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First foray into water cooling

post #1 of 10
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I'm looking to WC my CPU. Its going in my sig rig and will have Noctua NF-P12s pulling through the 240mm rad exhausting out the top. Intake fans are a Noctua NF-P14 FLX in the side panel, NF-P12 and a Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm in the front. Exhaust fans are one NF-P12 in the back and two 5870 reference coolers.

Parts list

Edited by Darkcyde - 4/11/11 at 7:06pm
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post #2 of 10
You should be able to cool both the cpu and mobo block with the 260. (but would be cutting it really close). Adding the 120 could potentially end up hurting your flow which in turn will hurt your temps.

The Rasa kit should be fine for both. I have seen many people use that res/pump combo without much issue. If you are really concerned about it, look up reviews about it and see what people have to say. Its from XSPC so it really cant be all that bad.

IMO, I would actually probably skip the kit and grab a 355 with a pumptop+res, then fill in the blanks from there. If your going to spend the money on the mobo block, then I wouldnt cut corners. Grab a radiator, some tubbing and barbs. Might be a little more expensive, but you then wont have any doubt. But thats me.

doubt+water+computer=
post #3 of 10
For a cup only the rs 240 is a bare bones way to go. But if you wanna go with a chipset block as well I would highly suggest going with a custom kit over the RASA so you can grab a MCP355 which will give you plenty of pressure. I forsee the rasa kits pump having an issue getting through the restrictiveness of a chipset block and a cpu block. You are probably looking at 350 with that kit and chipset block. You could go custom ~100 for chipset block, between 40-80 for the cpu block, MCP 355 70-100 deppending on the top, and a thick 240 or 360 rad ~80 about 400 for a much better performing set up. This doesn't include fans/kill coil or pt nuke/ tubing/ barbs.

Edit: Oh and a res which can be a cheap T-line or a res anywhere between 20-100$ so 420-500 final price. Personally the chipsets on the asus boards dont really need to be wced but you can if you want. Or forgo the chipset block and grab the 240 rx/rs.
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post #4 of 10
I used the rx240 to cool a 1055t and it was awful. Temps went almost to 68°C when overclocking.
You would want a RX360 minimun. Unlike everyone says, a 240 radiator is not enough to cool an oc'ed cpu.
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post #5 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeL4 View Post
I used the rx240 to cool a 1055t and it was awful. Temps went almost to 68°C when overclocking.
You would want a RX360 minimun. Unlike everyone says, a 240 radiator is not enough to cool an oc'ed cpu.
I beg to differ. 68°c is not that hot. 80°c is the danger zone. beyond that, it depends on the block, radiator location, ambient temps, fans use, and if there are shrouds used, push/pull or single side fans. There are a lot of variables to account for to assume that this radiator cant handle the job. The TDW is also different.

I do agree though that it would be pushing the boundaries of the radiator, will not over whelm it. In a push//pull with shrouds, that radiator can perform really well, and keep his temps moderate.
post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeL4 View Post
I used the rx240 to cool a 1055t and it was awful. Temps went almost to 68°C when overclocking.
You would want a RX360 minimun. Unlike everyone says, a 240 radiator is not enough to cool an oc'ed cpu.
Yes 240s are perfect for cpu only. A 360 on cpu only is a waste. 70c is tolerable its what I run when gaming and folding is 66c on average. @80 is when you need to tone down voltages and clocks.

WC also is dependent on ambient room/case tepms depending on where you are pulling your air from.
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post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeL4 View Post
I used the rx240 to cool a 1055t and it was awful. Temps went almost to 68°C when overclocking.
You would want a RX360 minimun. Unlike everyone says, a 240 radiator is not enough to cool an oc'ed cpu.
My 1100T at 4GHZ loads at 59-61c on prime95 with my H50. I was hoping to do better with a true WC loop. I think I may just stack grip until I can buy proper parts. Thanks guys. Rep'd
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post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason4i7 View Post
I beg to differ. 68°c is not that hot. 80°c is the danger zone. beyond that, it depends on the block, radiator location, ambient temps, fans use, and if there are shrouds used, push/pull or single side fans. There are a lot of variables to account for to assume that this radiator cant handle the job. The TDW is also different.

I do agree though that it would be pushing the boundaries of the radiator, will not over whelm it. In a push//pull with shrouds, that radiator can perform really well, and keep his temps moderate.
68C is fine for i7, not for a phenom2. If I reached +68C with a 240rad , I think you will get +80C in a i7. However, it depends on the oc you are doing and the volts you're running. For a mild oc, a 240 radiator seems fine.
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post #9 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkcyde View Post
My 1100T at 4GHZ loads at 59-61c on prime95 with my H50. I was hoping to do better with a true WC loop. I think I may just stack grip until I can buy proper parts. Thanks guys. Rep'd
This sounds like the best idea. Just save a bit more and get parts that dont put you right on the edge. The more head room you have, the safer you'll be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeL4 View Post
68C is fine for i7, not for a phenom2. If I reached +68C with a 240rad , I think you will get +80C in a i7. However, it depends on the oc you are doing and the volts you're running. For a mild oc, a 240 radiator seems fine.
True, while a 240 will do the job, the ceiling is short. Makes wanting to push the boundaries less forgiving.
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Updated OP with final list for CPU only.
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