt's not being screwd in tidy because the backplate threads are damaged when the block popped off
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post #15 of 29
Okay, so now that we've identified the issue, what are you gonna do? Rethread the holes on the back plate? Sounds like an adventure
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post #16 of 29
If you think it might be the as5 or the way you applied it-here is what i have done on all my systems-lapped the cpu to a fine finish not quite so i can see the color in my eyes, also lapped the cooler cold plate same way-than i tint both cpu and cold plate-than just a small dab of as5. I have always seen better temps that way-and also see my temps drop twice as fast after full load is finished.

Each time i have done this, my gain has vaired from 2c up to 6c than what i had befor lapping.

P.S. If you do a pretty good lapp job on both parts-you may not see any decrease in temps after the 200hr brake in period. normaly my drop in temps are right away, plus a tech from artic silver confirmed this with me when i asked them about this.
    
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post #17 of 29
Sorry to hear the threads got damaged.Didnt see the last couple post.
    
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post #18 of 29
Regarding the stripped thread issue... Why not using two females to block the bolt to the board, like EKWB backplates do?

That way you could re-screw the block all the way into the board
   
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post #19 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by doritos93 View Post
I'm not a handy man, but if you rethread the backplate... wouldn't you need different screws?
Eeyup,you'd need longer screws.
Sounds like the backing plate has blind holes.
post #20 of 29
By the way-if you have any or a buddy might-try a automotive thread tapping tool first-same size as the original threads, if that does not work-just use the next size up to retapp the threads, you dont nead to drill the wholes.
    
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