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Durable Adhesive for Mesh to Aluminum without Screws - Page 2

post #11 of 49
double stick will be pretty ghetto.
I'm not trying to knock your idea, I'm trying to help you make a better choice.

Screw holes are going to do a better job, and it will be a more professional job on top of that.

Think about this.
~radiators attach to hoses that add pressure from flexing
~radiators have fans on them that constantly vibrate
~A radiator will have water inside adding weight.
~not a lot of surface area that is flat, to add double stick tape ou a radiator

@ Smash...
I love that tape, and I'm sure we have all seen Bill's/MNPCTECH videos about it.

But the thing you have to rember is that you need a decent area to put the tape on to.

mesh has a lot less surface area than a flat substrate. As for a radiator, you got like 1/4" area around the sides to put tape on that is supposed to stick to mesh. I don't see that holding up very well.
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post #12 of 49
Thread Starter 
Oh, the radiator will not be taped onto the mesh. The radiator will be screwed onto the mesh. The only thing I did not want was the mesh being screwed onto the case.

But that is a lot of good points. It's a lot of possible force on the mesh. Thanks.
post #13 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmasherBasher View Post
3M #4010 clear double sided tape.
This stuff is godly. Contact Smasher, he has a ton of it.
 
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post #14 of 49
3M #4010 clear double sided tape.

I use this for windows, plexi inserts, and even to attach my Xbox Kinect to the top of my HDTV.

It is really good Stuff, Would I trust it to hold up a 360rad on to mesh... NO
not to mention mesh gets enough dust as it is with out adding Adhesive.

EDIT: 4010 is almost 1/8" thick. that means you will have a little gap between the mesh and the case, Epoxy or JB will work, Jb is stronger. But both will look bad in side the case unless you put some sort of trim over it like Acrylic. Seems like a lot of work for a (permanent) option, that is sub par as far as looks go. Some nice Finnish screws that counter sink will look better and be removable for cleaning.
Edited by cayennemist - 4/7/11 at 4:16pm
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post #15 of 49
Thread Starter 
I didn't think counter sink screws worked on thin metals. I understand how they work on wood, but I didn't know about the metals. Thanks for that Cayennemist. I'll go look around for counter sinking on thin metals and decide from there.
post #16 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Marker View Post
I didn't think counter sink screws worked on thin metals. I understand how they work on wood, but I didn't know about the metals. Thanks for that Cayennemist. I'll go look around for counter sinking on thin metals and decide from there.
Ahh you live here in SD!!!

There is a store here that sells unusual hardware. I cant remember the name.
Ill call my father in-law, he is the one who took me there so he might remember the name.

I'm a Finnish carpenter by trade, so I deal with stuff like this a lot.
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post #17 of 49
Thread Starter 
Ooo you do too. Thanks. Really appreciated. All I really want is for the top to be clean and flat, so if I learn how to counter sink screws into metal, I may do that just do that.

By any chance, you wouldn't know anyone around who does metal work would you? Like laser cut or water jet for a side panel window or top panel window.
post #18 of 49
Can I be the voice of reason here and ask why the HONK are you putting something filled with conductive liquid over the electronics in your case?

No, seriously... leaks happen. Just get some AC powered fans and mount it someplace safe.

The whole top-out ventilation thing for cases is awesome if you have ABSOLUTE control over the environment they are in. I remember bapping ping pong balls around for hours on the 4/110 while waiting for the printer to resize files from 100% to 100%, most fun I've ever had and beat the hell out of synchronized z-modem napping.

Dust comes in from above, much of it is electrostatic in nature and filled with minerals that are very unhealthy to the exposed conductors in a case.

In fact, get some AC fans, a ground-fault power bar, two extra lengths of hose and hang it out the window. That way it can be as loud as a banshee with a migraine on crack and not be a problem.
post #19 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Marker View Post
Ooo you do too. Thanks. Really appreciated. All I really want is for the top to be clean and flat, so if I learn how to counter sink screws into metal, I may do that just do that.

By any chance, you wouldn't know anyone around who does metal work would you? Like laser cut or water jet for a side panel window or top panel window.
There's a little tool pair that you can use, it has a screw and a counter-sink die.
look up "countersink sheet metal die"
post #20 of 49
Hot glue and double sided tape. I am serious perfect combo.


or duck tape
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