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Recommend me a watercooling setup. - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by noshibby View Post
So with the parallel block I need two links correct?

Also I'm not overly concerned with the increase in temps that my hard drives would give if it makes them damn near perfectly silent.
You would only need one of those parallel blocks, just put them on the blocks and bam just get your tubing in from one and out the other and water will go through. Also I'm not 100% sure but I don't think that watercooling your HDD's would make them silent because they do not have a fan the noise is coming from the hard drive spinning and watercooling would not make the hard drive stop spinning.
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post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wubble View Post
You would only need one of those parallel blocks, just put them on the blocks and bam just get your tubing in from one and out the other and water will go through. Also I'm not 100% sure but I don't think that watercooling your HDD's would make them silent because they do not have a fan the noise is coming from the hard drive spinning and watercooling would not make the hard drive stop spinning.
Perhaps however encasing it in metal will make it quieter.

Also I'm aware I'd only need one of the parallel blocks, but it mentions something about links.
post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by noshibby View Post
Perhaps however encasing it in metal will make it quieter.

Also I'm aware I'd only need one of the parallel blocks, but it mentions something about links.
Yeah I did not know about this, looks like you would get one of these and then attach it to on of your 580's, this guy does it in this video.
Also here is the guy showing the leak test, pretty clear to see whats going on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotat...apI&feature=iv
Edited by Wubble - 4/11/11 at 8:13pm
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post #14 of 17
Thread Starter 
Well, here is what I'm looking at, doesn't look as nice here as it did in excel. Just looking for some opinions.


QuantityItemUnitTotal

1EK-Supreme HF Full Nickel $86.99 $86.99
2EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal+Nickel $117.99 $235.98
1Swiftech MCP 655-01 Water Pump With Speed Controller $79.99 $79.99
1FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir Rev.6 UV Blue 250mm $79.99 $79.99
1EK-FC Bridge Dual 3-Slot Parallel SLI Bridge $24.99 $24.99
2EK-FC Links $12.99 $25.98
1EK Coolstream XTC 280 Dual 140 Radiator $94.99 $94.99
1EK Coolstream XTC 420 Quad 140 Radiator $124.99 $124.99
10Feser Tube UV Hose 1/2" ID 3/4" OD $1.89 $18.90
14Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Straight Compression Fitting - Matt Black $8.99 $125.86
4Bitspower Stop Plug Fitting Matt Black $3.29 $13.16
2Koolance 1/2" ID Tubing Hose Clamp $1.93 $3.86
1Kill Coil $4.99 $4.99



Subtotal $920.67
Taxes $46.03
Total $966.70
Shipping $93.67
Grand Total $1,060.37
Edited by noshibby - 4/23/11 at 2:01pm
post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by noshibby View Post
Well, here is what I'm looking at, doesn't look as nice here as it did in excel. Just looking for some opinions.


QuantityItemUnitTotal

1EK-Supreme HF Full Nickel $86.99 $86.99
2EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal+Nickel $117.99 $235.98
1Swiftech MCP 655-01 Water Pump With Speed Controller $79.99 $79.99
1FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir Rev.6 UV Blue 250mm $79.99 $79.99
1EK-FC Bridge Dual 3-Slot Parallel SLI Bridge $24.99 $24.99
2EK-FC Links $12.99 $25.98
1EK Coolstream XT 240 Dual 120 Radiator $62.99 $62.99
1EK Coolstream XTC 480 Quad 120 Radiator $114.99 $114.99
10Feser Tube UV Hose 1/2" ID 3/4" OD $1.89 $18.90
14Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Straight Compression Fitting - Matt Black $8.99 $125.86
4Bitspower Stop Plug Fitting Matt Black $3.29 $13.16
2Koolance 1/2" ID Tubing Hose Clamp $1.93 $3.86
1Kill Coil $4.99 $4.99



Subtotal $878.67
Taxes $43.93
Total $922.60
Shipping $93.67
Grand Total $1,016.27

Seems like you're on a good path. Very similar loop to what I have (It's not listed in my sig any more though). I love the HF-Supreme, I have the copper/acetal one though.

Just a suggestion, check out this Pump/Res combo: Link
I went to that from my Laing 655 and love it. It will also save you some money.

Another thing, is you may want to look into dropping tubing size to 7/16 with 1/2 barbs. The reason for this being a much tighter fit and more leak proof, which is good for your first time. It will be a tiny bit tougher to shove the tubing over the barbs, but it may be worth it.


Also, if you can find an adapter for 120:140 you might want to look into a 420 radiator (3x140mm) if the 140mm fan selection fits your liking. A 140x3 radiator will out perform a 120x4 radiator due to increased surface area (as long as fan's are kept relatively the same).

I'm currently making the switch from 120 stuff to 140 stuff, currently I have a Swiftech 360, HW Labs 240, and XSPC 120 and will go with a 420 and 280 rad setup which will out perform my old setup. BTW, if you would consider used radiators...PM me if you'd be interested in picking up mine.


