Lets move on to fitting the legs.
As I pointed out when we screwed the bottom into place we don't quite have enough room for the lower bolt, nut and washer on each leg.
It needs to be just a bit lower for the legs to seat up against the frame properly.
So we will carve out some nice little pockets for them.
A couple sharp chisels and the hobby knife set.
Grandadacto! This guy feels like a couple pounds in the hand compared to the younger generation. Love it!
Here we are. Need to clean the edges up a bit with the hobby knife.
They're sloped toward the back so I didn't have to remove the bottom to square out the front of the divot.
I didn't want the them too large. Regardless... in the grand scheme of things they'll be nearly invisible.
I know this one looks off but it's actually the hole that's off a touch. It won't show though.
Keeping the divot short means we'll have to slowly feed the bolt through while we tighten the nut.
We can't have all that extra bolt past the nut. Lets cut that off and shine them up.
Cut the top with the dremel.
I said to myself.. "Self? Wth were you thinking with the tape?".
Got half way into the second and... durr.. mark em, pull em, and do this out of the box.
Woo old case panels and blue tape!
Horrible metal work is horrible. I am without a doubt of the carpenter variety.
Did these with nothing but a dremel and a few decent hand files.
I'm not even going to embarrass myself by telling you how many days I spent on the four interior and the two front exterior corners.
Still need to work out screw holes..
and find some short shiny pan head screws for them.
Got to flush that one screw out a little more.
The rear interior corners roll up over the edge like this while the front are flush at the top of the block.
What is that over yonder?
Below that at the top of the corner blocks you can see we also added the piece to fill in the gap.
Remember we saved our scrap from the 45'd cuts of the box bottom? A little trim and they fit perfect.
Onto the glass for our top.
After some careful measuring I decided to center the glass perfectly in the middle of the table top. This will give us 6.25 inches of wood top all the way around.
Remember back again that the top is going to be flush with the rear edge of the box.
Centering the glass on the top will off center the view into the case. I plan on monitors/mounting system to come over the table top approximately 7 inches.
This will give us a better view of the goodies inside especially those mounted on the upper lid of the keyboard area.
After lining out the placement of the glass I measured inside that line just under a quarter inch all around and made my cuts.
Making the cut just short of a quarter will ensure that the glass has a little wiggle room when we use a quarter inch router bit to create the lip that holds the glass in place.
Very straight, very vertical cuts. If they aren't true the router work around the cut to hold the glass will look wavy as these cuts will serve as the bits guide.
Not too shabby here. A little burn in from the blade will sand right out.
Some chisel work in the corners to straighten up what the jigsaw missed and we'll be ready router.
As for the tape.. I'm not worried about this chipping or splintering. The wood is pretty darn hard and the router bits sharp.
It's the guide on the router. I've had it snag on cuts and as stringy as the fiber of this wood can get on the surface it can cause it to crumple up like loose rug for a nice shredded chicken look.
Hopefully the tape will help to avoid that.
And that it did. You can see a touch of this woods fibrous nature.
Just need to chisel out that corner and square it up.
Some sanding and it'll be perfect.
At this point I'm thinking... "I don't like the way the two types of wood mix.
Next time: More router work, mounting the top and more!Edited by sprower - 4/13/11 at 10:30am