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Silverstone Raven RV03: User review, lessons learned, and build log - Page 9

post #81 of 425
Looking at your pics and the pics of the Seasonic X750 that I recently ordered from Newegg it looks to have the same mounting holes that the PSU you got in there does so I think Seasonics should work. Nawon does yours not work or were you just pointing out another observation?
DSCF2164.JPG

IMG_0044.jpg

img0183kn.jpg
Edited by juano - 4/18/11 at 6:34pm
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post #82 of 425
I was just pointing out what SilverStone said in the manual. It's on step 3 of the install guide.
Quote:
Insert the power supply from the right side of the chassis. Since the 5.25” drive bay is located directly above the power supply cage,
we designed the mounting holes for power supply to fit only one direction. Please double check the mounting holes before installation.
Normally a power supply with 120mm fan or larger will have its fan pointing down when installed.
So it's not talking about the length of the power cord, but the mounting holes in the case itself.
img0183kn.jpg
Just look at where the screw holes are placed for the PSU. They said in the manual that your PSU may not work with the fan facing down due to the placement of those screw/mounting holes.

@Balthazor Are you done your build yet?
Edited by nawon72 - 4/18/11 at 8:12pm
post #83 of 425
Yes but what I'm saying is that the Seasonic appears to have those exact same holes in the exact same position when oriented with the fan facing downward ergo the Seasonic should work without issue. Are you saying that your Seasonic does not work? If so then exactly why not? Because the holes appear to line up.
Edited by juano - 4/18/11 at 8:26pm
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post #84 of 425
Quote:
Originally Posted by juano;13182869 
Yes but what I'm saying is that the Seasonic appears to have those exact same holes in the exact same position when oriented with the fan facing downward ergo the Seasonic should work without issue. Are you saying that your Seasonic does not work? If so then exactly why not? Because the holes appear to line up.
I think your making too many assumptions, while i was just pointing something out that nobody has yet mentioned on this thread. My PSU should work but i havent actually tried it(im waiting to see what happens with my case).
post #85 of 425
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawon72;13183562 
I think your making too many assumptions, while i was just pointing something out that nobody has yet mentioned on this thread. My PSU should work but i havent actually tried it(im waiting to see what happens with my case).

Ok well since we're telling each other what we think, I think you were being too vague about what you were trying to say, and raising concerns that you could actually very easily prove or disprove but choose not to. It was mentioned previously in the thread that the PSU can only be installed in one orientation. I was trying to determine if you were merely repeating this or bringing up a new complication that would mean Seasonics don't work, you can understand why this might be important to me seeing as I just ordered a Seasonic PSU and plan on getting this case. It seemed to me that you were just raising questions about whether a Seasonics will work without providing any answers when you could very easily give people the complete picture rather than just part of it.
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post #86 of 425
Thread Starter 
The manual is just saying it only has mounting holes to allow one orientation when you mount a PSU; I mentioned this in my original post, but maybe I wasn't clear.

This limitation was one of the factors complicating my issue with the socket orientation and power cord length, for if I could install the PSU in one of two orientations I could simply flip my PSU upside down to get the socket 'turned over.'

Most PSUs that meet the depth requirement should work fine, as long as they do not have to be installed with an intake fan facing up.

Looking at your seasonic it appears it will install fan-side down.

I am still waiting for my CPU and RAM, and I ordered a black version of my chosen heatsink, so that is coming as well. Otherwise it is wired up and ready to go.
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post #87 of 425
Balthazor pretty much just summed up what i was trying to say.
Quote:
Originally Posted by juano;13183966 
I think you were being too vague about what you were trying to say, and raising concerns that you could actually very easily prove or disprove but choose not to.
The only way to prove or disprove it would be to look at every PSU on the market, and that's not an easy task. That's why SilverStone said it may be an issue, and to check your PSU beforehand. So if it's too much work for SilverStone, then it would definitely make my brain explode. laugher.gif

And sorry for not realizing you were very concerned about your PSU possibly not working.doh.gif I was trying to address everyone/'s reading/PSU, and not just a single PSU since i thought it was obvious the SeaSonic would work(though i have not tried it myself).

P.S. - I'm not the best at explaining things, but i try.
Edited by nawon72 - 4/19/11 at 12:43am
post #88 of 425
Balthazor, Nice build!thumb.gif

1 question:
You have installed a rear intake fan. Why intake? Are you aiming for that intake to supply fresh air to the nearest card? (blue arrows in pic)

Which 120mm fan are you using and what is its operating rpm?