Other than that, you seem to be on the right track. It's actually really fun to build a loop, and can get quite addicting Just remember to take your time. Provide sufficient support to components when shoving tubing over barbs. Just to be safe, do a long leak down test period. If you have a spare PSU, use that. If not, just jump the GREEN wire to any BLACK wire on your psu and that will turn on just your PSU, thus powering your pump. That way you don't risk burning out your mobo/other components if you have a leak.

Also, I didn't catch what fluid you would be using...but just personally I suggest distilled water and pt-nuke. It is much more likely to be hassle free.


Oh, I just noticed something else...you picked all Nickel stuff for the blocks, but I think radiators have copper inside them. I would either switch all your blocks to copper versions, or you will need a special thing in your loop (drawing a blank on what it is, never used one) to keep the metals from reacting with each other and gunking your loop.

Also, if you go with brand new radiators, remember to do a good long flushing on them...otherwise your water will look like poop after some time because of all the flux from inside the radiator being knocked loose
Edited by fl0w3n - 4/23/11 at 1:36pm
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post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
Seems like you're on a good path. Very similar loop to what I have (It's not listed in my sig any more though). I love the HF-Supreme, I have the copper/acetal one though.

Just a suggestion, check out this Pump/Res combo: Link
I went to that from my Laing 655 and love it. It will also save you some money.

Another thing, is you may want to look into dropping tubing size to 7/16 with 1/2 barbs. The reason for this being a much tighter fit and more leak proof, which is good for your first time. It will be a tiny bit tougher to shove the tubing over the barbs, but it may be worth it.


Also, if you can find an adapter for 120:140 you might want to look into a 420 radiator (3x140mm) if the 140mm fan selection fits your liking. A 140x3 radiator will out perform a 120x4 radiator due to increased surface area (as long as fan's are kept relatively the same).

I'm currently making the switch from 120 stuff to 140 stuff, currently I have a Swiftech 360, HW Labs 240, and XSPC 120 and will go with a 420 and 280 rad setup which will out perform my old setup. BTW, if you would consider used radiators...PM me if you'd be interested in picking up mine.


Other than that, you seem to be on the right track. It's actually really fun to build a loop, and can get quite addicting Just remember to take your time. Provide sufficient support to components when shoving tubing over barbs. Just to be safe, do a long leak down test period. If you have a spare PSU, use that. If not, just jump the GREEN wire to any BLACK wire on your psu and that will turn on just your PSU, thus powering your pump. That way you don't risk burning out your mobo/other components if you have a leak.

Also, I didn't catch what fluid you would be using...but just personally I suggest distilled water and pt-nuke. It is much more likely to be hassle free.


Oh, I just noticed something else...you picked all Nickel stuff for the blocks, but I think radiators have copper inside them. I would either switch all your blocks to copper versions, or you will need a special thing in your loop (drawing a blank on what it is, never used one) to keep the metals from reacting with each other and gunking your loop.

Also, if you go with brand new radiators, remember to do a good long flushing on them...otherwise your water will look like poop after some time because of all the flux from inside the radiator being knocked loose
I will be using distilled water, and I don't think nickel and copper will have a galvanic reaction, otherwise they wouldn't be able to plate copper in nickel.

aluminium and copper will galvanically react.

and I changed to 140mm rad sizes, raised the prices a bit.

I think I'd prefer the 1/2" ID tubing simply for kink resistance and higher flow.

and I will definitely look into that reservoir setup, I wasn't really sure which direction I wanted to go for my reservoir.

so far everything in that order I can get from dazmode here in canada so I wont have to be raped for duty.
post #17 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by noshibby View Post
I will be using distilled water, and I don't think nickel and copper will have a galvanic reaction, otherwise they wouldn't be able to plate copper in nickel.

aluminium and copper will galvanically react.

and I changed to 140mm rad sizes, raised the prices a bit.

I think I'd prefer the 1/2" ID tubing simply for kink resistance and higher flow.

and I will definitely look into that reservoir setup, I wasn't really sure which direction I wanted to go for my reservoir.

so far everything in that order I can get from dazmode here in canada so I wont have to be raped for duty.
Oh yeah you're right, I guess I forgot some radiators are aluminum..but my point was to be aware of it, and it seems you are

Just be sure you can fit the 140mm radiators, and are happy with the fan choices. Mine will be going in a large Lian Li A71F full tower, and I was planning on using Yate Loon Med or Low speed fans, which happen to come both in 120 and 140 sizes so I'm happy there.

Yeah, you are also using compression fittings which need the same size tubing they are advertised for. No harm in that though.
I'll be using smaller tubing on 1/2" barbs simply for aesthetics, so I don't have to use clamps.

I've had a few loops, and that 355/xspc res is the first time I've used a res and it was real nice. I can't comment on comparison to other res, i.e. bay mount, but I can say that it was a nice compact little setup.

Make a build log once you get it all, seems like a great build
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