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Project: ELEMENTABLE RV2 (Custom Desk Build) - Page 2  

post #11 of 287
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furball Zen;13057413 
CO's
I also picked this up: (And i highly recommend getting this instead of bulk)
Thanks Furball. Those NTE packs look nice for $9.72.

Let me apologize now for the quality of the images. I swear I'm doing my best... They will get better. You'll see. tongue.gif

The subject at hand. A small oak butcher block style dining table. The legs, frame and tabletop are all blocked together with finger joints.
3be1.jpg

Obligatory Dew tower shot. You'll see much of this.. and no.. I'm not sponsored by Pepsi co.
Sanding the old finish off. No chemicals! mad.gif
It's proving quite difficult. I swear this thing was soaked in stain and then assembled...
3be2.jpg

The top measures 32x48x1 and the frame 29x45x2.25. We're going to expand the frame to 30.5x46x7.5 leaving an inch lip on each side.
On the width though the table top will be flush with the back of the box giving us a slightly larger 1.5 inch lip on the front.
3be3.jpg

This is what the corner blocks that the legs bolt into look like. About 5 inches long with opposing 45 degree angles on both ends and predrilled counter sunk screw holes.
We'll make our new blocks 5x5 to strengthen things up and like it's predecessor predrill and countersink it. In fact because we're using pine we'll be doing that to just about every screw hole throughout the project.
3be3aa.jpg

A few basic needs. All together less than $80 if you shop around. Not the greatest tools but we're not building a house. A touch of patience, a steady hand and a lot of sandpaper can make for some beautiful cuts.
3be3a.jpg

I can see it already... that I have some more sanding to do.
You can see I was thinking about two pieces of glass at one point.
That plan was scratched straight away. Decided on one large piece and already have it all worked out.
3be4.jpg

Here are our new 5x5 corner blocks, lengths for the frame and the piece we'll be using for the bottom of the box.
As you can see the four corners of the frame are going to come together at 45 degree angles.
3be6.jpg

Here's a better view of the bottom. This stuff is called pine project block or project board. It's a pretty simple board blocked together with biscuit joints I believe.
The strips are about an inch and a half wide. You can pick up a 25x45 sheet at your local Home Depot for about $25. I grabbed up 2 for what we'll need at Lowe's instead iirc.. they had a better selection of sizes and were of much better quality.
For the box we're using 1x8 pine boards. A little on the soft side for my taste but we can cope for a measly $7 per 6ft stick. Four should be enough but I snatched up 5 just in case.
3be7.jpg

Screwed together only in the corner blocks here. You can see my rather horrible holes for the leg bolts.
I got impatient for a moment and used the largest bit I could find side by side. I'll have to file them out a bit I'm sure. It's okay though.. we have plans for those corners later to shine them up a bit.
3be8x.jpg

Off to get a new set of paddle bits!
post #12 of 287
Thread Starter 
There no more shoddy holes. Just under $8 for the lot.
3be8a.jpg

You can see that my 45'd corners aren't perfect. A few adjustments in the corner blocks first.
Then once we get the bottom flushed out and screwed in we'll get the outer corners all squared away.
3be10.jpg

We've made cutouts in the corners where the legs insert. The cut was roughly 3x2.25.
3be11.jpg

3be12.jpg

Here's the bottom. Corners are 45'd, edges are cleaned up nice with 100 grit sandpaper and it's ready to go in.
3be13.jpg

Almost everything will be held together using these 2 inch course thread drywall screws. I have an assortment of 1 to 1.5 inch #8's when we'll need shorter.
They've been laying around collecting dust for a couple years. Free is a very good price.
3be13a.jpg

A run of masking tape to make sure the countersink bit and the pine play nice.
Then we'll mark a line down it to help make sure we get all the screws straight.
Lets shine a little better light on it.
3be14.jpg

Looking a little ugly.redface.gif
Below you can see one of the two screws that I ran through the leg corner blocks into the bottom piece.
3be15.jpg

The line is down and layout marks made for the holes.
3be17.jpg

Fairly clean.
We want our screws nice and flush with the wood surface. Again because the pine is such a soft wood we'll hand turn every screw so we don't blow through it.
Besides... who doesn't want a nice strong grip? biggrin.gif
3be16.jpg

3be18.jpg

The rear of the box.
Initially I didn't want to screw the corners together. There's no way around it though.
Once they are bolted in tight the pressure that the legs will put on those corners will push them apart.
3be18a.jpg

Only the back corners have been screwed together on the outside.
There's still a bit to do before we take care of the front corners.
3be18b.jpg

It's looking like the bottom is going to grief the lower washers and nuts that hold the legs on.
Nothing a little chisel and hobby knife can't fix.
3be19.jpg

A little to figure out here.
At the top is the heavy drawer slides we'll use for the keyboard tray. Cost $10-$12 at Home Depot depending on the length you get.
Ball bearing type slides on a triple rail system. Smooth, sturdy and snap into place when closed to stay put.
They are 14 inches in length while closed, double that when extended and can hold upwards of 120lbs.
3be20.jpg

3be21.jpg

3be22.jpg

A better view of how short our bottom piece fell. It's alright though. We only need to fill in the corners.
The yard stick and drawer slides show approximately what we'll be cutting out to make room for the tray.
3be23.jpg
Edited by sprower - 4/9/11 at 4:07pm
post #13 of 287
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprower;13055501 
http://cableorganizer.com/nylon-multifilament/

There ya go. Looking at it again it's looking like all bulk lol. Still for the 1/8 it's a great price.. Maybe I'll go masochist with this and do it up in all 1/8th sleeve.rolleyes.gif

Yup it looks pretty close the the same quality as the stuff in your pics.

