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Gigabyte UD4 or UD5? Which is better for my setup? - Page 4

post #31 of 71
If you are trying to trouble shoot your motherboard having a power and reset button on their helps because you can run your system without a case which makes it easier to do...
post #32 of 71
Thread Starter 
What is the absolute hands down best p67 motherboard on the market at the moment. Price doesn't matter.

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post #33 of 71
P67A-UD7 or M4E
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post #34 of 71
Thread Starter 
Is there really much benefit of SLI with x16/x16 rather than x16/x8?
Edited by SHMaRiM - 4/2/11 at 12:52am
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post #35 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHMaRiM;12964750 
what exactly is the benefit of having power/reset buttons on the motherboard?

It lets you test the board without it being mounted in the case. Very useful for troubleshooting and for certain types of benchers.

For 95% of the rest of the users, the onboard Clear CMOS button is a far bigger deal. You simply have no idea how much more convenient a clear cmos button is, to recover from unstoppable boot loops or bad settings, than it is to fiddle with a jumper that's being blocked by expansion cards.

I've used boards with CMOS jumpers (obviously) for years, and the onboard Clear Cmos button on the UD5 is probably the most "WOW" factor I've ever had in any board I've ever purchased.

Anyway, stop agonizing over this purchase.
Here:

+UD5:
1) If you aren't short on money, buy the UD5.
2) If you've never used an onboard clear CMOS button, buy a UD5.
3) If you want to choose between slight vdroop down (LLC1) or slight vdroop up (LLC2, vcore rises slightly at load), choose UD5 (LLC settings may be further tweaked down the road).
4) Most of the Hwbot records are done with UD5 or UD7; the extra phases help with maximum overclocks. Not such an issue if you aren't trying to exceed 5.4 ghz.
5) Board overvolts compared to sensors, by about 0.03v,

+UD4:
1) If you're on a budget, go for the UD4.
2) If you don't mind only two onboard USB 3 ports (there's an extra USB 3 header, but you'll need your own bracket for that), go for UD4.
3) If you don't mind having one level of LLC, that works nicely (doesn't vdroop as much as on the B2 boards), get UD4.
4) The board overvolts compared to sensor readings, so when using LLC1, the REAL vcore is almost the same as the BIOS vcore, even though sensors have it about 0.03v lower.
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post #36 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sin0822 View Post
its Z68 and id go with the GB UD5/UD4 or teh Asus P8p67, you know what i tell this to epople all teh time in yoru situation, pick one that looks the nicest for your case if you have a windows, or fills the features you need if you don't. lol.
this. if you can afford it, the ud5 looks fricken awesome. only thing is it has only 6 sata ports. If you dont need more than 6 then that shouldnt be a problem. But it has 20 phase power, matte black pcb.

but i personally think the p8p67 deluxe is better bang for buck seeing how expensive the ud5 is. and for that matter the asrock p67 extreme 6 looks fantastic too.

what it boils down too is what features you like the most, and which company you feel the most comfortable going with. For me it was between gigabyte and asus. I was considering asrock until i read some horror stories of there customer service. Ive never had to rma with asus or call there tech support so i cant speak much on that, but i have rma'd with gigabyte a few times and they were good about it. received my replacements fast and painless.
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post #37 of 71
Just IMO:

Overall best: UD7 or Maximus 4E. I'd lean to UD7.

"Bang for Buck" leader: ASRock Extreme 6. ASUS P8P67 Pro and UD4 are also good boards in bang for buck. UD4 is easily the most aesthetically pleasing, at least in my eyes.
    
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post #38 of 71
I had 4 Asus Pros, selling one straight back from RMA. I would not recommend the Asus Pro. There is a lot of LED issues. My first one killed a processor (no I wasn't overclocking). Next two wouldn't boot into bios.

Switched to the UD3P. It's a decent board, but I liked the features of the Asus Pro while it worked. The UD4 only has LLC on/off, while the Asus's have 4-5 levels.

Since your not doing any crazy overclocking the cheaper boards would be better. Some of the $130 boards should have no trouble reaching 5ghz. I would recommend getting a cheaper board and buying a SSD.
Edited by cory1234 - 4/2/11 at 12:34pm
post #39 of 71
I've got both the UD4 and the UD5 not installed in systems but the UD5 just seems WAY more solid of a motherboard. I would say just having the power reset and cmos reset buttons would be worth it but also getting 20 phases and a better heatsink are a plus.
    
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post #40 of 71
Thread Starter 
I think I'm going to go with the UD5 after reading what everyones had to say. I'll order it up in a little bit. Now I just got to choose whether I should buy an i7 now or buy and i5 first and save a little money lol.

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