[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 178

I'd like to know where you're getting your information from that the temps don't read correctly until 45C

Also your idle temps match mine, so correct or not, they're within range - I don't know if you're overclocked but I am, heavily.. Whether you are or not, you have two extra cores so even stock you should be running warmer than me. Also, depending on your room temperatures and case temps, your temps will vary.

The temps on the socket are not something to worry about, I've had mine at 67C (according to socket readings) for 12+ hours and both chips are still cooking and performing admirably in BM's.

Just watch CPU temps and you're fine. Your socket temps and your core temps nearly match mine on idle so relax. I've had my chip running far hotter than it is with this water loop on it and it's FINE.

If you doubt me, wait for somebody else to answer you.

You're paranoid about the core temps being so far off.

I forgot to add that my CPU idled cooler on air also.. it's because the air coming in was fresh and cool, it wasn't warm and sitting inside my hot case like the radiator is.

What were your MAX temps with the Xiggy in Prime 95?

What are they now with the water loop? Set the custom settings to 30/40 or 30/42 in the software and let her rip with prime on. I promise your max temps will be WAY lower, unless you did something wrong or had a Noctua dh 14 in your system prior.

My max temps dropped from 60C on the cores to 36C on the cores from a cooler master hyper n520 to my new antec kuhler 920.

Your 1090T and my 960T are basically the same processor, running at the same temps. You're good dude.
Edited by FromUndaChz - 5/2/12 at 10:06pm

I can't find the thread where someone here asked an AMD engineer whether socket temps or CPU temps were more important and it was him/that thread which noted that the core temps are more important, but that they don't (at least on Thuban based chips anyways) accurately report correct temperatures until they hit 45c.

The core temps have no internal sensor. They are calculated by an algorithm. So - it was suggested to maintain socket temps on Thubans because they were generally 10-15c higher than the core temps, thus proving more accurately reported. So...

I guess it just is what it is. Seems to me like it should idle a lot lower but I guess not. What surprised me most was how loud it is, even at 1500 RPM. I have 2x6850 in CF and I can't hear them over the 2x120's on the radiator. That's pretty damn loud.

They shouldn't be very loud when the chip is idling if you adjust the custom settings properly man.. no matter what it's going to idle higher than it did on a decent air cooler, it's a fact of life with a small closed loop system. Your max temps are what matter and they will be lower.

Don't stress too much about the socket temps, mine won't go over 52C on the socket at 42 on the cores even on SILENT setting.

If it's loud on idle, play with the fan settings. I made mine silent on idle, and they ramp up slowly when gaming - I can barely hear them unless it's quiet in the game. There's no reason to have them blasting, if the cpu is under max temps then it's just fine, no need to be much cooler than that.

Test prime on SILENT and you'll see that you still won't even be in the danger zone.

Stop stressing about idle temps and let it idle hotter if it's too loud when browsing or whatever.

It might be true that core temps aren't quite accurate until 45C - but my processor isn't even reaching those core temps on this cooler so I'm not sure what you have going on.

I'll be honest with ya, My temps get up to 40C on the Antec Software, but that is because my room gets up to 95*F during the day. I also keep my 1090T@3.6GHz, so it does produce a little more heat.

 

Here is the best way to explain this:

Just as a heatsink and fan are made to take the heat of what it contacts and disipate the heat away, the heatsink inside the pump/cooler (coldplate inside), has water pass over it, get heated by this heatsink which transfers it to the radiator, where the heat is stored until the fans blow through it to remove the heat from the radiator. The cooled liquid from the radiator is then passed back to the pump, where it can gather more heat to be sent to the radiator, in a loop. The Warmer the air the fans push through the radiator, the less heat it can disipate. However, if you reverse it and draw air from outside, in most cases you are blowing warm air disipated from the radiator directly over the processor, adding more heat to the mix. The best solution is to make sure nice cool air enters the case, so that the radiator can cool better.

Long story short is this, both air cooled applications and liquid cooled applications have 1 thing in common, they dissipate heat. The difference is, most air cooled solutions have NO control of where it dissipates to, unlike water cooled applications, which can be put ANYWHERE you want. If you wanna get "jiggy with it" (and void your warranty), then you could disconnect the lines on the radiator, run the hoses outside the case, mount the radiator outside the case, and therefore ZERO radiated heat inside your case.

It wasn't just idle, it was load temps too. I've reconfigured, started over, tightened the screws on the base completely (all the way!), applied MX-2 because I didn't want to reuse the messed up Shin-Etsu, managed to setup fans to plug each one into CPU/fan header, pump on header on mobo too and now everything is super peachy.

Still the fans are too loud so I'll be looking at some Scythe and Gelid fans, but for now I'm much happier with the setup. Much better.

Thanks for your input, but I think I'm all setup now.

The fans are super loud under load - that's why I plugged the fans into my pump so I could use both the BIOS or the Antec software to control the fan speeds. I use the software but I tried with the BIOS and it works well also. My mobo's Asus software allows me to control the fans as well.

Whatever works for you, go for it.. I find the fans to be quite quiet when properly configured to ramp up according to needs - only loud when running Prime95 but that's to be expected.

You did well to tighten the screws all the way, that's what it takes - you won't hurt anything, you need good pressure to have proper contact and it didn't take much torque at all to tighten them down all the way on my board.

Glad you got it figured out.

I've bypassed the pump jig and just went for mobo control via BIOS. On silent I think I'm topping out at 45c. They're still too loud at 1500RPM though. I can deal with it for now. Will probably get some GT's one day or another.

Hey guys.

I just bought the AP-15 fans to replace the stock ones. Where do I plug them since the MB has only one power fan connector?

You can still plug them into the 4-pin connector the old fans were plugged into, they'll just run at full speed. Honestly, I find AP-15 fans to be quiet.