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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 189

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 53% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 46% (130)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
282 Total Votes  
post #1881 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFHRageQuit View Post

thx for the prompt reply, how ever i do agree with you, but yet am still trying to find the liquid needed to ensure this thing runs cool, or if i futuristically want to flush out the system, at any rate ive managed to drop my tempts even more since ive last posted just by changing out fans still though if any6one has an idea as to what liquid would be safe to flush this out and or in case i want to put my own hoses and or what not on id appreciate it thanks in advance

It's a maintenance free system.. that's why it's called closed loop. There would be no reason to ever flush these systems out, well - that was until you opened it and introduced oxygen into the system - which can now cause corrosion. Changing hoses on these things isn't a really great idea as there will be no standard or solid way to ensure that the hoses were reconnected properly. Nothing about these pre-assembled loops is standard or meant to be worked on or taken apart in any way. Just my two cents, but I'd just suggest you stop messing with that thing before it leaks in your system and you end up with real problems on your hands.
post #1882 of 6068
Add me!

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post #1883 of 6068
Add me to the club, I just got my Kuhler 920 yesterday.

First of all, I need to get the negativity out of the way... This was the most miserable installation I have ever experienced in 20 years of building computers. That is not hyperbole. It was almost on the level of doing a car repair on a 20 year old car with rusted bolts everywhere.

The screws that they include in the package for the fan/heatsink are just not long enough. My case has rubber grommets for the fan to go up against, which added roughly 1 or 2mm and the only way to get them on was literally to press with all of my strength and cause the screws to bury themselves into the rubber. Even then, I'm concerned about whether the heatsink mount will hold up. Even without the rubber grommets, the issue was there just using the supplied washers. Would it be that much of a problem to include ~2mm longer screws so that people are guaranteed a nice fit? I'm a handy person, and this installation took me almost 2 hours. Ridiculous. I've emailed Antec about it and requested longer screws, hopefully they will respond.

That out of the way, not that it is minimal as I wouldn't wish this installation on my worst enemy, the cooler itself seems to be very nice. It handles load temps with so much more elegance than my Hyper 212 Evo, and I know it will allow me to push my 3570k to 4.5GHz comfortably for daily use. Great. I am happy with the sound of the device, I think people overblow that "issue" just because it is very loud on extreme... but why would you ever run this on extreme short of when you hit dangerous temps? I left the full setting to 50C liquid temp, which I imagine I will never reach.

On that note, I don't love that the only way to control the fans is in relation to liquid temperature, especially with Ivy Bridge where the chips can fluctuate dramatically in an instant. It could very well be possible that my chip spikes to 100C and the controller software doesn't react for a long time. I don't know how to set my liquid temp to correspond to dangerous CPU temps, if that's even possible given the lag between the CPU heating up and the water heating up. I left it at default of 40C ramp up and 50C extreme for now. Does anybody have advice on this topic?
post #1884 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktownhero View Post

Add me to the club, I just got my Kuhler 920 yesterday.
First of all, I need to get the negativity out of the way... This was the most miserable installation I have ever experienced in 20 years of building computers. That is not hyperbole. It was almost on the level of doing a car repair on a 20 year old car with rusted bolts everywhere.
The screws that they include in the package for the fan/heatsink are just not long enough. My case has rubber grommets for the fan to go up against, which added roughly 1 or 2mm and the only way to get them on was literally to press with all of my strength and cause the screws to bury themselves into the rubber. Even then, I'm concerned about whether the heatsink mount will hold up. Even without the rubber grommets, the issue was there just using the supplied washers. Would it be that much of a problem to include ~2mm longer screws so that people are guaranteed a nice fit? I'm a handy person, and this installation took me almost 2 hours. Ridiculous. I've emailed Antec about it and requested longer screws, hopefully they will respond.
That out of the way, not that it is minimal as I wouldn't wish this installation on my worst enemy, the cooler itself seems to be very nice. It handles load temps with so much more elegance than my Hyper 212 Evo, and I know it will allow me to push my 3570k to 4.5GHz comfortably for daily use. Great. I am happy with the sound of the device, I think people overblow that "issue" just because it is very loud on extreme... but why would you ever run this on extreme short of when you hit dangerous temps? I left the full setting to 50C liquid temp, which I imagine I will never reach.
On that note, I don't love that the only way to control the fans is in relation to liquid temperature, especially with Ivy Bridge where the chips can fluctuate dramatically in an instant. It could very well be possible that my chip spikes to 100C and the controller software doesn't react for a long time. I don't know how to set my liquid temp to correspond to dangerous CPU temps, if that's even possible given the lag between the CPU heating up and the water heating up. I left it at default of 40C ramp up and 50C extreme for now. Does anybody have advice on this topic?

