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Custom Alu Blocks & Corrosion

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Sup guys,

I was looking at a TEC project which would include 3 liquid loops and some custom water blocks, ideally aluminium would be easiest to work with considering that it costs about nothing and copper costs absolutely loads.

The thought of things like this struck me however:

Why you shouldn't mix Alu+Copper. Another Horror History.

The thought did strike me however...


What about using some copper sulphate and a bit of electrolysis to copper plate the aluminium block.

Would that work? or react anyway?

Or is it best to just bite the bullet and get copper blocks?
    
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post #2 of 6
Coatings and platings work (at least in my work a day business of aircraft), so long as one is careful not to damage (in the slightest) the coating itself. Barring that the only thing that comes to mind is after enough use, checking for exfoliation and intergranular corrosion. Certainly if your milling your own gear Al is the way to go, and once you settle on something making a go of it with Cu.
 
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post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Since I'm working on two loops, I might just mill the cold loop from copper and make the hot loop from alu.


Most car rads are alu so I might look at car rads and pumps, I don't really know how power hungry they'd be, but I know car rads can dump some serious heat.
    
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post #4 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabid View Post
Since I'm working on two loops, I might just mill the cold loop from copper and make the hot loop from alu.


Most car rads are alu so I might look at car rads and pumps, I don't really know how power hungry they'd be, but I know car rads can dump some serious heat.
Theres a guy on here that used some motorcycle rads in a loop, and had some pretty good results. The downside is that the automotive rads are designed for a much larger temp difference (delta) and in the pc loop, the water is hardly 2-3c above ambient (normally) at equilibrium. Probably get some good results by just upping the fan pressures though, that plays a big part in the equation.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...repetitas.html

link to his build on motorcycle rads
Edited by Soggysilicon - 4/10/11 at 9:06am
 
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post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
The for the link, but I was thinking more along the lines of:






It might be a little hard to ensure none of the copper is scratched off the blocks too, I'd prob have to design them in sure a way I could make sure that doesn't happen.
    
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post #6 of 6
You'd need a lot of pumpage to go through that and pressure. Id recommend one without plastic tanks.

Look into oil/transmission coolers with cores like coolant rads. You would have correct connections instead of having to mod a 2" hole.
Edited by Rangerscott - 4/10/11 at 9:44am
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