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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 191

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 53% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 46% (130)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
282 Total Votes  
post #1901 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by peste19 View Post

i bought the 620 from frys and this is my first water cooling setup and have a question.
i have been reading the i should connect the fan to the cpu fan header and the pump at a pwr fan header at 100% but my question is do i really want my pump always working at 100%, additionally i see that there are two connectors coming from the plate, i guess one is to power the the pump and than the other is if i wanted to also connect the fan and not use the cpu fan header?
sorry if these are stupid questions
thanks in advance

You want the pump running at 100% or it will often make noise like there are rocks in the system. Nothing wrong with running a pump at 100%, pumps are meant to run at full speed. You can connect the fans to the plug on the pump. I don't know how the fan speed is controlled on the 620, however, after you plug the fans into the pump - On the 920, you use the software to control the fan speeds when they're plugged into the pump.. The 620 has no such software, and may run the fan at full speed - you'll have to try it or wait for somebody who owns the 620 for a sure answer on that.

The pump, however, is just fine at 100% 24/7 - The fans can be plugged in either way you choose... both ways are acceptable - I'm just not positive if the fan speed is controllable in the BIOS on the 620 once the fans are plugged into the pump.
post #1902 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by aggr08 View Post

I had to buy some extra screws to make the 620 fit in my case. I ended up getting 75 silver Size 6-32 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws for $4.00. The ones that come with the cooler are 6-32 1-1/4 inch, but as mentioned I needed some a bit longer to fit a fan grill over the fan as well. My local hardware store had a pack of 8 silver 6-32 1-1/4 inch ones for about $1.50.


Are they really SAE threads? I would have thought metric. I'm in the same boat here as in this case, I need shorter screws to mount the rad directly to my case (not going for push pull), and I need longer screws so I can use a 38mm fan to push (higher static pressure on the Panaflo fan I will use should negate the need for push/pull with the included 25mm deep fans).

Any chance these are the same thread as the Corsair offerings? I've got screws from my H100 I didn't use. I could break out the caliper and check.
post #1903 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by SavantStrike View Post

Are they really SAE threads? I would have thought metric. I'm in the same boat here as in this case, I need shorter screws to mount the rad directly to my case (not going for push pull), and I need longer screws so I can use a 38mm fan to push (higher static pressure on the Panaflo fan I will use should negate the need for push/pull with the included 25mm deep fans).
Any chance these are the same thread as the Corsair offerings? I've got screws from my H100 I didn't use. I could break out the caliper and check.

What about an store? Com on, how hard is it to get screws? hehe
post #1904 of 6068
Hey guys... I just put a second fan on my 620 for a [ush/pull and after plugging the fan back into the port on the pump it's no longer putting out enough juice to turn a fan....
like if i spin it, it will continue to turn VERY SLOWLY.

I did not to it, just put a second fan on the outside of the case.
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post #1905 of 6068

well, here is a general rule of thumb for the radiator placement:

 

radiator higher than CPU= hoses on bottom

radiator lower than CPU=hoses on top

 

radiator in intake fan slot=Intake the fans

radiator in exhaust fan slot=Exhaust the fans

 

If radiator is mounted below the CPU, it may be a good idea to unplug the system, Loop the PSU so it will run w/o being plugged into the Motherboard, and run the pump a while with the radiator held above the Pump/CPU Block. If the pump makes EXTREMELY loud noise (like louder than a fish tank pump that is air locked) then shake the radiator a little, CAREFULLY so as not to rip the hoses. Once the noise dies down a little, then it is safe to mount the radiator with the hoses on top of the radiator, (I believe).

 

Now onto the Setup once installed:

Immediately Enter BIOS and if the pin header the pump is plugged into has a energy saver function turned on, turn it off and set that pin header to 100%, (if your BIOS allows this) This will keep the pump from making low speed noises. If you are using a 920, install the software AS ADMINISTRATOR. This will allow the CPU to no longer throttle the fans, but the Antec Chill Control Software. Turn off any USB selective suspend options in Power Options of Windows, and select ACTIVE COOLING in the CPU fan controls. Restart the computer to allow it to change the drivers. Then, open Antec CC and set it to CUSTOM. Then, click fan control at the bottom. Immediately change the fan Ramp start temp to at least 30C, and the Full fan speed to 40. Adjust to your liking of the fan ramp, but keep your eye on your Coolant temps, and your CPU temps ( I use Core Temp with the Core Temp Gadget) for the next week or so, just keep tabs on what it does at night (maybe around midnight, or when the computer has been idle late at night for an hour or so) when it's the coolest, and during the middle of the day(Around 3pm) when it's the hottest.

