[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 193

Sorry about the dumb question, but how do an 12v power source look like? I would like to try this, as now I have installed it "corectly" and let the pump manage the fan speed, and that is not the best option it seems

Just plug the pump into a 3 pin header on the motherboard, or use a 3 pin to 4 pin molex (these come with some fans) to run it off the 12V of the PSU. Then the fan can go on a PWM or whatever you want to use to control the speed.


Thanks, any general installation tips? I guess I want to try getting it right and seeing how the temps are before totally giving up on it or moving it to my graphics card. It just seemed like I was doing it wrong because it didn't really fit.

And is there any 'wrong' way to position the rad, if it isn't making noise? I might try turning it on its side (with the fins lying flat) and mounting it on the top of the case or maybe even try rotating 90 degress to let lie awkwardly on the bottom if I do go for the video card route.
Edited by Molybdenum - 6/5/12 at 12:11am

This.

UPDATE: My Antec Kuhler Pump Has Started Making Rattling Noises, AGAIN!

This Sucks Big Time! I hate YOU ANTEC!!

I am on my 3rd Kuhler 620 and this thing has started making the ghey rattling and grinding noise like a concord is passing my window!!
The thing is audible over all my fans and I am well over two feet away from my computer. My H70 in the past two years of service has never made such rattle.

What the hell is up with antec and their quality control? there are so many people online with this same retarded impaler shaft rattling noise problem that its ridiculous


http://forums.hexus.net/antec-care-hexus/204695-clicking-sound-antec-kuhler-920-a.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/267970-29-antec-kuhler-pump-noise

http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/110#post_13257541

http://www.overclock.net/t/1243054/antec-kuhler-620-rattling-issues-are-there-antec-reps-here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu7frR3A9Fw

http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/1560

http://www.overclock.net/t/1243054/antec-kuhler-620-rattling-issues-are-there-antec-reps-here/10#post_17045104

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=21343569

http://www.overclock.net/t/1034169/antec-kuhler-clicking-thread

I have Had it with Antec.
I have already spent over $20 shipping the last two units back and forth.
Not buying another Antec Kuhler again, never recommending it to anybody either. not until Antec has better products that dont make noise!!!
its a Shame because the Kuhler was a really nice cooler, too bad quite operation is considered lucky if you buy these units.
Edited by TheBirdman74 - 6/5/12 at 1:42pm

So maybe you guys can help me out I am replacing my fans on my Antec h20 920 and here or the ones I am down to.

Cooler Master SickleFlow http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9301/fan-577/Cooler_Master_SickleFlow_120x25mm_Super_Silent_Fan_-_Red_LED_-_R4-L2R-20AR-R1.html?tl=g36c331s518 69.69 CFM 19 dB-A

SlienX Fan http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14511/fan-945/SilenX_120x120x25mm_-_15dBA_-_74CFM_Effizio_Series_Led_Fan_-_Red_EFX-12-15R.html?tl=g36c331s518 74 CFM 15 dB

Aerocool Shark http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12204/fan-795/Aerocool_Shark_Red_Edition_120mm_x_25mm_High_Air_Pressure_Fan_w_Red_LEDs.html?tl=g36c331s518 82.6 CMF 26.5dBA

Don't know if you guys have used these fans and what going to get me the best temps.

 Quote:

 I've snipped alot of your post because I hate long posts.

 

Honestly, is that youtube video of yours? if so, um, mine MAY make that noise when I 1st put power to it, but I've NEVER ran mine without the rest of the system running, so I wouldn't hear a miniscule noise like that. Once again, I'll point to the teardown of these Pumps on the 1st post. THEY ARE FISH TANK FILTER STYLE PUMPS, Never seen a fish tank that was COMPLETELY quiet.

 

Do yourself a favor, hook your system up, all fans and everything, and then post a video of if you can hear the darn thing over your fans. If not, then your OVERREACTING. If you just want your money back, tell Antec that, quit spending money just to knit pick every slight noise.

