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post #11 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftace3D View Post
So ok Whats a good cooler? can i keep my radiator or toss the whole bit? I sorta like how it fits in the Armor case but willing to change it.
I'd encourage fiddling with what you have, but Thermaltake gear has a bad rep and most folks avoid it. Even back in the day it wasn't that good. It could be you have an air bubble unless you're certain you bled that loop well, but I'd doubt it off hand.

Of the water cooling bits you have I wouldn't keep any of it, apart from maybe barbs and spare hose. If you're wanting to stay with water This kit:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...l=g30c321s1310

Costs only a bit more than the top end air coolers...and will perform far better than the water gear that you have now.
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post #12 of 21
Well here a few recommendations for air coolers:

Thermalright Silver Arrow
Prolimatech Armageddon
Thermalright Venomous X
Prolimatech Megahalems
Thermaltake Frio
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post #13 of 21
Thread Starter 
I'm not totally in love with it but i prefer to keep weight down so it does not tweek the board so hard.

In a total experience with water cooling i can say its a pain in the ass compared to air.
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post #14 of 21
Thread Starter 
Thanks a bunch guys im gonna get a new cooler ASAP and ill be sure to keep yall posted.

Question now... Turn it back to stock?
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post #15 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftace3D View Post
I'm not totally in love with it but i prefer to keep weight down so it does not tweek the board so hard.
I personally have never had a problem with big heatsinks bending my motherboards. But I could see it as a valid concern.

If you do decide to go with an air cooled setup the Venomous X is the lightest of all the models I recommended at 755 grams without fans. And it should get you to 4.0 if your processor will get there with a decent voltage.
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post #16 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftace3D View Post
I'm not totally in love with it but i prefer to keep weight down so it does not tweek the board so hard.

In a total experience with water cooling i can say its a pain in the ass compared to air.

In your OP you have HT on.

Turn it off unless you need 8 threads for encoding etc.
Not a complete fix, but it will help, HT [disable]
Should run cooler , approx 5~10c cooler disabled.

Running 4GHz at 1.1875 bios vcore,LLC [enable], speedstep[disable], 4cores.
CPU-Z Shows > 1.184vcore idle, 1.184 v load linX, 1.192v load Prime
63c max cores(RealTemp) linX , 58c max cores Prime, 23c ambient

On water I would think your temps should be same or better?
some pics in sig below.

Had Prolimatech megahalems on mATX asus for 2 yrs, no warping/bending/tweaking of MB.
The Proli megahalems(790 grams) takes up about 1/2 of the total MB area, lol.
With two 120mm fans on it , so, it is heavier 790 gram +., & I lapped it.

Stress Temps seem to stabilize around 30 mins for me.
IMO 13 mins prime, your system hasn't warmed up yet.
So, run tests at least till temps stop rising, if safe to do so.

All the best cpu air coolers are close in performance.
Prolimatech.Thermalright, Noctua.
In the end, a lot depends on $$ available & what you like & Fan output.

edit link Heatsinkfactory>
http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/

Try HT [disable] see what your load temps are any better.
Might have defective water cooler , TIM application err, loose/uneven heatsink,etc.

Don't forget to monitor Northbridge/SB temps, use everest or similar.
Edited by M1 Abrams - 4/14/11 at 4:35pm
post #17 of 21
Thread Starter 
So i came home from work with some new coolant and a bit of 220 grit sandpaper.

Changed the coolant and tried to turn the box in different directions and layed it on its side to get all air bubbles out i could. I have been doing it that way since first install, this system sorta a pain to get air out.

Pulled the CPU block and just gave it a good cleaning and scuffed it with some sandpaper. Very lightly, just took the sheen off it. Did nothing to CPU. Some new thermopaste and some MORE BLEEDING to get last of air out lol.

Got some lower temps Seems much better. I almost want to scuff CPU..... Any thoughts?

Latest screenie attached.

Still running Prime gonna try for a few hours maybe overnight if temps still looking decent.
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post #18 of 21
Thread Starter 
@ Abrams

Thank you for your post

I do wonder what the benefit of having LLC on has? I hear you can get a bit higher clock speed because you can keep the CPU more stable at very high clock speeds where it needs the voltage boost. But while doing that dont you risk going over the max voltage because your missing the offset and voltage can Shoot to high while switching...

What about since we know the Voffset is gonna be there and your shooting for 1.25 in CPU-z just setting bios to say 1.27 or so should get your desired stability with offset in place per Intel specs?

I know that this probably wont work for the highest overclocks but I'm looking for a mild 3.6 or 3.8 and dont think i will need the very high vcore for stability.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5

Very good article i found about Vdroop and LLC might find useful.

I have seen alot of people using LLC and not really sure if its needed for a everyday Lower speed overclock.

When we do use it has anyone tried disabling and cranking volts .2 or so? or does it just crash ur stability?

BTW the Primes still running @ almost 1 hour and stable around 70-71.

I think im gonna wait a till the new cooler gets here to go higher.

Edited by Shiftace3D - 4/14/11 at 9:06pm
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post #19 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftace3D View Post
@ Abrams

Thank you for your post

I do wonder what the benefit of having LLC on has? I hear you can get a bit higher clock speed because you can keep the CPU more stable at very high clock speeds where it needs the voltage boost. But while doing that dont you risk going over the max voltage because your missing the offset and voltage can Shoot to high while switching...

What about since we know the Voffset is gonna be there and your shooting for 1.25 in CPU-z just setting bios to say 1.27 or so should get your desired stability with offset in place per Intel specs?

I know that this probably wont work for the highest overclocks but I'm looking for a mild 3.6 or 3.8 and dont think i will need the very high vcore for stability.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5

Very good article i found about Vdroop and LLC might find useful.

I have seen alot of people using LLC and not really sure if its needed for a everyday Lower speed overclock.

When we do use it has anyone tried disabling and cranking volts .2 or so? or does it just crash ur stability?

BTW the Primes still running @ almost 1 hour and stable around 70-71.

I think im gonna wait a till the new cooler gets here to go higher.

I use LLC enabled to steady the vcore, eliminate VDroop.

Thats a good article you linked
Not sure if that 775 load release "spike" with LLC enabled is a risk to i7.

A while ago a Mod here started a thread on i7 & LLC spike.
SmasherBasher maybe?, it has been a while
I think they needed some probes for oscilloscope, to begin.
Hope someday they will get some probes.

Yes by all means you can increase vcore, to offset VDroop,
instead of enabling LLC, , in your 125/127 example.

BIOS 1.1750 vcore should be ok stable at 3.62Ghz, w/o LLC enabled, intel spec.

Might need a bump or two but close to that vcore for 3.8.

Add some qpi/dram voltage as you go higher to help stability.
Just keep qpi/dram within 1/2 volt of dram bus voltage, prevent damage.
ex: qpi/dram core 1.20v, dram bus 1.64v,
1.64 - 1.20 = .44v( 1.25 qpi is better).

Did you disable HT too see temp change?
Why is dram bus at 1.64 not 1.65?
NB temps ?

70c~71c max is better than 80c, glad you got rid of some air bubbles.
Gaming or internet, cpu cores are nowhere near prime temps.

See how high CPU can go by adding some qpi/dram & leave vcore alone.
ex: 1.280 qpi ,1.20 vcore

cheers
post #20 of 21
from my experience 930s was never good to me, only 920s
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