 

Final Note:

If you are using multiple users on your computer, when other use it you may want to log out of your side of the computer because in my personal setup, I have found it will not load on the guest users account unless the program is stopped on my side. I guess this is because it cannot handle 2 instances of it running on the same system. This has become an increasing problem since the times the secondary user is on my computer is during the Hottest part of the day, where if the fans are in silent mode, temps reach as high as 50C! As a precaution, I would suggest Logging out of your side just before another uses the computer, and make sure it loads and a profile is set on their side, and that they do not close Antec CC.

    
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post #1906 of 6068
Well, if anyone is interested, I got the rad mounted. It turns out the threads are indeed 6-32. It was confusing as I thought asetek made most of the offerings on both the corsair and antec sides. As it turned out, the H100 uses m3, and the antec uses 6-32.


Slightly less off topic, can anyone give me figures as to how much energy this pump draws? Antec seemed confident running the pump + 2 fans off of a motherboard header, but I can't see that being a good idea. As it stands the plan is to run only the pump off of a motherboard header, but it would be nice to know how much this thing draws. I really don't feel like wiring a multimeter in series with it just to find out though.
post #1907 of 6068
so you want someone to do it for you?
post #1908 of 6068
Both my H60 and 620 are 6-32 screws. I buy 3" ones and cut them to size depending on my needs.
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post #1909 of 6068
Just joined the forum, I had a question about the 920. Don't know if I should open a new thread or post in this one - so sorry in advance if i've guessed wrong.

I'm looking at upgrading in steps - put my existing mobo in a new case (Antec P280) and at the same time install a Antec Kuhler 920. mobo is a GA-P55_UD3R (it will get replaced later)
My configuration is a dual boot one - Windows 7 - 64bit, Linux (Fedora 16) 64 bit with grub bootloader.

My question:
Antec software should control the fan speed as normal when I boot Windows, but what will happen when I boot linux - not as a virtual guest - but natively ?
I dont think there are any linux drivers for this device - presumably it will be unknown USB device.
Will the bios manage the fan speed (if set to auto) or will it just run flat out .... or worse ..

EDIT: Just found a linux driver (not pretty but ...) http://sourceforge.net/projects/kuhlerdriver/
My question still remains though - if I don't use the usb cable to control it, will the bios manage the control - presumably it does with the 620 but what about the 920 ?
Edited by wotfor - 6/3/12 at 6:30pm
post #1910 of 6068
Quote:
Originally Posted by wotfor View Post

Just joined the forum, I had a question about the 920. Don't know if I should open a new thread or post in this one - so sorry in advance if i've guessed wrong.
I'm looking at upgrading in steps - put my existing mobo in a new case (Antec P280) and at the same time install a Antec Kuhler 920. mobo is a GA-P55_UD3R (it will get replaced later)
My configuration is a dual boot one - Windows 7 - 64bit, Linux (Fedora 16) 64 bit with grub bootloader.
My question:
Antec software should control the fan speed as normal when I boot Windows, but what will happen when I boot linux - not as a virtual guest - but natively ?
I dont think there are any linux drivers for this device - presumably it will be unknown USB device.
Will the bios manage the fan speed (if set to auto) or will it just run flat out .... or worse ..
EDIT: Just found a linux driver (not pretty but ...) http://sourceforge.net/projects/kuhlerdriver/
My question still remains though - if I don't use the usb cable to control it, will the bios manage the control - presumably it does with the 620 but what about the 920 ?[/quote

That I can probably test for you in a few days if you'd like smile.gif.


My 920 is not actually doing anything yet, but if everything goes according to plan it will be shortly. End of the week tops. If you need the dater sooner I could see if I can't hurry things along, although I won't have temperature data until it's mounted and doing something.

]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Both my H60 and 620 are 6-32 screws. I buy 3" ones and cut them to size depending on my needs.

That makes a heck of a lot more sense to me. I bought a batch of strange m3 screws that I used to try this with. Maybe they aren't actually M3. I put in a known 6-32 and it worked, I didn't actually pull anything from the corsair to check as it's already mounted and done. The m3's I screwed into it were loose enough they could be pulled out by hand with a little wiggling.


No matter, I didn't even bother going to the store for screws. I just drilled bigger holes on one side of my panaflo fan so I could get a screwdriver through it and used a pair of end cutters on the screws that came with the 920 and made them shorter smile.gif.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotary7 View Post

so you want someone to do it for you?

Heh, no. I'm perfectly happy to muck about with my own hardware, although in this case it seems like a lot of irritation for data that might not change anything. I'm positive it's under 10 watts which is what my mobo's fan headers are rated for. I just hoped perhaps someone else had the data already. I didn't expect it though TBH. Even the fans it came with don't provide current data on them (I've never seen that before).
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