 

If you followed the little guide I posted a couple pages back, then as little as that noise is, it will go away in about 2 days. The liquid lubricates it.

You got me wrong Bud,

First of all look at your post, Its LONGER!! Mine only looks longer because I gave some links to a small number of people who are having same issues. Actually Go Click those links and see what others have to say...

Second this is my Third yes 3rd Kuhler that has failed on me. 3 units in a row that had same or similar problems, the first two had grinding noises and this one has a lower frequency rattling noise.

Third, I also know how they sound, very quite, and I also know how they look inside, I did a tear down on my friends one. They have a SLIGHT hum if you get within a few inches close, but that cant be heard once the case is closed.

Now, Please do me and yourself a favor, take a couple of minutes of your time, show some decency and try to pay attention to actually read what a guy writes before jumping and blaming him of OVERREACTING. I know how these units sound dude, I have tried all the methods I found on this thread and online. Nothing helped! The Sound is Similar when your glass windows start shaking when a Concord lands near your house or if you turn the bass up too high. They Grind and the noise can be heard two feet away over all my case fans!
Edited by TheBirdman74 - 6/6/12 at 3:34am

Im testing the antec 620 on my cpu at the moment and is a good cooler for the price i was surprised and very quiet too even with the stock fan at full blast.. I can deal with that type of noise is decent..

Note, dont use the included double sided tape to hold the black plate (they just included that for easy installation), use regular tape to hold then when you mount the cooler take it off. If you plan on removing that later on it will be a pain in the ass to remove plus in my asus mobo there was solder points and some caps there... The Instructions sucks, use common sense thats what i did lol...


This is what i found so far, if you are using the radiator as a outake in the back of the case like antec recommendations, it is ok, but there is a trade off.... When your cpu is idle the fan is gonna slow down and this is gonna raise your case temps and other components temps, as the fan is not working at full blast.

I recommend using better pwn fans on the radiator, dont like a bit the auto settings on the cooler, stay away from connecting the fan on the cooler itself use your mobo headers, thats why some people dont see lower idle temps...

My mobo temps go way up to 52c when im idle, cpu stays around 22-23c in idle around with those mobo temps, when i fire up prime my mobo temp drops to 30-32 as the fan is working faster...

I order 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans and im going to connect this straight to the mother board...

Btw, still prefer high end air coolers, but this one fits for what i need and do a very decent job...

My results, prime 95 1hr running
2500k @ 4.5GHz/ 1.328v
Cpu temp 50-51c, Highest core temp 60-61

Regular run and games would be like 5 to 8c lower than what prime shows which is very good...

Avoid IBT unless you are testing an overclock, other than that the payload is not a real scenario..

Things to keep in mind, IBT/Prime they just stress testing your cpu, they don represent real case scenarios.. Dont get here and said ohhh im getting 70c on IBT watercooled, because you never gonna reach those temps on day to day use with any other program....
Edited by zGunBLADEz - 6/6/12 at 8:22am

I had to think about this for a bit. At first I was thinking that it shouldn't have too much effect since it's just cool air going in. But then if there's nothing exhausting the air out enough, then there's more warm air from all the components not getting out fast enough. So good point I think.
Unless they're folding anyways.

Quote:

 

Honestly, you mistook me on the long post thing. I didn't want to MAKE a long post by using the whole post you made + mine. Sorry, I worded that wrong. My bad. I want to be very rank with everyone. When I 1st push the power button on my computer, it makes a loud rattling noise similar to what you are hearing, it happens. After the pump gets caught back up it slowly dies down and will disappear over the sound of the fans. Very similar to my common use of a fish tank pump. When you unplug it, and the water in it goes to the lowest point in the system, then plug it back in, it's going to rattle and make noise until it catches back up.

 

Nextly, do you have THE PUMP hooked up to the motherboard header or the PSU. If connected to the motherboar, go into BIOS, find the Fan settings for that particular fan header, and set them to MANUAL 100% speed, then let it run for a little while. Also set the Power options in windows to Active cool on the CPU Options in Advanced power options.