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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 207

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 54% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 45% (129)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
281 Total Votes  
post #2061 of 6063
i have a few (additional questions)
1) is this review represents the 620 well in real life perf?
2) Can an any 3-pin fan be used on the 3-pin connection of the 620 (and be controlled) ?
3) can i use a spliter for the fan connection?

just very intrigued lately tongue.gif
"Black & Red"
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Crucial M4 128GB SSD Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB ASUS DRW-24B3ST DVD Burner Antec Kuhler 920 
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"Black & Red"
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
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post #2062 of 6063
Well I finally had some time to take my motherboard out and check the backplate/bracket. The metal receivers didn't come of of the holes, but they warped the plastic around it. It was quite the challenge to unscrew the waterblock/pump off of the motherboard because even when I turned it in the reverse counter-clockwise direction all it would do is spin in the grove in the plastic it made. Unscrewing it required wedging a small thin flat head screwdriver in a gap in the plastic backplate while unscrewing it on the other side.

After removing the block, I realizing the backplate was unusable in its current state since the metal receiver would now spin with not too much pressure. So to fix it, I used some solder paste on the metal receiver and torched it a bit while it was in the blackplate, thus soldering the metal receivers to the plastic backplate and melting the plastic to a perfect mould around the metal receiver. The metal screw receivers definitely aren't going to move again this time. The downside is I won't be able to switch the mounting holes to LGA1366 or 775 but I figure I am never going to downgrade my CPU so no big deal. I also put some plastic washers about 2mm thick between the backplate and the motherboard to add some extra pressure when mounting the block/pump, but from my early testing it doesn't appear to have made any difference in my temperatures.

I wish Antec/Asetek would switch to a completely steel backplate like you see on the bigger air coolers out there. It would not only be more durable but it would prevent board flex as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by particleman View Post

I didn't want to take everything apart on my system to check the bottom of the motherboard, but upon researching the issue further, I think the reason why my screws turn endlessly is because the metal receivers came out of their plastic locks and rubbed away at them. This isn't a photo of my install but from a post on another forum of someone else who has the intel water cooling kit which is also made by asetek and uses the same mounting mechanism.
sany0159.jpg
http://forum.notebookreview.com/off-topic/639238-desktop-computer-discussion-lounge-64.html
Apparently it is not a problem if it is already mounted since the screws are already in and tightened, so I will just leave it as is. But if I ever want to remount the block, I think I will need to superglue the metal receivers in place.
post #2063 of 6063
Hi guys, quick question for the more experienced folks here:

I have an Antec p280 case with a Kuhler 920 mounted as exhaust in the rear 120mm fan spot. I was thinking about switching it to intake to see if I can get a boost to my cpu cooling. I figure the air will be cooler coming in from the outside, and the hot air coming into the case will exhaust out the 2 top 120mm exhaust fans. I figure the downside may be slightly increased case temps, but i do have intake fans in the front bringing in air as well. Any serious downsides to this setup? I will also be placing an intake filter in the back if i do this.
Sabertooth
(15 items)
 
  
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Intel Core i5 2500K SABERTOOTH Z77 Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Corsair Vengeance 1600 16gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
OCZ Vertex 3 128gb SSD Seagate Baraccuda 1.5 TB storage drive Some old dvd RW drive Antec Kuhler 920 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8 Professional Dell U2412M OCN Ducky keyboard - Cherry MX Blue OCZ ZX 850W modular 
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Sabertooth
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Intel Core i5 2500K SABERTOOTH Z77 Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Corsair Vengeance 1600 16gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
OCZ Vertex 3 128gb SSD Seagate Baraccuda 1.5 TB storage drive Some old dvd RW drive Antec Kuhler 920 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8 Professional Dell U2412M OCN Ducky keyboard - Cherry MX Blue OCZ ZX 850W modular 
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post #2064 of 6063
No, thats a decent way to do it :-) Your system temp should not increase mutch if any at all. Tips, more fans pushing air into the case than fans pulling it out.
post #2065 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkStar99 View Post

Hi guys, quick question for the more experienced folks here:
I have an Antec p280 case with a Kuhler 920 mounted as exhaust in the rear 120mm fan spot. I was thinking about switching it to intake to see if I can get a boost to my cpu cooling. I figure the air will be cooler coming in from the outside, and the hot air coming into the case will exhaust out the 2 top 120mm exhaust fans. I figure the downside may be slightly increased case temps, but i do have intake fans in the front bringing in air as well. Any serious downsides to this setup? I will also be placing an intake filter in the back if i do this.

