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post #11 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by revlimiter View Post
I wouldn't bother with water cooling the GPU. I would go for an EVGA GPU and then use the EVGA Precision Overclocking software. It's amazing how much more performance you can get out of that, and even more if you don't mind a few artifacts here and there.
Uh.. A few artifacts here & there is considered an unstable graphics card. You will and should never have artifacts if you have a stable overclock/card in general.
post #12 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Peen View Post
The lower the voltage the better if you aren't planning on overclocking your RAM. The Vengeance 8GB kit have the same timings as the Dominator kit settings, but at a much lower voltage. Dominators run at 1.65v stock, while the Vengeance kit runs at 1.50v stock. The reason Dominators are always recommended for overclocking is because they come at a higher stock voltage, leaving your with more headroom to overclock your RAMs voltage.

And yes, the H60 and H70 are really great coolers for their price. I own the H70. The H60 is the same thing as the H70 just noticeably quieter for a little bit less cooling performance. It's only a CPU cooler, it's not like an actual watercooling kit. You attach the pump the the CPU like you would any other normal heatsink, attach the Rad to the back fan slot and then hook up your two fans to the Rad.

GPU cooling is definitely not my field. All I know is unless you're going to be over-volting your card to levels that the stock air cooler can't cool, that's when you'll want to go custom water cooling for your GPU/s.
Should the red word be Vengeance? Also, RAM OCing is all within the BIOS settings correct? Not like OCing CPUs and GPUs. If so, then there is no chance I'm attemping it. And I would have to agree with you, I'll sub the RAM now. Wow, that's going to save me some money lol. It'll work with my mobo selection, right?

With the H70, even though it's a little louder, you can manage how hard it is working, correct? Like a knob, that is on my Tuniq Tower.
    
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post #13 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Peen View Post
Uh.. A few artifacts here & there is considered an unstable graphics card. You will and should never have artifacts if you have a stable overclock/card in general.
Ah.. I learned something new today. So the game can actually crash when artifacts appear on screen? It has never happened to me (yet) but I do notice the game runs at a higher framerate when artifacting, and from what I can tell the area of the screen and polygons are blacked out and flicker because the GPU can't keep up.

Just to clarify, I don't play games with artifacts in them, but when I was overclocking my GPU for the first time I was testing some settings to determine how high I could take the clock speeds.
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10TB 7500RPM SATA3 64GB Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 (Boot Drive) Lite-On IHAS124-04 DVD RW Windows 10 Ultimate 64-bit 
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post #14 of 62
Changing DRAM Frequencies/timings/voltages is all done within the BIOS, yes. It's like overclocking a CPU, but a little different since they're different settings in the BIOS. RAM has a huge effect on overclocking a CPU at a certain clock speed. Unless you plan on doing "extreme" overclocking, you won't need to worry about overclocking your RAM. I easily got 24/7 stable @ 4.5 with advertised RAM timings/voltages.

The H70 unfortunately doesn't have a knob or anything to control the pump speed and what not. You have a few methods.

1. Buy a fan controller for maximum fan performance.

2. Disable all fan control options in the BIOS so your fans and pump are always full blast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by revlimiter View Post
Ah.. I learned something new today. So the game can actually crash when artifacts appear on screen? It has never happened to me (yet) but I do notice the game runs at a higher framerate when artifacting, and from what I can tell the area of the screen and polygons are blacked out and flicker because the GPU can't keep up.

Just to clarify, I don't play games with artifacts in them, but when I was overclocking my GPU for the first time I was testing some settings to determine how high I could take the clock speeds.
If you're getting artifacts it means your overclock is not stable and you need to go back and increase your core/memory whatever it may be you're overclocking. If your GPU is artifacting it can cause a display crash, yes. In most cases though, Windows restores your session after the display crash. However, depending on the situation taking place your computer might crash if you can't end the process that initiated the crash in the first place.

For example, say you're at all stock settings and you want to overclock your GPU. Say stock core clock is 500 and you bring it to 600, and it starts artifacting. That means you've reached your clock limit, or went over it. To determine what your final clock limit is, all you do is drop that number until the artifacts completely disappear.
Edited by pjBSOD - 4/9/11 at 3:37pm
post #15 of 62
Thread Starter 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145341 Would this be any better? It is 10$ cheaper. A lower voltage. And it looks to be compatible with my mobo, I believe?
    
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post #16 of 62
Same timings, lower voltage 1.50v. However, it's 1333. You can get 1600 for even cheaper.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-144-_-Product

Those run at 9-9-9-24 2T. Stock voltage is 1.5v.
post #17 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Peen View Post
Same timings, lower voltage 1.50v. However, it's 1333. You can get 1600 for even cheaper.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-144-_-Product

Those run at 9-9-9-24 2T. Stock voltage is 1.5v.
ooooo looks nice. So I should probably go with that set of RAM, eh?

And lastly, the GPU. Like I said, I'm a bit of an Nvidia fanboy, you could say. However, nothing will stop me from getting the better solution per price. I'm a bit skeptical with all the noise of the 590's blowing up left and right. Specially in the news headlines here on OCN. Is there still reason to get the new EVGA 590? Or should I wait for them to fix it, and get like a 550 or 560 in the mean time? or just go for the EVGA 590 anyway?
    
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post #18 of 62
Indeed. That would save you some cash and it's really nice RAM. Like I said, since you're not going to overclock your RAM that RAM is perfect for you since it has nice voltages, decent timings, it runs at 1600mhz, and it's cheap. Even if you wanted to with little to no effort you'd be able to overclock the RAM from 1600mhz to 1866mhz. You just won't be able to go much farther than that.

The EVGA 590 is a card that was only in production for a limited time. They're not making any more, so if you want to get one the time is now. Nothing is really wrong with them either. When the card first launched people were bringing the card over its advised voltages and still using the beta drivers, so the card ended up dying, burning out, etc.

If you use the newest and latest drivers and stay within the advised voltage limit, you'll be perfectly fine.
Edited by pjBSOD - 4/9/11 at 5:44pm
post #19 of 62
Thread Starter 
I'm sold on pretty much every part in my build but the GPU. It's difficult slapping 700+ on a card that I know will be out dated in a year. It's like when I got my 280, I spent like 500+ and now it's a piece of ****. If it comes down to it, I'll get the 6990(or 590). But is it likely I should wait a few months for whatever may come next? And get a 200$ card for now? I want to get the 590 but its sold out on Newegg. And like I said before, I'm not a huge fan of ATi. Never liked their driver updated. And see some games have issues with their cards sometimes. But if I can't get the 590 from Newegg, I'll get the 6990. Any suggestions for this?
    
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post #20 of 62
If you ask me, the 590 will last you a very long time. The performance that thing provides is absolutely ridiculous.
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