That stuffs expensive. Why not use 550lb paracord? Its the same stuff but its only $7 per 100ft.
post #14 of 287
Yea, but this stuff is what you want if youre gonna spend some money on it.

http://cableorganizer.com/nylon/
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post #15 of 287
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philistine;13066746 
That stuffs expensive. Why not use 550lb paracord? Its the same stuff but its only $7 per 100ft.
Thanks! That stuff looks great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furball Zen;13067898 
Yea, but this stuff is what you want if youre gonna spend some money on it.

http://cableorganizer.com/nylon/
Nice price for that but still too much of a plastic look about it. Seems silly I know since it'll hardly be visible.


Here we've cut out the area for the keyboard tray and added a couple blocks cut from the scrap.
3be24.jpg

These blocks will serve as the frame for the keyboard area.
They are tiered so that we'll have enough space under there for everything and still allow for some decent airflow through the case with fans and radiators nearly right up against them.
3be25.jpg

The 2 inch screws are used here.
Additionally there are two screws drove through the front board into the blocks.
3be25a.jpg

A little gap to fill.
3be25b.jpg

Piece cut.
3be25c.jpg

I make all my cuts a hair longer so everything is nice and tight even after a little sanding.
This calls for a scrap block and rubber mallet
3be25d.jpg

In.
3be25e.jpg

And the other side.
3be25f.jpg

I've kept all the scrap from the bottom pieces that are 45'd
It'll hardly be visible but we'll use the scrap to fill in the gap up above in each leg block.
Visually this will keep a nice uniform woodgrain pattern flowing from the top of the block to the case bottom.
3be25g.jpg

A shot of the bottom.
Pesky flash.
3be29.jpg

Turn it around and add a little back light?
Bah! Bad angle... even worse lighting. gunner.gif Still working on it.
3be28.jpg

Here we see the area cut out of the front for the keyboard space.
Initially my dimensions for the lower tier of the keyboard tray were sized exactly to match the size of the drawer slide.
I quickly found out that this would cause the tray to not be even with the bottom of the box. This won't do.
So for continuity's sake I lowered the slides and corrected that issue. It does cause the rail to hang below the bottom of the box about a quarter inch.
It's hardly visible though and the rails are nice and smooth with rounded edges so there's no fear of snags or getting cut.
3be30.jpg

The wife said she could take better shots. But who could work miracles with such horrible lighting and a grim subject at hand?
That's me laying out the keyboard tray. Go Ducks!
3be31.jpg

Eeeesh.. bad cut. Gogo file and a touch of sanding.
These nubs cover the space the slides take up between the tray and the box. With the tray closed we should have around an eighth of an inch gap on either side.
3be32.jpg

Tray complete. Almost.. I still need to put about an inch wide hole toward the rear of it to run wires through for the mouse and keyboard.
Did I mention I'm hand sanding everything as well?
3be33.jpg

Installed!
3be34.jpg

Fully extended the tray comes out 15 inches from the outside of the box.
3be35.jpg

3be36.jpg

3be37.jpg

Nice and flush.
3be38.jpg

Top of the leg and its boltyness below right.
3be39.jpg

The tray can be easily removed by opening it up and pushing two plastic tabs on both slides. Then it just slides out the rest of the way.
3be40.jpg

The slides are screwed to the tray and box with a couple of the screws they came with to line them up and the rest are the 2inch screws previously shown.
3be41.jpg
Edited by sprower - 4/9/11 at 9:21pm
post #16 of 287
Nice, are you gonna put a front on that and hinge it?
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post #17 of 287
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Furball Zen;13068706 
Nice, are you gonna put a front on that and hinge it?

I don't think so. I've pondered it and in the end I don't really see the point except to keep it dust free while not in use.
The point of those on most pieces of furniture you see them on is to hide the fact that there is a keyboard and mouse inside. I think everyone will agree in the end... when you first lay eye's on this you'll have no doubt right away that there is a mouse and keyboard hiding somewhere.

Though if I did end up doing something like that it would have to be garage door style and swing up and into the case.thinking.gif
post #18 of 287
To me its more of the flow of it. All this slick looking stuff, then you leave a gaping hole in the front lol. Then you could go all stealth and sink a cabinet lock on either side to lock it when people are over, of in case you have kids. That way you stuff dont get jacked around and settings ruined, or..."hey whats this delete button do" as you watch your Windows folder go poof lol.
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post #19 of 287
Thread Starter 
You do make a couple good points though I trust the company I keep and if my boys know anything it's not to touch dads stuff without permission. wink.gif
post #20 of 287
I just wanted to comment on that mighty collection of mountain dew you have there. It's mighty. 300+ cans will last you how long?
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