And kudos to the following insight. +rep.
Quote:
GPUs and 90 degree cases
3 x 580 GTX GPUs installed. I used reference 580s because their cooling works well with the RV03's cooling methodology; heat flows from the 'bottom' of the card, as installed, out the top. Most (well, all that I found, actually) non-reference cards blow their hot air all over the place with no clear channeled exhaust. This doesn't mean you can't use these cards with the RV03 or other 90 degree cases, just that they won't benefit as much from the unique cooling potential of the RV03. AMD cards are similar; their reference design will work well, but you may want to examine non-reference designs as a consideration before buying. If you are going to be liquid cooling your GPUs then this is not going to be a concern for you.
post #89 of 425
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by windfire;13187137 
Balthazor, Nice build!thumb.gif

1 question:
You have installed a rear intake fan. Why intake? Are you aiming for that intake to supply fresh air to the nearest card? (blue arrows in pic)

Which 120mm fan are you using and what is its operating rpm?

I'm not sure that the rear fan will do much as either intake or exhaust since the reference 580s I'm using have their heatsinks covered at that point (so cool air brought in will have minimal impact) and their hot air is exhausted out the top (so an exhaust won't be serving much purpose, either.)

By way of theorycrafting and amateur thermal guessengineering I reasoned that if the case is supposed to take advantage of positive pressure (more air in than out) and thermal dynamics (heat rises) that I should have all fans set to intake except the one at top (and, of course, the GPUs.) Any excess hot air will be exhausted out the top because of the positive pressure effect (air will attempt to escape out the case, and this will naturally happen up as hot air rises.)

What I may do, once setup and Windows installed, etc, is to run a few benchmark tests with and without the rear intake fan running to see if it makes much of a difference.

But I figured I had little to lose; I wasn't using that 8th slot for anything, so why not put a fan back there. It may not do much, and I seriously doubt it would worsen performance, but I'll test and see.

I'm using Noiseblocker M12PS PWM fans, which run 500-1500 RPMs, on all my 120mm spots. From the tests I've read these are some of the quietest fans around. Not the best for radiators, but then I'm making this an all-air build, so that wasn't a concern this time around. I'm putting a M12P model on my CPU heatsink, which runs 1000-2000 RPMs. The AP-181 180mm fans can do 500-1300 if you use a fan controller or controllable motherboard header.

I wanted some good PWM fans because my motherboard has 5 x PWM fan headers, and you can control all of them through Speedfan or Gigabyte's motherboard software. So I'll be able to setup some fan profiles and use the onboard temp sensors to minimize noise but crank up the fans when needed.
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post #90 of 425
Windfire from what I understand the RV03 is designed to be a positive pressure case not just a balanced or neutral airflow bottom to top design, so that's why the rear would be an intake.

That's why when I get this case I will be installing front intake fans despite the fact that it would "flow better" with my internal exhaust GPU if they were exhaust.

I've seen a lot of your advice regarding airflow around here and I agree with almost all of it, but in this case (whether to have front fans intaking or exhausting with regards to an internal exhaust GPU) I feel you give up too much overall cool air getting inside the case just to maintain the "path of least resistance" design philosophy. I think that while the path of least resistance will always be better than a path with more resistance in most cases higher airflow in the case is always a better thing assuming that you don't make a huge mismanagement like having two equal power fans directly opposing each other or the like.

Luckily with a case like this where the entire top is open my philosophy of "just get as much cool air in there as possible and let the hot air work itself out" shouldn't be a drawback.

I don't want this to come off as me saying your philosophy or all the great advice I have seen you give is wrong, so I hope it doesn't. I'm really just thinking out loud and bouncing ideas off of you. smile.gif

EDIT: I was typing this at the same time as Balthazor, but it's nice to see that you interpret the case as primarily positive air pressure designed same as I did. You do know that the AP181s are controllable by two high low switches in between the watercooling grommets and the front panel I/O, right? So you can at least have two options without a controllable mobo header or separate fan controller. One more thing and seeing as all your 120s are PWM this should be pretty easy to do, I would make the top exhaust the fastest out of all your 120s, I would actually probably have it as high as you feel like tolerating noise wise, and then all the other ones a few hundred RPM less than it.
Edited by juano - 4/19/11 at 7:25am
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