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Durable Adhesive for Mesh to Aluminum without Screws - Page 4

post #31 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill;13042815 
Depends on the metals you want to join; regular solder doesn't bond to aluminum, which is commonly used for newer cases.


proof.gif I have soldered aluminum just fine. Not too sure about that much weight though.

Is the case aluminum?
Edited by PhillyOverclocker - 4/7/11 at 6:49pm
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post #32 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhillyOverclocker;13042978 
proof.gif I have soldered aluminum just fine. Not too sure about that much weight though.

Is the case aluminum?

There are specially formulated solders that are designed to bond with aluminum (not sure how strong), but common solder typically will not bond to aluminum.
There is also durafix, which is a type of brazing for aluminum, but it's fairly tricky to get a nice joint; certainly more difficult that brazing or gas welding, but those don't work with aluminum since the filler metal has a higher melting point than the aluminum.
If you really want something that can permanently bond aluminum to another metal, then get a TIG welder.

In the thread title the OP implied that the case is indeed aluminum.
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post #33 of 49
Thread Starter 
Woah, went out for a jog and came back to this. Thank you for all your help everyone.

I don't have anything against screws. I love screws. I just want the top of my case to look as clean as possible. Like the top of the TJ07. It sounds like in the long run it will fail without screws, so unless I find someone to solder the mesh for me, I will have to find some kind of bracket mechanism.

Yes, the case is aluminum and I'm assuming the modder mesh from PPC is aluminum as well.

Well, thanks again everyone and reps all around. I'll eventually figure something out.
post #34 of 49
This thread is funny... a lot of arguing.

Lets look at the facts
Solder~Too permanent, Ugly appearance, more complicated
Epoxy~Too permanent, Ugly appearance
JB WELD~Too permanent, Ugly appearance
3M 4010~not enough surface area for adhesion, Attracts Dust,may not hold

SCREWS~Durable, Aesthetically pleasing, removable, paint-able, swappable, versatile.

here some nicer looking ones
gripscrews.jpg
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post #35 of 49
Thread Starter 
smile.gif Eventually when my stubborn self gives up on a clean top, I will use screws. Way to go on your crusade! wheee.gif

Oh and you didn't know anyone around SD who did metal work did you? To cut some aluminum panels for me. I've cut several windows out before, but I'd rather pay someone professionally to do it this time.
post #36 of 49
I have been thinking of your problem.
If you really don't want to see screws, there is a way. You could make a bracket that holds the rad in place.

I would rather you not spend money on this and learn to do it your self. This is a job you can do.

look in to welding/braising Aluminum. You could weld/tack/braise a aluminum bracket on.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGy7pHx6P3Y&feature=related[/ame]

I have a feeling you can use a map gas torch and some braising solder. after it is set in place you could use a Dermel to grind away the excess solder

Discoloration of the aluminum is inevitable so I would then recommend painting.

EDIT: Is all this fuss over a Antec 900?
Edited by cayennemist - 4/7/11 at 8:31pm
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post #37 of 49
Thread Starter 
Hah, no this isn't about an Antec 900. I have a Lian Li V2010 coming in and I just don't want to mess up.

Thanks, I'll read up on welding/braising Aluminum.
post #38 of 49
Welding is a bad idea unless you paint the case.OP,do yourself a favour and grab some JBWeld putty.You knead it for a minute,roll it out into a thin line,lay it out around your opening,lay down your grill and weigh it down.1 hour later it is hard as a rock.http://www.shopwiki.com/_8277-J-B-Water-Weld-2oz-White-Stik-Putty-Epoxy?o=445890923&s=82557
http://www.toolschest.com/wtd1534.html?mr:referralID=0abecdcb-6191-11e0-b827-001b2166c62d
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post #39 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoodz;13044284 
Welding is a bad idea unless you paint the case.OP,do yourself a favour and grab some JBWeld putty.You knead it for a minute,roll it out into a thin line,lay it out around your opening,lay down your grill and weigh it down.1 hour later it is hard as a rock.http://www.shopwiki.com/_8277-J-B-Water-Weld-2oz-White-Stik-Putty-Epoxy?o=445890923&s=82557
http://www.toolschest.com/wtd1534.html?mr:referralID=0abecdcb-6191-11e0-b827-001b2166c62d

I used JB on a Tranny pan that hit a rock. That was 3 years ago...
Its still rick hard with no leaks... So That is also A idea. If you make a bracket to hold the rad, you can put it over the JB and hide it so you have a clean look.

:thumb:on the JB idea
as long as its under something so you cant see it. JB weld is like a dark grey/black color
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post #40 of 49
Basically all radiators sold for W/Cing PCs have screw holes pre-drilled; the simplest way of mounting them to a panel is to drill matching holes in the panel and then simply thread the holes in the rad (generally 6-32 machine thread) then a screw can pass through the panel and thread into the rad to hold everything in place. And with the plethora of screw head styles available, you're bound to find something that will accent your case rather than stick out like a sore thumb.



BTW Guys, there are big differences between welding, brazing, and soldering; they are not synonymous to one another.

Welding chemically bonds the two materials by melting the material around the joint to form a weld pool which, when cooled, forms a strong joint.
Brazing and soldering on the other hand do not melt the base materials, but rather only heat them up to allow the filler material to adhere and bond them together. The difference in soldering and brazing is that the fillers used in soldering have a melting point below 400*C (typically below 350*C) while the fillers for brazing have a melting point above 450*C.
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