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Durable Adhesive for Mesh to Aluminum without Screws - Page 3

post #21 of 49
Thread Starter 
Voice of reason is always a good thing. Even though it may be dangerous, I like the look of an all internal WC setup. Also, thanks for the "countersink sheet metal die". I will read about it in a little bit.

EDIT: Hot glue and tape you say smile.gif I will keep that in my artillery as well. Thanks.
post #22 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdev;13041842 
Hot glue and double sided tape. I am serious perfect combo.


or duck tape
There you go Duct tape... then it will look very classy
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post #23 of 49
What do you have against screws? They would serve your purpose far better than any of these ridiculous ideas.
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post #24 of 49
First to address the OP's questions.
A glue or epoxy would work well for simply securing mesh to a side panel; though for mounting a rad I would recommend a mechanical fastener. The reason I say this is that there will invariably be tensile and or shear stresses on joiner due to the loading from bends in the tubing and/or when replacing tubing; a bonding agent can likely give over an extended period of time (especially with uneven loading, if not properly cured before use, and/or surfaces are not properly prepped before bonding) while a sufficiently sized mechanical fastener is very unlikely to fail.



Now to clear some things up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epitope;13038909 
If you mix epoxy glue correctly it is very strong stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epitope;13040409 
JB weld is an epoxy. Epoxy actually stands for an entire class of glue. Epoxy explains the chemical reaction that goes on to harden the glue. I'm guessing that "Epoxy" brand is a generic brand.
...
You only have a few minutes. If you want more time you can cool the glue down. The reaction partially depends on heat, so if you cool the glue down it will harden slower and you will have more time to work with it.

Wrong; epoxy is not a glue, but rather a form of thermoset polymer used as an adhesive or in composite materials as the matrix (bonding agent). Thermoset polymers consist of a resin (epoxy, polyester, vinyl-ester, etc) that when mixed with a hardener undergoes a chemical reaction that irreversibly cures the resin to a solid form.

Different formulations of hardeners (note these are also specific to the type of resin) can be used that allow varying working times at standard room temperature. Common working times are 5-min, 15-min, 30-min, 60-min, and 120-min; for large scale work 30-min and above are the norm, hobby/home use resins typically come with 5, 15, or 60 min hardeners.

While temperature has an effect on the working/curing times, it takes a fairly substantial temperature difference; i.e. putting the mixed resin in a 40*F refrigerator might prolong the working time by a few percent, but it's not substantial. If you want longer working times, just get an epoxy system with the appropriate hardeners. Just as an example of how much of a temperature difference is necessary to affect the curing times of thermoset polymers, companies that do composites work often put the layup in an autoclave or oven to speed up the curing process; they also use prepreg (fabrics that are pre-impregnated with mixed epoxies) which are kept in a freezer to slow the curing process.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Epitope;13040409 
JB weld is good stuff. It comes in rather large quantities though. Probably 10X more than you need. A small tube of generic epoxy will probably do the job and be a lot cheaper. Just be sure to mix it before application if it comes in a tube like this.

800px-FiveMinEpoxy.jpg

JB weld actually comes in fairly small tubes; the total volume is typically less that that in a tube you have shown.

I actually hate those tubes for various reasons. First and foremost, the plungers typically do not operate evenly and almost never provide the proper 1:1 by volume mix of resin and hardener; often you get a bunch of 1 before the other starts coming out of the tube and at the end there's a bunch of the other left over. The second reason is that the caps never really work right and it's always a mess getting them on or off. The third reason is that they're way over priced.
I prefer using the Loctite professional grade epoxies. Not only are that easier to use than the tubes, but also significantly more economical. A 0.87oz tube generally costs $5 while the 8oz professional kit costs $15; 9x as much product (actually more when you consider the amount of waste associated with the tubes) for 3x the cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Epitope;13040409 
Fair warning though. Epoxy stinks. Nothing terrible though, but it isn't great smelling. It goes away once the glue is set.

Actually regular epoxy doesn't really stink at all, they may have a bit of an aroma but nothing objective and doesn't emit toxic vapors.
Where you have to be concerned about the vapors is when working with polyester or vinyl-ester (aka marine epoxy as it's used on boats since gasoline does not degrade it, even so it's actually not an epoxy) resins. If overexposed to vinyl-ester or polyester resins (due to lack of proper ventilation) you can get sick, light-headed, etc; Syrillian can attest to this since he was using vinyl-ester resins when he first started experimenting with composites.
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post #25 of 49
Just screw it!
Pun intended:D
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post #26 of 49
Or if you have some sort of weird phobia about making holes in things, you can always solder it. You just need to make sure you are going directly metal-to-metal.
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post #27 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhillyOverclocker;13042747 
you can always solder it. You just need to make sure you are going directly metal-to-metal.

Depends on the metals you want to join; regular solder doesn't bond to aluminum, which is commonly used for newer cases.
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post #28 of 49
not to mention solder is (more)permanent.
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post #29 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdev;13041842 
Hot glue and double sided tape. I am serious perfect combo.


or duck tape

Both will eventually fail.

Use JB Weld.
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post #30 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by prjindigo;13041768 
Can I be the voice of reason here and ask why the HONK are you putting something filled with conductive liquid over the electronics in your case?

No, seriously... leaks happen. Just get some AC powered fans and mount it someplace safe.

This coming from someone who is still on a stock cooler doh.gif, please do research before posting an idiotic comment like you just did... besides distilled water is not that conductive and if you take the time to leak test (like we all do) you wont have a problem, also take your time putting your loop together...this is overclock.net not stockclock.net, take your trollin somewhere else...
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