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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 194

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 54% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 45% (129)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
281 Total Votes  
post #1931 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by reaver83 View Post

Quote:

Honestly, you mistook me on the long post thing. I didn't want to MAKE a long post by using the whole post you made + mine. Sorry, I worded that wrong. My bad. I want to be very rank with everyone. When I 1st push the power button on my computer, it makes a loud rattling noise similar to what you are hearing, it happens. After the pump gets caught back up it slowly dies down and will disappear over the sound of the fans. Very similar to my common use of a fish tank pump. When you unplug it, and the water in it goes to the lowest point in the system, then plug it back in, it's going to rattle and make noise until it catches back up.

Nextly, do you have THE PUMP hooked up to the motherboard header or the PSU. If connected to the motherboar, go into BIOS, find the Fan settings for that particular fan header, and set them to MANUAL 100% speed, then let it run for a little while. Also set the Power options in windows to Active cool on the CPU Options in Advanced power options.

Alright, Understandable. tongue.gif
But the noise you are describing the 'swoosh' that stays for a few seconds or minutes, thats the normal noise of the air and water traveling through the pump. It barely last's 30 seconds and then the pump dies down with no noise at all. Thats no problem..all pumps do that, The noise I am describing comes after the pump dies down, it sounds similar to a electric shaver. "dhuuuuuurrrrrrrr dhik dhik dhurrrrrrrrrrrrr" or like when a older hdd is trying to access data. I tried everything I could, even left it running with the computer on for 12 hours overnight thinking it will auto fix itself, no recovery.

I have tried hooking it up to he motherboard CPU header(which is set to 100% in the BIOS), also have hoked it to the PSU using a molex to 3 pin connector. left it there for hours, with no sign of improvement. Its a bad pump, possibly the impaler shaft. This has happened to me many times. My friends one still works fine(bought from the same retailer)
post #1932 of 6063
Man you got some bad luck.
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My gaming desk
(14 items)
 
Miner
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-8350 ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Sapphire 290x Patriot Viper Extreme Division 4 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
OCZ Vertex 460 WD 1TB Blue Koolance 380A EK-FC R9-290X 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 64-bit Monoprice 27" IPS-Glass Pro Panel DUCKY! Antec HCP 850W 
CaseMouse
Hand built wooden desk Logitech G700S 
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AMD A10 7850K ASUS A88X-Pro Sapphire 280x Sapphire 280x 
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post #1933 of 6063

You most have found some mad earthquake victim stock where your at. I hate that your having trouble, really. Short of tearing it apart, voiding your warrantee, and fixing it yourself, I really don't know how to help you. IDK, are you sure Antec didn't accidently send you the same one back? Beleive me, it happens, WD send my Bro-In-Law the same dead Elements 1.5TB HDD 4 times. at this point, I would be requesting that THEY pay for the shipping to RMA it.

    
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post #1934 of 6063
Ya you guys are probably right, Its probably not Antecs fault but I think they have a batch of bad pumps circulating around. I actually did the exchange through my retailer and noted down the serial numbers, the first two units had the same faults, the 3rd unit I had to wait for 3 weeks for new shipment and it worked for a month or so before exhibiting the same issues. sad-smiley-002.gif maybe you guys are right, maybe I had a lot of bad luck, because my friend's 620 still works like a champ, checked on him today and its working just fine, no noises or issues. You know thats why I hate living here, these guys intentionally either sell you crap or overpriced crap from leaky houses to furniture to computer hardware, and to top it off the dishonest ungrateful people are one of the worst bunch next to OZ making life worse then living in what some people dare call a 3rd world country.Shesh, rolleyes.gif that couldn't be far from the truth.

Next time I am doing more research before moving poke.gif http://emigratetonewzealand.wordpress.com/

saves a lot of money in the long run, wink.gif
No more $1500 for a GTX680, cant wait to move biggrin.gif
Edited by TheBirdman74 - 6/7/12 at 3:29am
post #1935 of 6063
Got my 4th Replacement today guys! Guess what? It also has a crap rattling pump, biggrin.gif

I honesty think its a defective batch, I mean 4 out of 4 replacements, faulty?

Its almost unbelievable, but I got a video too this time biggrin.gif
http://www.overclock.net/t/1267255/another-faulty-antec-kuhler-pump-with-video
post #1936 of 6063
I've only had one and my 920 has never made that noise. The initial pump noise was much louder for maybe a minute and then completely subsided. I don't ever turn my PC on / off on a daily basis so I don't know if it would make that kind of a noise regularly. But it doesn't make that noise at all when running.

Not sure how you could have possibly gotten four 'bad' pumps in a row and though I realize it's absolutely possible, seems rather unlikely. Something else I would assume is the problem (take no offense).
    
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post #1937 of 6063
I turn mine on and off every day and never hear anything when starting up - only did for roughly five seconds the first time I turned it on.. The pump spinning below 3,000 RPM at 12V - Or air in the system due to the radiator being mounted upside-down can be the cause of the issue. Mounting upside down is not recommended, I work with pumps for a living and I don't care if the directions imply that it's okay to do so - don't do it especially if you hear noise in the pump. Running a "cavitating" pump can also make it sound like that permanently if it goes on for a short while... no pump is built to run dry for any period of time, not even air bubbles.
post #1938 of 6063
Urgent problem
I have-Antec Kühler H2O 920
on Motherboard GA-Z77X-d3h
And from some reason the- sound level- and the- fan speed-
did not work on Software
the -liquid temperature- and pump speed- work ok
Please help me
post #1939 of 6063
I just installed the 620 in my pc. Installed two NZXT fans for push/pull configuration, and my i5 2500k runs 32-35c in idle and 59c in Intel Burn Test (max setting). When I OC it to 4.4Ghz it idles 38-41c, and up to 68c in Intel Burn Test (max settings). Kind of dissapointed. My case is well vented (NZXT Phantom), with plenty of airflow. It's only better by 2-3c than my Hyper 212+.
post #1940 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bosniac View Post

I just installed the 620 in my pc. Installed two NZXT fans for push/pull configuration, and my i5 2500k runs 32-35c in idle and 59c in Intel Burn Test (max setting). When I OC it to 4.4Ghz it idles 38-41c, and up to 68c in Intel Burn Test (max settings). Kind of dissapointed. My case is well vented (NZXT Phantom), with plenty of airflow. It's only better by 2-3c than my Hyper 212+.

The 620 is more or less meant for "silent computing" at more or less stock clocks.. it's by no means a performance cooler, just like the Hyper 212+ is not, and the Corsair H50 is not. I suggest moving up an Antec 920 or a Corsair H80 and I think your temps and attitude on the coolers could probably be better - In fact, I promise. smile.gif
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