In general if you want to improve temps you should go for massive positive pressure with many fans pulling cool air in and good airflow. With this method you won't even need exhaust fans. The air will just be exhausted naturally. Search this site for Ehume. He has a very good write-up about it.
post #2066 of 6063
Thanks guys! I'll give it a try after I grab some slightly longer screws...just fit when I installed so I'm sure the fan filter will make them too shortt
Sabertooth
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500K SABERTOOTH Z77 Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Corsair Vengeance 1600 16gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
OCZ Vertex 3 128gb SSD Seagate Baraccuda 1.5 TB storage drive Some old dvd RW drive Antec Kuhler 920 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8 Professional Dell U2412M OCN Ducky keyboard - Cherry MX Blue OCZ ZX 850W modular 
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Sabertooth
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Intel Core i5 2500K SABERTOOTH Z77 Gigabyte NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Corsair Vengeance 1600 16gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
OCZ Vertex 3 128gb SSD Seagate Baraccuda 1.5 TB storage drive Some old dvd RW drive Antec Kuhler 920 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8 Professional Dell U2412M OCN Ducky keyboard - Cherry MX Blue OCZ ZX 850W modular 
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post #2067 of 6063
Lets say you have a one of the rattly/grinding pumps, does that have any affect on pump life span?
    
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
[Western Digital WD10EALS] [Samsung 840 Evo 250GB] [Western Digitan WD10EZEX] [Lite-On iHAS-524-B] 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
[Custom Loop - Twin 360mm Rads] [Windows 8.1 Pro x64] [Samsung Syncmaster BX2450] [Logitech G510] 
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post #2068 of 6063
Heh, you guys were definitely diligent alright, and went down a proper troubleshooting path - well done.

I admit I was not as diligent and had not read all the preceding posts...

Upon further review, I can see how a bad batch of pumps made it out the door, and it comes down to just bad luck/timing that you keep getting units issued from that batch! frown.gif

I got my 920 via Newegg, was a 24hr only deal, great price, very pleased. My unit has been working perfectly since installation - I'm quite impressed. I used Arctic 5 Silver and swapped out the stock Antec fans for a couple Cougar PWMs. I also added an Akasa PWM splitter adapter, to take the 12V load from the fans off the mobo: h ttp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/akpwmsimocaa.html

This setup totally rocks. Quiet, nice low temps, perfect for my application. Highly recommended.



.
post #2069 of 6063
yes yes i understand its a closed loop system how ever in my case and if you had indeed read my other posts i had to mount the rad, on the back outside of my case only way to do so was to take the hoses off the pump and in doing so lost alil bit of liquid not enough to worry about though, and as of yet i have still (knock on wood) have not had any issues in cooling, again ive dropped my temps even more since i last posted its still running cherry with no issues
post #2070 of 6063
Hum. I just changed on my settup. I put the pump into powerfan (pwr fan) or what ever it is called, it gives full power ( not to mutch I hope?? )to my pump so it runs around 1400rpm. Then i put the stock fan into the cpu fan and another fan into system fan, in push / pull. In bios I set system and cpu fans to auto. Almost the same temps as before but waaaay mutch more silent when playing games like bf3, civ 5, arma2 etc. No point in using the fan on 1400-2000rpm when your cpu are so little oc as mine are. When stresstesting the fan doesnt start to make high sound before socket is at 50, witch I never are unless stresstesting.

Using push pull whit fans on "half speed" is as good as stock fan on full but as sayed way more silent:-)

A question: Using pwr fan on pump, its ok? Or can i put to mutch power into it this way? Bios reports the pump running on 1400rpm so it seems fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AddictedGamer93 View Post

Lets say you have a one of the rattly/grinding pumps, does that have any affect on pump life span?

Well, that depends on what are making the sound, doesn't it? But I would belive that it will shorten the lifespan on the pump... Any who has an answer to this? Im curious about it myself, knowlege knowlege knowlege wink.gif
Edited by ruarcs30 - 7/16/12 at 2:52am
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