You can plug the fans into the motherboard CPU header and then plug the pump into another header or 12v power source and just make sure the pump is running at 100% or it might make noise and it won't pump effectively. The fans will ramp up based on CPU temps if they're plugged into the CPU fan header.

There is nothing wrong with the temperature of the liquid being the reference for the CPU cooler - this actually makes more sense with water cooling than it would to control the fans via CPU temps, although either way is fine. So long as you monitor your temps under load (like prime95) and set up your liquid temp profile to levels that keep your chip cool enough, the chip will never heat up fast enough, under any load, to overheat before the fans ramp up. This is because the liquid in the cooler takes some time to heat up, and so even if the processor temps spike, the coolant temps are still going to be low for quite some time.. quite enough time for the liquid temp sensor to be aware of the temperature change, and ramp the fans up to a higher speed. The temperature sensor in these is placed inline of the pump outlet - so the warming coolant can be detected instantaneously anyway. This is an issue that you need not worry about.

I didn't have a hard time at all with the installation.. I think you could have bought longer screws and saved yourself a lot of trouble, and maybe not put so much stress on the threads of the radiator and its screws. Not sure the rubber on your case is a reason to complain about the cooler itself but I guess that's just my viewpoint.
.
Edited by FromUndaChz - 5/24/12 at 9:46am
post #1885 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktownhero View Post

*snip*

I didn't use the washers on my installation, I didn't see the need to personally. And for CPU temp control, plug the fans into your 'case fan' headers on your motherboard instead of the y-cable from the block. Then you can set your 'Chassis' fan speed to whatever you want.
    
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post #1886 of 6068
I don't understand this "screw" problem. I cut mine short, for goodness sake. To make installation easier I screwed the fan onto the radiator with the shortened screws & then used the fan screws to mount everything to the chassis. Easy.
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post #1887 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by FromUndaChz View Post

You can plug the fans into the motherboard CPU header and then plug the pump into another header or 12v power source and just make sure the pump is running at 100% or it might make noise and it won't pump effectively. The fans will ramp up based on CPU temps if they're plugged into the CPU fan header.
There is nothing wrong with the temperature of the liquid being the reference for the CPU cooler - this actually makes more sense with water cooling than it would to control the fans via CPU temps, although either way is fine. So long as you monitor your temps under load (like prime95) and set up your liquid temp profile to levels that keep your chip cool enough, the chip will never heat up fast enough, under any load, to overheat before the fans ramp up. This is because the liquid in the cooler takes some time to heat up, and so even if the processor temps spike, the coolant temps are still going to be low for quite some time.. quite enough time for the liquid temp sensor to be aware of the temperature change, and ramp the fans up to a higher speed. The temperature sensor in these is placed inline of the pump outlet - so the warming coolant can be detected instantaneously anyway. This is an issue that you need not worry about.
I didn't have a hard time at all with the installation.. I think you could have bought longer screws and saved yourself a lot of trouble, and maybe not put so much stress on the threads of the radiator and its screws. Not sure the rubber on your case is a reason to complain about the cooler itself but I guess that's just my viewpoint.

When you pay $80 for an item, you expect it to come with the right hardware to install it. There is absolutely no reason for Antec to supply screws that are so narrowly within the range of what works. What would be so terrible about making the screws 2mm longer, or supplying 2 sets of screws which will cost them like 3 cents? Even without the issue of my case grommets, the screws are barely sufficient. In fact, they aren't even long enough to be used with the washers supplied! The grommets on my case are no larger than the supplied washers.

I am ok with the liquid temp control now, I do understand it more. I just did some stress testing with IBT and watched the liquid temp, and used that as a means to determine where I should set the ramp up/full on settings. I love the product in and of itself, it's clearly well made and it works well. I just don't think they are doing themselves any favors by making it the installation so difficult. Putting a couple millimeters on the screws or just throwing 4 longer screws in there would cost them little-to-nothing, but would go a long way towards improving perception of the device. I'm not the first, nor will I be the last, to have this issue.

My 3570k went from spiking at nearly 100C @ 4.4GHz during the IBT "Very High" test, to staying under 80C -- and running at a mere +0.05v offset. So, I'm certainly a fan of its performance smile.gif

EDIT: As for going out and buying longer screws, that would have been fine (though annoying) had I not already disassembled my 212 Evo and been past the point of no return lol.
Edited by ktownhero - 5/24/12 at 8:00am
post #1888 of 6068
I sent my Antec 920 to the store, received a replacement yesterday but will build PC again next week when i receive GFX also.

