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Brand new Sandy Bridge system wont turn on - Page 2

post #11 of 29
<--- Speculating

Sounds like a bad PSU to me. Had similar issues last time my PSU was bad (brief fan activity, worked when jumpstarted and disconnected from everything else, etc).
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The Tightbouncer
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post #12 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstover17 View Post
If I jump start the PSU just hooked up to fans it will work flawlessly. But it seems with everything else hooked up and jumping the PWR SW on the MB it spins fans for 1 second or so and dies.

here is a review on newegg that sounds similar to whats going on ....

It has enough default cables to plug into my system.
24 pin mobo, 4 pin cpu, 2 HDD Sata, 1 IDE and 2 PCI-E 6 pins.
Plugging these in the system would not continously power then die before getting anywhere.
I unplugged a bunch of cables, added in a couple of the modular cable addon's and only ran one item per cable.
This allowed me to boot up at least one HDD, Motherboard and the PCI-E device.

I guess I can try to unhook some components and add modular cables.

* Edit Using modular cables instead of hard wired cables made no difference.
I had a similar issue.
Try booting with a different video card.
The solution for me: bad video card.
post #13 of 29
you have a bent pin cpu?
edit>PSU next suspect
Edited by M1 Abrams - 3/31/11 at 11:12am
post #14 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
I had a similar issue.
Try booting with a different video card.
The solution for me: bad video card.
Shouldn't the board try to boot even with a bad video card or no video card at all? I would think so.

*edit Tried 3 different video cards, all of which have worked in the past. Same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twister773 View Post
have you ever had the ud5 working? Anything is possible. What about the cpu fan itself being bad and shorting something out? Did you try another cpu in the ud4 or ud5 board? Just re-read, could you test the power supply with a multimeter to rule that out?
Both boards were opened today fresh. Tried the A50 and the OEM heatsink and both do the same thing on both boards. I don't have another 2500k to try in either board:/ I do have a multimeter but wouldn't really know what to look for in troubleshooting.

Last step would be a different PSU tomorrow. If not that then the chip must be bad.
Edited by bstover17 - 3/30/11 at 8:05pm
    
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post #15 of 29
Agreed.
If you swap out the PSU and nothing, then it MUST be the CPU.

How about RAM? If you haven't tried yet.
post #16 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
Agreed.
If you swap out the PSU and nothing, then it MUST be the CPU.

How about RAM? If you haven't tried yet.
Thats what I intend to do today hopefully. Tried the Kingston Hyper X 1600mhz 2gb with 1 dimm and then 2. I tried 1 stick of Gskill Ripjaws X 1600mhz 2gb and also 2 sticks. Also alternated what slots I was using to boot.
    
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post #17 of 29
Thread Starter 
Okay, swapping PSU's didn't work so well since both motherboards require 8 pin 12v power. I jumped the PSU and tested using a blue point multi meter. All of the readings were correct. Whats the chances of a new 2500k being bad?
    
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post #18 of 29
Do you have another 1155 CPU you can test with the other components? If not, go to a store, buy one and try it. Whatever are the results, you can bring it back the next day saying something like "HURR it isn't compatible I thought it was 1156" lol. Good luck anyway
     
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post #19 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHNS0 View Post
Do you have another 1155 CPU you can test with the other components? If not, go to a store, buy one and try it. Whatever are the results, you can bring it back the next day saying something like "HURR it isn't compatible I thought it was 1156" lol. Good luck anyway
The problem with that is the only store around here feels like they were "burned" by intel with the last stepping being faulty so they aren't ordering any 1155 components ATM.

I reapplied thermal paste and reseated heatsink thinking it wasn't secure. No help at all.

On the UD5 the following lights are coming on. CPU LED is blue which I am not sure if thats a bad thing. GD1 is Green which means normal working conditions and GD2 flashes yellow which is supposed to mean Excessive overvoltage or overloading. These lights flash momentarily and nothing else.
    
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post #20 of 29
Look at the manual, there should be a chapter dedicated to what lights represent. Also, do you have a debug led? I NEVER buy anything without one, it is almost VITAL for me now with troubleshooting.
     
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