How should i mount it properly to avoid any air bubbles? I see alot of different opinions so i am confused what the correct way is to prevent any air bubbles to get into the pump and making fish tank noise.

Thanks
post #1889 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktownhero View Post

When you pay $80 for an item, you expect it to come with the right hardware to install it. There is absolutely no reason for Antec to supply screws that are so narrowly within the range of what works. What would be so terrible about making the screws 2mm longer, or supplying 2 sets of screws which will cost them like 3 cents? Even without the issue of my case grommets, the screws are barely sufficient. In fact, they aren't even long enough to be used with the washers supplied! The grommets on my case are no larger than the supplied washers.
I am ok with the liquid temp control now, I do understand it more. I just did some stress testing with IBT and watched the liquid temp, and used that as a means to determine where I should set the ramp up/full on settings. I love the product in and of itself, it's clearly well made and it works well. I just don't think they are doing themselves any favors by making it the installation so difficult. Putting a couple millimeters on the screws or just throwing 4 longer screws in there would cost them little-to-nothing, but would go a long way towards improving perception of the device. I'm not the first, nor will I be the last, to have this issue.
My 3570k went from spiking at nearly 100C @ 4.4GHz during the IBT "Very High" test, to staying under 80C -- and running at a mere +0.05v offset. So, I'm certainly a fan of its performance smile.gif
EDIT: As for going out and buying longer screws, that would have been fine (though annoying) had I not already disassembled my 212 Evo and been past the point of no return lol.

The product certainly came with all of the right hardware to install it. You're acting like your isolated issue (caused by a non-standard case design) is the fault of Antec, and essentially acting like the screws that they send with the unit aren't even the correct ones - which they are. I think that's misleading to other members.

I thought the screws could have been a couple of mm longer myself, but the fact that they ARE long enough for any standard case - and your case happens to have rubber grommets around the fan screw holes - does not make that Antec's problem... just my opinion - You can buy proper screws for less than ten cents each so I was more or less unsure of what the complaining was all about when your case is the thing that isn't considered standard. Any normal steel case will not have this issue with the length of the radiator mounting screws, only odd cases with custom niceties such as sound and vibration dampening grommets will have this issue. When you buy cases that have extras like that, sometimes they lead to extra issues - again - I don't see how that is Antec's fault, that is all.

Supplying EVERY customer with two sets of screws would actually cut into their bottom line quite significantly at the end of the year. Companies usually don't usually make the kinds of profits that consumers think they do on products, although obviously sometimes companies can make far more than anybody would think. When you sell hundreds of thousands of units a year, a quarter per unit adds up - I'm sure they made a conscious decision to supply screws that were just long enough for any standard case, in order to keep costs down for the consumer - you and I... My question is - Why should I pay for your longer screws, when 99% of cases on the market won't have an issue with the screws provided?

I'm not trying to argue with you, just trying to make you understand that your problem is an isolated one that the engineers probably didn't care about because they know how easy and cheap it is to get longer ones if need be.. and their concern is usually cost and functionality for the masses over anything else (such as non-standard PC cases). The screws are more than sufficient for any case without the grommets. Remove the grommets if it is an issue. It seems you kind of made a mistake in your decision to put up with the installation being so difficult by not just purchasing longer screws, or simply slicing/removing the unnecessary grommets from the case, IMO. The fact that you "were past the point of no return" is an issue of patience on your part - and not wanting to just wait to use the PC and finish the install until you had the proper hardware to do the install. I was always told not to do something unless I had the proper tools, or in this case, hardware for the job. That little bit has saved me a lot of pain in the past.

Anyway, I'm glad you like it/got it working and installed. thumb.gif
.
Edited by FromUndaChz - 5/24/12 at 9:51am
post #1890 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by dislikeyou View Post

I sent my Antec 920 to the store, received a replacement yesterday but will build PC again next week when i receive GFX also.

How should i mount it properly to avoid any air bubbles? I see alot of different opinions so i am confused what the correct way is to prevent any air bubbles to get into the pump and making fish tank noise.

Thanks

According to Antec, there is no specific position to mount it in. Most people from what I can tell seem to prefer either hoses on top or bottom mount. Haven't seen any to the side really (radiator). As for the CPU mount (block), I'd guess that too would depend on what is in your case. I have mine pointing towards the front of the case so the hoses don't hang on the back of my video card (as opposed to the hoses pointing towards the bottom of my case).

But the all-in-all-catch-all answer seems to be that position of the mount / hoses doesn't matter.
    
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